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23 hp Kawaski hard to start - flooded?

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by southerngroundscare, Jun 8, 2004.

  1. southerngroundscare

    southerngroundscare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 22

    My 23 hp Kawaski on a 52" Wright Stander is hard to start. Looking down into the carb you can see gas filling up in the bowl. After cranking for about 30-45 seconds it will start popping and then it will fire with black smoke out the exhaust. It will then smooth out and run fine. Once I turn it off and try to start it all happens again. If I install new RN11YC4 plugs it will start fine for about two cranks and then hard to start again. Removed and cleaned the carb several times. ANYONE?
  2. wriken

    wriken LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,154

    I would take it to a shop, sounds like a float problem.
  3. southerngroundscare

    southerngroundscare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 22

    Yea I suspected it was the float but it sorta puzzled me that it happened all the sudden if it is the float. So now my question is if it is the float what do I do. Remove the float and bend/adjust the float to lower the fuel level??? And do I need to make any other adjustments to compensate for the different fuel level???
  4. Mikes Machines

    Mikes Machines LawnSite Member
    Messages: 112

    Floats dont go bad that often, but it is not impossible. I would suspect dirt in the needle that the float pushes on. A clogged carb bowl vent can cause problems also. Regardless the carb will need to come apart so check all of the above while you're there
  5. southerngroundscare

    southerngroundscare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 22

    Do I push the pin out to remove the float to gain access to the needle valve. And then do I just unscrew the needle valve to clean it. Any fine tuning adjustements to worry about.

    I can fix most problems just can't diagnose them.

    Thanks for your help.
  6. Mikes Machines

    Mikes Machines LawnSite Member
    Messages: 112

    Yes you push the float pivot pin out. Sometimes the float needle is attached to the float with a fine wire clip. The needle will just lift out. The brass seat can stay with the carb. Make sure there is no dirt in the fuel line or the seat area. You can put the fuel line on and hold the carb in your hand with the bowl off and move the float up and down to make sure the fuel flow is shutting off. On most carbs the float adjustment is correct when the float is parrallel to the carb body
  7. Mr Dane

    Mr Dane LawnSite Member
    Messages: 27

    go to 25hp problems i have posted a reply to him that will help you out too i think
  8. southerngroundscare

    southerngroundscare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 22

    I replaced both coils and plugs. Cleaned the carb and replaced the float, float valve, and gaskets. Still hard to start and will turn the plugs very black after a couple hours of run time.
  9. beransfixitinc

    beransfixitinc LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 592

    Most likely because you are running too rich. Not sure how old your engine is, but if you believe you can do it without messing up anything ((only reason I state this, is because we ARE a repair shop, Briggs/(soon to be Kohler and Kawasaki) and more than half of the major engine problems that come in here are caused by people that tried to fix the stuff themselves without really knowing the proper settings, and specs and then they put it all back together and really screw it up good, this costs much more to fix than if they had just brought it in in the first place)) you could remove the heads and check for large amounts of carbon buildup. It really sounds like you are running rich and you will need to fix that problem first of all.
    I'm not sure, but the seat may be a pressed in brass seat and could be pitted, not allowing the needle to properly shut off the flow of fuel. Or, your float could have a small hole or crack allowing it to fill up with fuel and making it too heavy to be lifted to shut off the supply.

    Save yourself some time and take it in to the people that know what they are doing and make their living doing it.
  10. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,098

    I too work in a small engine shop. I am a MST for Briggs and go to all the update schools. I agree with you 110%. I would have to say half to 3/4 of the work I do is "unfixing" what the owners tried to fix them self. Take just this week, a man has a bad solenoid and starts cutting and splicing wires trying to get it to run. So instand of a $10 solenoid he now gets a $110 wiring harness plus labor. I have seen people take a hammer and beat a starter to death thanking that will fix a dead battery. I just ordered a $127 starter for a Kohler because of that. I have even seen someone take a carb apart because a motor would not start and it turn out to be out of gas was the reason it did not start.

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