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Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by clif, May 19, 2010.
Thanks I'll give it a shot!
Chris, if I'm not mistaken, all the engines operate at 3600rpm, which is suppose to be the "peak" operating efficiency for the pumps according to the manual. I don't think the pumps would be harmed even if you dropped in a 31hp kawasaki since they're still going 3600rpm. The extra hp will keeps your pumps at 3600rpm and not drop down as much when you are mowing the tall stuff. I noticed my pumps are more efficient when I take off from a stop, used to be when my pto switch was engaged and I take off fast, it would take a little dip in rpm for just a split second, now it doesn't even do that. The pumps "feel" more powerful, probably because I have more power available and they are constantly running a peak power, (i guess!). The top end ground speed seems the same though, but seems to accelerate more quickly now, which I like!!!! I think wheel motors are the same on the super mini z, I think the bigger pumps on that one move more hydraulic fluid faster to the wheel motors, turning them faster, translating to more speed.
The valve assy #49116-7001 is NOT needed, underpsi was correct. All it is is a plastic oil drain tube, why would I need this I have a steel one!! lol - Just FYI don't order it unless you don't have the drain tube, save your six bucks and go to Whataburger!
So did you ever get the throttle issue figured out?
On another note, if you didn't do this before I'd seriously consider engaging blades just above idle. Not sure how much extra wear this mod would impose on the blade clutch.
I think I might have a solution, just didn't have time left to try it out. Maybe this weekend after work, and if my help shows up, I might get it straight. I got a reply from someone on another site, this guy hops up these kawasakis and races them... he said:
"Cliff, you need to re-synchronize the governor with the throttle shaft. Loosen the bolt on the shaft, hold the throttle shaft to wide open and at the same time turn the governor shaft the same direction until it stops, then tighten the clamping bolt back up. This way when the governor will move the throttle as it needs to to adjust the rpm."
So I will have to remove the muffler again, and remove the exhaust pipe shielding and the control plate to be able to access what he's talking about. Sounds like this is my problem.
About the clutch, I can't remember what the ft/lbs rating is on mine, but if I could find that out as well as the super mini z's, if the two are the same it shouldn't be a problem I wouldn't think. I think the two mowers' part numbers for the clutches were the same when I looked... The super mini z used to come with the 25 hp kawasaki or 24 hp honda.
What is this other racing site? I have two Standers that could use a little more from their Kaw's. Tall grass in the spring!!!
They hop up mowers and take the blades off and race them. The guy to talk to for kawasaki engines is supposed to be Jayson Mikula. I joined the site just to ask him about my rpm issue. I think he makes custom aluminum flywheels and stuff for them too. He has his engine revving really fast he says like 6000 rpm, don't know if I want to try that mowing though, and don't know what he has done to the engines - lol
If you don't mind asking him why the governor would need to be re-synchronized? Would the small difference in throttle shafts cause this problem? I've disassembled my carb. twice and have never had an idle issue or had to make any adjustments afterwards. Don't take my statement the wrong way as I'm not trying to say he's wrong but I'm just curious for an education sake.
When I post pictures some questions may get answered, but comparing the two throttle shafts closely, it looks like the position of the cable linkage hole is at a different angle when both are aligned to the full open position. So if I had to guess this is what is messing up the governor.
^Ahhh, okay, makes sense.