22hp Kawasaki issue on JD z810A

FIRESCOOBY

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Cleveland Ga
The mower will start and run fine for about 10-15 minutes, then slowly gets weaker and eventually the RPM's will fall and barely cut and die if put under any load.

It has a new fuel filter, wondering if this sounds like a fuel pump issue? Only run ethanol free gas.
 

flintknapper

LawnSite Senior Member
The mower will start and run fine for about 10-15 minutes, then slowly gets weaker and eventually the RPM's will fall and barely cut and die if put under any load.

It has a new fuel filter, wondering if this sounds like a fuel pump issue? Only run ethanol free gas.
Possible fuel pump issue....but generally they don't cause time related or intermittent problems. You didn't identify the model/series engine you have (only hp), but I'm guessing you have a pulse operated fuel pump?

IF so....there are a number of tests and checks you can perform to assess the fuel pump.

Another common issue related to the symptoms you describe is a venting problem at the fuel tank (usually the cap). If the tank can't vent...or is partially restricted....fuel starvation will occur.

Then there is the possibility you could have a coil that is heat soaking (weak coil) and dropping out as the unit heats up.
 
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flintknapper

LawnSite Senior Member
Just went out and looked and the tag says FH661V
OK FH series....so definitely has the Kaw pulse operated fuel pump.

While I don't think the pump is your issue...it won't hurt to check it. On the back of the pump is a sintered bronze filter (if original). Check to be sure this isn't covered in debris and is clean to the look. If it is dirty/clogged then use a soft brush (old toothbrush) and some carb cleaner to rejuvenate it.

You can also check the fuel lines going to and from the tank. BE CAREFUL doing this. Don't do it with a hot engine or with any source of flame or spark present or possible.

If your fuel tank has a shut-off valve...then shut the fuel off. Disconnect the fuel line (inlet) to the pump. Have a cup or other container handy. See if fuel from the tank will gravity feed though the line with the valve open. Next... reconnect the line and disconnect the discharge line (going to your carb). Crank the engine for just a SHORT period and watch to see that you have fuel spurting from that line (catch it in a container).

IF you do have fuel....then your pump is probably O.K., if you don't...or have very little fuel, then remove the pulse line on the back check to see if you have oil in it or the fuel pump.

But I would first check to be sure your fuel tank is venting properly. You don't have any kinks in fuel lines and that they are not laying up against anything hot that would cause vapor lock in the lines.

KAW fuel pump.jpg
 
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FIRESCOOBY

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Cleveland Ga
I took the tank cap off and blew air through vent. Had a fuel shut off valve on and took it off completely.

No change with those changes.
 

flintknapper

LawnSite Senior Member
I took the tank cap off and blew air through vent. Had a fuel shut off valve on and took it off completely.

No change with those changes.
Good move, so we can eliminate tank venting and obstruction in the inlet fuel line as possibilities. I would move on the fuel pump test (remove discharge line and see if you have fuel being expelled when cranking the engine).

If you do...then we can dispense with the notion the fuel pump itself is the problem, but not fuel delivery just yet...as the next stop is the Carburetor.

It is not out of the realm of possibilities that spark is the problem...also, but one thing at a time. (kawasaki coils are a known weak point).
 
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FIRESCOOBY

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Cleveland Ga
So I ended up taking in to a shop. He called earlier this week and said that it was "electrical" and had ordered parts. Today he called and said he got that problem fixed, but it's still bogging down when blades are engaged and that one cylinder is making a lot of noise and down on compression.

Was running fine other than the original issue prior.

So, recommendations for motor replacement or rebuilding?
 

ARN Greencare

LawnSite Senior Member
How is he measuring compression? This engine model usually has a compression release which will cause a bad compression reading.

Valve clearance needs to be checked, this reveal "the noise," whether it be valve way out of spec, bent push rod, rocker arm etc., this can be diagnosed by removing the valve cover and checking the valve train.

If compression is down, a valve job can possibly fix the issue rather than an entire engine.

Need to find "the noise" and get this thing diagnosed properly before condemning what could be a very usable engine...
 
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FIRESCOOBY

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Cleveland Ga
How is he measuring compression? This engine model usually has a compression release which will cause a bad compression reading.

Valve clearance needs to be checked, this reveal "the noise," whether it be valve way out of spec, bent push rod, rocker arm etc., this can be diagnosed by removing the valve cover and checking the valve train.

If compression is down, a valve job can possibly fix the issue rather than an entire engine.

Need to find "the noise" and get this thing diagnosed properly before condemning what could be a very usable engine...
Thanks for the information. He won't be back in until mid week and hope to find out more. Kawasaki is NO help whatsoever!
 

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