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30 W oil...your preference and why?

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by GarPA, Sep 1, 2003.

  1. mosynthetics

    mosynthetics LawnSite Member
    Messages: 26

    I don't think AMSOIL buys their base from Mobil. Mobil 1 is a type 3 "refined petro" synthetic and AMSOIL is a type 4 pure synthetic.

    In addition, this link shows a comparison of Mobil 1 and AMSOIL. The Mobil 1 test is complete and AMSOIL just started so you can not compare long term results.


    The study shows there were stark differences from testing on the initial pour from the bottle. So, I don't think they are similar. Also, AMSOIL has a recommended service interval of 25,000 miles or 1 year with a filter chg mid point on their engine oils - Mobil1 does not do this.

    Both oils meet specific needs and both have strengths and weaknesses.
  2. lawnchopper

    lawnchopper LawnSite Member
    Messages: 211

    acually I think Kohler recomends 10w-30 for all there engines and they are really picky with that from what I was told by a dealer
  3. GarPA

    GarPA LawnSite Silver Member
    from PA
    Messages: 2,585

    with these cold temps I needed to change the oil in one of my Honda single stage snow machines today. Decided to just stop in to my autp parts store and get a quart of syn 5/30.

    I didnt know that Pennzoil made a "100% pure synthetic" oil ...but there it was on the shelf. Maybe its not really 100% but thats what the label says.

    (Barry...I'll be in touch with you soon..and thanks)
  4. BCM

    BCM LawnSite Member
    Male, from Missouri
    Messages: 129

    I use only OPTI-4 theres nothing better

    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,426

    We run nothing but Valvoline in all our equipment, and race cars. All equipment is on a strict maintenance program, and we have had three trucks run well over a half million miles on original engines.

    I just follow the advice of our race teams engine rebuilder, and everyone he knows in his cirlces runs Valvoline, even those who are sponsored by other oil companies. The engine builders usually dictate what goes in the crankcase and if the crew chief knows what he is doing, they listen and trust that pro in his field.

    Fas as one oil or the other in anything, I feel so long as an oil is a premium blend, one that has a proven track record, and it and the filtration system are serviced when they need to be, you will be fine with most of the oils out there.

    Notice I say serviced... Most engine manufacturers give suggested guidelines for when to change oils in thier manuals. What that equates to is someone looking at the numbers, like for example, Kohler says to change every 100 hours....Then you look at the fine print underneath and it says for this condition, change every 50 hours, or for that conditon change every 25 hours.

    What really should occur here, is the oil manufacturer should reccomend when his oil needs changing based upon the use of your equipment.

    People see that 100 hour mark and just assume that you need to change oil every 100 hours...Not so. Our industry is what could be called extreme conditions. So, the oil and filters should be changed more often. Also, for more longevity, I would install oil coolers on all pressurized crankcases. Keeping the oil cool and slowing the time it breaks down wins races and saves engines.

    I am not really quite sure what the thing is with manufacturers not wanting synthetic oils in air cooled engines. I have run synthetics in a souped up Kohler and in a 22hp Onan we have in our brick saw for years, and not had an issue. When we tear them down for inspection, there is less wear, less scoring, less everything. Tolerances are to spec, not over spec as with mineral based oils I have used in the past.

    We run Valvoline SynPower, an all synthetic in my daughters 1/4 midget it has a 5.5hp Honda and the engine has run hard for 3 seasons. We open the crankcase, inspect it, ut it back together and the juge seals it every season. No issues. We also run Valvoline SynPower in my Legends car, it has an 1100 cc Yamaha engine, 14000 RPM and 140 MPH at Perris speedway, run now 2 seasons and no issues. As we get ready for this season, we are replacing rings, pistons and walls had no scoring, no anything.

    This is a very interesting thread to me. To see how far oils have come from the days of the lake racer when they used old airplane fuel tanks for bodies, until now when corporations have entered into the scene...Oils have come a long way, and I love to learn more as we go.
  6. metro-hp_48

    metro-hp_48 LawnSite Senior Member
    from TN
    Messages: 874

  7. greendave

    greendave LawnSite Member
    Messages: 219

    NEVER EVER EVER should you put 20w50 in a late model automobile unless the specs call for it (Mercedes might be one), especially if it has overhead cams. 20w50 is too thick and will not pump up to the top of the engine fast enough. You will score the cam journals due to oil starvation. Today's engine have VERY close tolerances. I have seen the destruction of MANY Ford 4.6 engines, not to mention other Jap engines that have been ruined by the use of the wrong oil. Use what the manufacturers recommend!!!!!! The engineers know what they're doing (at least here)
  8. burnandreturn

    burnandreturn LawnSite Senior Member
    Male, from Germany
    Messages: 303

    The tech reps at Kohler told me to run synthetic oil. I use Synergyn synthetic. It has an oil additive that keeps internal engine temps down. I also run it in my hydraulic system's. heavier wieght of course. I compared the oil temp's of the crankcase oil and hydraulic oil of different oils. Synergyn was by far the lowest temps. (Of the oil I tested)

    Air filtration is as much or more of a factor in engine life. And that's not just my opinion. We use Donaldson air filters in conjunction with the engine air filters. Clean them everyday. Change the oil VERY often and have no problems anymore. Blew alot of engines in the past!!!!
  9. burnandreturn

    burnandreturn LawnSite Senior Member
    Male, from Germany
    Messages: 303

    Also thicker wieght oil robs engine power. Ask any auto racing team mechanic. An oil additive that "thickens" the oil is going to cause problems. Many people put a product such as "lucas" in their engine oil when it starts to burn oil. You see this alot in big diesel truck engines. This causes problems in several area's. The engine might not "burn" as much oil and then they think they have solved a problem, when if fact they have lit the fuse on a time bomb. The thick oil robs horsepower and starves critical area's of oil, leading to premature engine failure. Kinda like trying to get peanut butter into small area's.

    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,426

    There was a time when Kohler specifically wrote, and I have one of those manuals, that said using synthetic oils is not recommended and will void the warrantee...Now, technologies have changed, and my guess is they have as well. I agree with the air cleaner issues....We have pre cleaners on all the equipment...

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