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2006 Ford F350 Diesel Tire Wear - Front

6K views 37 replies 10 participants last post by  BigJlittleC 
#1 ·
The truck was in a wreck where a trailer going across the front caught one of the two hocks and bent frame about 3". Patched it up adjusted toe in and kept using it since it drove okay. Now I got bad wear on tire. Is there an camber adjustment on these Fords?

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Need some suggestions on where to start. Trying to keep it going until Jan when we got more time. I plan to put it on jacks this weekend and check for any obvious wear.
 
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#7 ·
You need an alignment shop to tell you which one you need. And after that toe will have to be adjusted. There’s a bolt through it and the sleeve pops out with an air hammer

I bet you need ball joints. And bearings probably loose. Wouldn’t surprise me if something else is bent.
 
#15 ·
I think your going at this one all wrong. Buy a cheap ass tire to get you to the winter when your slower. Its only about a month away. Then take the truck to a frame shop and get the frame checked and straightened. Don't be surprised if they tell you it cant be fixed. If the frame cant be fixed, total the truck and don't put employees in it any more. God forbid something happens and someone gets hurt, that faulty frame will hang you. Personally, that truck would be grounded until it was checked if it was in my fleet. Rentals are not that expensive. If the frame can be fixed then get a proper alignment. Never align to compensate for damage. Best of luck.
 
#16 ·
also check the ball joints and radius rod bushings before you take it apart as they are known to wear out quickly fro the no grease fitting , for stuff like this find a real truck shop ( deals with bigger trucks ) most small auto based guys do not have to the tools or knowledge to work on them .
as for the frame bend if the frame was bent bad it would show up on the other side because of the twin I beam mounting points more than likely just the frame horn was bent .
 
#17 ·
also check the ball joints and radius rod bushings before you take it apart as they are known to wear out quickly fro the no grease fitting , for stuff like this find a real truck shop ( deals with bigger trucks ) most small auto based guys do not have to the tools or knowledge to work on them .
as for the frame bend if the frame was bent bad it would show up on the other side because of the twin I beam mounting points more than likely just the frame horn was bent .
Yeah and shop can do those. I made thousands and thousands of dollars off those front ends. They're nothing special.

And I agree he probably has loose ball joints and possibly bearings.
 
#19 ·
yep , but some shops can do it for less , if you take them the truck with the front end parts removed , the labor to remove parts adds up quick . but that truck if you watched the front tire changed position as he pulled the frame rail and the 150s are not as stout as as the 350 frames in the front .
 
#26 ·
Plow bend??? Never seen that before. What kind of trucks? I only ever had one frame damaged from a plow and that was a F550 that hit a wall at highway speeds due to a T-bone accident. Other car pushed our truck into the wall. Truck was totaled due to damage and over 200+k miles. But our trucks have never had any other frame damage. Also living in New Jersey, we don't get the winters that some other places do get so maybe that has something to do with it.
you do not notice it , but as a mechanic and metal banger I see it quiet often ( tire wear and body lines ) , plow bend is when the frame shifts from plowing to the right or left excessively or hitting a curb hard with the blade banked ,plowing at high speeds ( faster than 20 mph ) it puts a lot of pressure to the side of the plow mounting as its not fixed .( look at a larger Municiple plow truck mount head . its braced big time )
the new trucks its not as pronounced as they now weld the cross braces to the frame and more and more are box frames with round tube cross bracing , but on the older ones which were riveted together or a frame that is not up to snuff ( a 1/2 ton non HD or non oem plow package ) or using a plow thats too big for the truck , high plow speeds or excessive bank bucking , the frame will shift 1/16th or more to one side , the gaps in the hood or door/fender gap , and cab/box will have a slight misalignment ,these are the give away as one side will get tighter and the other will open up , cab and box mounts will be off center or twisted in the steel , bolts are hard to remove or insert
, on some of the pick ups with plow packages you can sometimes find brackets/bracing already welded or bolted in under the truck .
F-150s non Sd and rams ( common pauly plowboy quick buck truck ) we would get them in were the passenger side door when you would open it would eat the fender rear edge or get stuck closed , hoods get stuck , cracked winsheilds ( starting on the lower right side ) , a quite common thing , tires wearing funny , trucks handle funny , all because the frame and driveline out of wack . some you can see the axles not alligned they were beat that bad .
 
#27 ·
Haven't hunted for shop had to pull dump ram to repack. Here is couple shots showing movement. Passenger side horn hit. Toe in off and I adjusted it. Drives fine except steering wheel off.

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Radiator not hurt one of ac connections cracked had to put in new. Hood latch readjusted it works.
 
#32 ·
Easy way to check is to raise the front end from below the spring perch until the tire is around 4" off the ground. Then take a long pry bar and slip it under the tire from the outside and lift straight up on it. If there is any play in the ball joints, you will be able to see the wheel move. Having someone else work the bar (while you crawl in where you can see) helps. If one is bad, you might as well replace both.
 
#35 ·
BIg little c knows the drill, you watch the base of the ball joint where the stud go's into it for movement besides up and down also try wiggling the tire side to side or in and out as it will show movement , ( on the fords and dodges with the diesels if it wasn't a greaseable unit we basically replaced them at 75K miles with good ones ( we just used moog greaseables ) , and use a good lithium/moly EP grease , NOT straight all purpose bearing grease , the EP its suited for the high pressure the ball cup bearing surface sees ( I prefer mobil XHP222 special , grade 2 ) as its lithium based with moly ( its gray black ) , we use it on king pins on semis and ball joint trucks and it holds up extemely well . ( I buy it in a 10 pack tube box for $50 at my oil distributor )

be carefull as there is a mobil XHP 222 thats non moly ( its dark blue )

and grease them up after installing them and before putting the tire on and setting it down as it will fill all the spaces in joint , specaily the ball /cup area and when we service trucks we jack up the front end to take the weight off the joint and open up any clearances to get better coverage and clean out of the old grease . ( and wipe off the zerk before greasing it )

as for the bend ,
from the looks its mostly sheetmetal damage and bent horn when it was hit and pushed the toe could have been knocked out by the slide motion on the tire ( when the tire is still it doesn't take much as the tire is grabbing the pavement hard ) , when your under there look for any cracks with a light cinnamon powder looking rust around them , thats a sign of frame movement or new damage . and check the sway bar mounts too . sometimes the bolts shear in them but do not drop out as the threads might have bit into the clamp .
 
#37 ·
The truck was in a wreck where a trailer going across the front caught one of the two hocks and bent frame about 3". Patched it up adjusted toe in and kept using it since it drove okay. Now I got bad wear on tire. Is there an camber adjustment on these Fords?

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Need some suggestions on where to start. Trying to keep it going until Jan when we got more time. I plan to put it on jacks this weekend and check for any obvious wear.
Did a little bumper work on Mad Max...;)

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Didn' turn out bad......passed inspection so we are good for a few more miles. Transmission not shifting easy under max load.

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Could tweek that hood over ......but it is latching good ....if it ain't broke
 
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