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4th Stall Parking Idea's

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by Jonce, Jul 19, 2005.

  1. Jonce

    Jonce LawnSite Member
    from MN
    Messages: 34

    I'm looking at putting a 4th car parking spot along side my garage. This will mainly be for parking my enclosed trailer. Has anyone done a similar project? If so, would you do anything differently the next time around? What size blocks should I use - 12" wide or the bigger 16" ones?

    Tonight I am going to get the a measurement of how high it will need to be but I am guessing it will be right around 2' (give or take 3" to 4"). How much base should I put down under the base layer block? Also, do I need to run drainage on a small retaining wall like this?

    I plan on having crushed concrete or something to that effect for the top layer this year and then maybe pave it next year. Any thoughts on that?

    Here are the pictures of where it will be located. It will be about 13' wide on the back of the stall, 23' alongside the garage, and 20-23' of wall coming from the driveway. Total - 56-59' of block per layer.




  2. bleabold

    bleabold LawnSite Member
    Messages: 19

    If i were doing this project for a customer, I would use a minimum of 24" compacted stone base under the wall. Install a geo-fabric under the parking area ( lay it directly on the grass ). If you use 2b stone for your base, it will settle within the first year of use. Especially if you are going to be parking an enclosed trailer on it. If you a compacted stone base (2b modified), put down 6-8" at a time and compact each layer, the chances of it settling, will be greatly reduced. I would definitely agree to wait at least a year to black top it. Wait for it to settle. I suggest you use layers and compact each layer.
  3. Jonce

    Jonce LawnSite Member
    from MN
    Messages: 34

    Thanks for the reply bleabold and thank you for the pointers.

    I'm not a landscaper by trade but I was wondering why so much base (24")? Another dumb question about the base layer - should I have the top of the base layer almost ground level or not?

    You mentioned the geo-fabric and that you would lay that right on top of the grass, should I worry about killing the grass before laying the fabric down? Should I double layer the fabric for extra protection of weeds coming through?

    How much compacted stone (2b modified) do you think I need to get hauled in?

    What would you charge do this this project start to finish?
  4. Electra_Glide

    Electra_Glide LawnSite Member
    Messages: 75

    I would remove the existing grass and topsoil to get to some undisturbed soil. Then bring in some clean fill compacting it in 6" lifts. 6" of either 2A modified or 2B modified compacted would make it ready for paving. Done that way, you wouldn't need to wait for settling and it would be ready to pave immediately.

    You could probably get away without geogrid, especially since it's only going to be a parking area, but it's kind of like buying cheap "insurance". I'd probably put it in at about the midpoint of the wall, and not at the bottom.

    Without thinking about it too hard, I'd SWAG it somewhere around $8500 for everything except the paving.

    Joe Kantz
  5. Jonce

    Jonce LawnSite Member
    from MN
    Messages: 34

    Well I finally started my 4th stall parking area. I laid out some block as the picture shows. I plan on using geogrid for the parking area. My first question is - do I need to run two different layers of geogrid (i.e. one in each direction between layers of fill) or can I get away with one?

    Also, I have been reading about people putting landscape fabric directly behind the retaining wall block and then putting in the drainage material and fill. Is that the recommended way? How would that work with the geogrid? Doesn't the geogrid lay on top of one course of block while the next layer presses down on it?

    I plan on doing 90 degree corners in the back and a 30 or so dgree corner in the front to follow the driveway. Should i just go rent a masonry saw from the rental store? What would you suggest? When doing the 90 degree corners, do you use Sure Bond or Liquid Nails (construction adhesive) on the joints?

    Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to have this wall go smoothly as possible.









    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,426

    With a live surcharge next to that wall, I did not see any strata grid in the courses. What does that trailer weigh loaded? 5K?, 6?, you need grid between every other course on a wall that has a live surcharge starting from the toe course and moving up. I would place it the entire width of the drive. Next problem. You have a lipped wall. They typically are designed for applications under 3' in height, with no surcharge, (i.e. flat ground, no structures, vehicles, etc) and in most cases, they should not be installed over 2' in height.

    For the type of load you have next to the wall, you really need a pinned system.

    Now let me add this one. The rise you are trying to make can't be 18", right?
    Since you have to pave your area anyway, why not form the wall with concrete, use #3 rebar on a 1' grid to reinforce it, and do a monolithic pour of the wall and driveway surface? You can use a form to hold up a curb on top, then when the mud tighhtens up, pull the forms and have the finishers make it pretty.

    Cost and screwing around wise, probably won't be too far off a wall and pavement. Just put in pleanty of control joints, broom it off and you're set.
  7. Jonce

    Jonce LawnSite Member
    from MN
    Messages: 34

    Correct, I haven't put any grid down yet, I was just setting the block to see what it will look like and to make sure it's straight. Trailer weighs 3200 lbs unloaded. Loaded with my equipment, probably 4500 lbs (not a big outfit). I don't store my sleds in there, they are stored in the garage.

    Thanks for the info...

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