4in1 bucket cyclinder, weld?

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by motoxmotox, Dec 27, 2005.

  1. motoxmotox

    motoxmotox LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    Hey gyes, if you look at the picture you can see a nice crack on the cylinder.
    I was going to have a go at welding it up do you think that would work ?
    Do you think any crap get in the hydro fluid?
    Any thing I should do before I weld?
    Any help would be great because a new one is gonna cost $750 aussie bucks!

  2. Squizzy246B

    Squizzy246B LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 837

    Welding will work if the cylinder is completley stripped and correctly pre-heated. You will also need new seals.

    On the other hand $750 is outrageous for a new one so I assume thats from an equipment dealer. We just bought two rams for a set of grapples. They where custom made for us and cost $700 for the pair. I'd ask around the hydraulic shops for a firm that builds or repairs rams.

    It would help if we knew where abouts you are??
  3. motoxmotox

    motoxmotox LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    Yeah that price was from case
    I live in melbourne
  4. Squizzy246B

    Squizzy246B LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 837

    In the case..!!!..Berendsens can do it but they can be a bit exxy. You can also call Flotek or M&N Hydraulics. Its been awhile since I was in Melbourne...the yellow pages is your friend or catch a Pirtek/Enzed guy and ask them which engineering shop they are using for cylinder repairs. About $145.00 for a no guarantees repair or around $320.00 to $400.00 for a new one made to order off your old one. Its not rocket science just need the right tools.

    Case are deadly for parts but not as bad as New Holland or JD.:cry:
  5. Squizzy246B

    Squizzy246B LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 837

    On another note have you isolated the cause of the crack so you are sure its not going to happen again...no point throwing money in the bin.

    Always make sure any hydraulic system is opened out and free of fluid before welding.
  6. motoxmotox

    motoxmotox LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    Thanks for your help that price sounds alot better, the cylinder had a crack there for a while I guess it was just a matter of time, thanks.
  7. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    I am going to guess that the cylinder cracked where it did because of abuse. One or two possible causes. Lifting loads that are to heavy causing the cylinder to bow under pressure, or having cylinder fully extended and applying pressure to cause the cylinder to need to extend even more.

    To fix the crack, remove the shaft and seals, they can be reused if not damaged. Heat metal but not red hot, just hot enough to evaporate any oil that might be absorbed in the metal. You can braze it, which is a good fix that wont create a brittle section that will just crack again, or you can use ARC welding with 6013, 6011, or 7018 roads. don't try to weld it all at once or you will shrink the tubing. Spot weld at the out most part of crack first, let cool and then make several more spot welds along the length of the crack. After the spot welds have cooled you can then make one pass the entire length of the crack.
  8. motoxmotox

    motoxmotox LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    okay cool i'll give that a go soon thanks
  9. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,098

    When welding on a hydraulic cylinder make sure the ground path DOES NOT travel though the ram. If the ground path travels though the ram to the cylinder it will cause arcing and pit to the ram and every time you cycle the ram it will eat up the seal. I worked in a welding shop some years back and told my boss that one of the other welders was making a bad mistake by grounding the clamp to a Bob Cat bucket in the wrong place and was told that he knew more than me. Well my boss came to me and told me he wished had had listened me when the ram got arced up and caused over $500 in damage (the bill from Bob Cat) When welding on any thing alway keep in mind the path the current is going to take.
  10. motoxmotox

    motoxmotox LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    thanks for the tip..
    umm... how do you pull it apart ? do you lift the clip and extend the shaft quickly tapping the seal out like motorbike forks? I've never pulled one apart.

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