2" or 2 1/2" pavement

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by lzrj, Aug 18, 2006.

  1. lzrj

    lzrj LawnSite Member
    Messages: 245

    For you guys that know something about asphalt. I was given bids for a driveway. One company quoted $3,975 for a 2" lay and another gave a bid of $4,325 for a 2 1/2" lay. Is the half inch worth the extra $300 or will there really be no difference in it if the base is done right. Both are known for quality work in our area.
  2. Scag48

    Scag48 LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,067

    It's only about an 8% increase in cost for an investment that will be installed for years. Honestly, I don't know if the extra 1/2" will help, but it sure won't hurt.
  3. tylermckee

    tylermckee LawnSite Member
    from wa
    Messages: 248

    I think for a driveway 2" will be fine, assuming your sub base is good. If your sub base isnt solid you could put down 6" of asphalt and it will still crack and break. 2" is bare ass minimum for parking lots, roads, etc, (around here at least, it usually 3" crushed then 3" asphalt) and they will usually see more traffic in a day than your driveway will all year.
  4. Gravel Rat

    Gravel Rat LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,544

    Talk about chinsy with the pavement I wouldn't drive a heavy truck on 2"s of pavement. I would find a company that will lay it down atleast 3"s thick or go with concrete or paving stones.
  5. lzrj

    lzrj LawnSite Member
    Messages: 245

    going to 3" jacks the cost up another thousand. I would like to do concrete to match the apren pad outside the garage but that doubles the price. I just didn't know if the extra 1/2" will make any difference at all in the long term. If it dosent, that extra $300 will let me go out and buy a power washer.
  6. SLSNursery

    SLSNursery LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 442

    You should find out if that is before or after compaction (rolling). 2 1/2" after compaction is not so bad for a driveway based on what I've seen in our area. Too thick and I'd be afraid that the average driveway paver doesn't have the compaction equipment to do the job correctly and you'll end up with mushy asphalt.

    As I side note for quality control, I can usually find out if it is compacted enough and if the base was good as I back the triaxle in to deliver a load of soil so the homeowner can backfill the edges!!!:laugh:
  7. ksss

    ksss LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,157

    If you want to make your asphalt contractor sh!t himself, hire engineers to do a nuke compaction test on the subgrade and asphalt. Let the asphalt guy know that nothing that doesn't meet density specs will be accepted. Around here they are about $75 dollars per test. When it comes asphalt and concrete few things are as important as the subbase. I watch these small fly by night paver guys come into town with their fancy trucks and these ity bitty rollers. They use them because it helps them keep the weight low on their packed trailers but they are not worth much more than a plate compactor. I would want to tell him before he starts the job what your plans are.
  8. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,794

    I have to agree with Kiaser about the subbase being the most imporant part. Asphalt has very little strength, so you could have 10" of asphalt and it would still pothole all up if the base is crap.

    Concrete on the other hand, with enough bar, is really not picky at all (at least in my climate) about base. We used to just dig down, throw 2" of clean uncompacted gravel down and pour.
  9. ksss

    ksss LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,157

    Concrete with rebar and tied into a foundation that maybe true. Concrete however requires a well compacted uniform base to achieve max strength under load. According to what I have read on the subject, concrete spread loads it weight across a large area transfering its load through out the pad thus reguiring solid compaction to keep from breaking down. Concrete that is supported by rebar may not be as critical. However with the costs of rebar these days it maybe cheaper to just do a good job on the prep. All the State jobs that I have been on that required concrete prep were always checked with a density tester before they would allow the concrete to be poured. I can only assume that it is for a purpose.
  10. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,794

    Perhaps the contractor I worked for back in the day was sketchy, I don't know. He had a great reputation.

    We would compact fill dirt with a jumping jack, but usually for foundation footings we would just pour directly on the native soil, or a few inches of rock, per engineers specs.

    We don't have frost heave up here (Super mild winters), so perhaps thats the difference.

    On slabs, we would use a fibermix in the concrete, and lay out wiremesh and rebar. Again, we only compacted if fill was brought in.

    The guy had been doing it for 28 years so if concrete was breaking up everywhere he would probably know by now.

    The only time I would consider compacting a base before concrete would be in a high traffic road.

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