12.5 kawi

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by JRS Landscaping, Jan 11, 2007.

  1. JRS Landscaping

    JRS Landscaping LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 817

    i have a 12.5 kawi engine on an older exmark (really good cond) i think its the fb460. its a single cylander and i only use it on a few yards a week and its always a pain to start and the flywheel rusts from sitting . its stored inside a shed and is never left out in the elements. any ideas on how to keep the fly wheel from re-rusting again and tips to make it start easyer .

    ps tryed wd 40

    thanks -justin
  2. Total.Lawn.Care

    Total.Lawn.Care LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 840

    I have the same problem. I checnged my spark plug recently and that helped little. But it is strange, to get it to start, I have to remove the air box from the top of the carb, get it started and then put the airbox back on. I have no idea why this makes such a difference, but it does seem to.

    I have been looking for a good answer as to why this engine is so hard to start. It was not like this when I got it about 6 months ago. It started between 1-3 pulls most all of the time.
  3. mohopper

    mohopper LawnSite Member
    Messages: 14

    the kaws are notorious for the choke not opening up all the way.
  4. MowerMedic77

    MowerMedic77 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,164

    W asted D ollars 40 SUX
    Try Fluid Film:)
  5. Total.Lawn.Care

    Total.Lawn.Care LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 840

    So, you think it just needs a good carb cleaning?
  6. mohopper

    mohopper LawnSite Member
    Messages: 14

    when you push the throttle lever all the way to choke, it still may not be closing the butterfly enough. that part is usually a simple cable adjustment. a good carb cleaning can be a tremendous help sometimes also.
  7. hotrodsnapper

    hotrodsnapper LawnSite Member
    Messages: 85

    It might also pay to check valve adjustment, but to answer your question:

    I'd pull the flywheel and clean the heck out of it with a wire brush, then apply some paint or rustproofing to the worse areas.

    just my 2/100 of a buck
  8. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Gotta agree.... [​IMG]

    Also spray throttle cables, Throttle control boxes and linkages for ease of movement.

    As mohopper said check for a FULLY closed choke butterfly, Kawi's like full choke for ease of starting.
  9. Jay Ray

    Jay Ray LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,510

    I have an FB460V that was hard to start when I bought it. It has the throttle and choke controlled by one cable.

    There is a 4mm diameter adjustment screw in plain sight down near the control plate and governor arm. This screw controls how much choke it gets when the throttle lever up on the handlebar dash is pushed to full choke.

    Just had a feeling it needed more choke even with the screw adjusted all the way in (in a forward direction on my wb). I found a local hardware that had the metric screw about 3/4 inch longer than the screw it came with.

    It's been a couple years, but I think it needed about 1/4 inch more as compared to the old screw when adjusted fully in -- and with the additional choke it became a one or two pull motor, and it still is.

    I don't know what EPA might have to say about this modification, but after the pull and start, I reach up and get it off of choke really fast.

    It was an easy fix for cheap. Might be worth a try.
  10. Jay Ray

    Jay Ray LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,510

    I'm remembering more now. The rpm's were at spec with the throttle lever in the fast speed notch, and it ran beautiful once it started. I didn't want to mess with the cable adjustment.

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