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48" Turf Tracer Electric Start Install help

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Snyderserv5060, Mar 6, 2007.

  1. Snyderserv5060

    Snyderserv5060 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 194

    Ive searched around a good bit and ive printed out multiple wiring diagrams.

    The unit is a 48" Turf Tracer which came origionally with the FH500V(17hp) just recoil start. I just replaced the engine and opted to go with the FH500V set up for recoil start and with the electric starter and alternator. The new engine is installed and running so set one is taken care of. I ordered what I think is all the needed electric start specific parts for the install.
    Battery tray
    Wire (misc)
    Starter Solenoid
    Key switch (off-on-start)

    At this point I worked on it for a few hours, read the wiring diagrams for the 48" mowers, the mowers with similar 19hp engines (electric start) and around the net. The exmark wiring diagrams are not super specific with respect to which wires go where on the solenoid. I know the (+)battery wire goes to the solenoid and on the other side from the solenoid to the starter. The solenoid has the 2 large connection points and the 2 smaller ones. Larger ones as said above go battery->solenoid->out other side of solenoid-> electric starter.

    The wiring for the key is set right for on and off (will run and turn off right). However turning the key to start is not working. Im sure I have something wired wrong but cant seem to come up with any clear diagrams on it.

    I ran the wires from the Kill switch to key
    Ground to the key

    The other 3 are the regulator (is this the alt?), "start", and "battery"

    Thanks, I can try to get some pictures if this would help but I wish I had a 48 or similar mower local I could look at to figure out the answers easily.

    Thanks for any help
  2. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Do you have two wires to connect to both of the small post on the solenoid ?

    The "S" wire on the switch can go to either small post on the solenoid while the other small post on the solenoid must be grounded somewhere in the harness (Safety switches).

    If you have no safety switches left on this unit and have battery voltage on the "S" wire at the solenoid just run a wire from the other small post to the solenoid mounting screw and call it a day.
  3. Snyderserv5060

    Snyderserv5060 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 194

    Restrorob, thanks for the reply. Im trying to follow exactly what your saying tho. I have the (2) larger posts hooked up right, or at least I think so. The two smaller ones are where im getting hung up. I made up 2 wires to run from the key switch to the solenoid but im not sure that thats where they are supposed to go.

    Does one of the smaller posts on the solenoid not get used or both? or does one get grounded out? Im just not sure which combination is needed to make the smaller posts connect the circuit when the key is turned.

    The mower being setup previously for recoil only does not have all the safety switches an electric start mower would. The ones it does have are left alone... the mower does run. I can clearly start the mower by just taking the positive battery cable to the starter.

    Lastly do I run the alternator wire to the battery direct so it charges it while the mower is in use or is that not how it goes. I think tomorrow i'll snap a pic of the wiring I have done to it.

    Thanks again for your help
  4. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Both on the solenoid you have.

    Put the wire from the "S" (Start) post on the back of the switch to either of the small post on the solenoid......Ground the other small post on the solenoid to one of the screws holding the solenoid to the mower frame.

    As you see in the diagram below two voltage regulator wires go to the stator and one goes to the "B" post on "your switch" but "D" post on the switch below, They are the same post that go to the battery. If you don't have a in-line fuse (20 amp) between the battery and ignition switch add one there or in the regulator power wire as shown in the diagram.

    Hope I didn't loose you again....

  5. Snyderserv5060

    Snyderserv5060 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 194

    Again, thank you... I will work on it again tomorrow. Well then again weather permitting, we may get snow here in MD tomorrow.

    Is it safe to say (initially) I can wire it all up with out the charging system complete and it will start as expected minus the battery keeping its charge over time? Or if this is not wired up will it not work out? I will add in a fuse and get some wires tomorrow to do a quality install.
  6. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Yes it will start every time until the battery gets too low to turn it over, But it has to spin a certain speed to produce spark so don't run the battery too low where it just barely spins over.
  7. Snyderserv5060

    Snyderserv5060 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 194

    Gotcha, it wont be run like with out the charging system long. Just initially want to get the key switch to start it, working right 1st...then I will work on the charging system and the fuse.

    I do need to mention I do not have a carb sensor as I opted to leave it to work off just recoil (figuring I wouldn't wire it up so soon). So that does not need to be powered. Does the alternator wire need to go to the key switch assembly since the carb does not need a 12volt source to work? Or can the charging system power wire out of the engine (its just 1 red wire) be run to a fuse --> then to the battery direct?
  8. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    There are so many different ignition switches on the market and not knowing which you have I can only guess.

    If I were doing this wiring job I would go to the "M" (mag} post on the switch with a multimeter or test light. If this "M" post is powered (has battery voltage) with the key in the run position and no voltage with the key in the stop (off) position this is where I would hook the 1 red voltage regulator wire. a fuse is not necessary in this wire as long as there is a fuse in the wire from the battery to the switch.

    I just don't see any point in powering the voltage regulator 24/7 (going straight to battery) if it can be put on the switch and only powered when the switch is on and engine running.
  9. Snyderserv5060

    Snyderserv5060 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 194

    The diagram for the key switch is as follows. I plan to work on it more tomorrow when the snow we got here clears up.

    I follow now tho, the regulator and battery will be connected with the key turned so it charges when the mower is running.

  10. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029


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