[The Swamp Fox]

I'm in the midst of shopping for my first lawn and landscape maintenance trailer, and have been neck-deep in technical specs for weeks. In an effort to do my due diligence, I have been through USDOT regulations, title and licensing considerations in my state, and my truck's towing capability (GVWR, GAWR, GCWR, GTW).

I've settled on a bumper-pull, single axle enclosed trailer. I've decided on a single axle over a tandem primarily for the lower trailer weight and tire wear, as well as increased maneuverability. If I do get a single axle, it will most likely be an upgraded 5,200 lb. torsion axle.

Making an informed decision on trailer dimensions is where I'm having trouble, particularly regarding length. I'm looking at a trailer in the range of 6' or 7' wide x 10', 12', or 14' long. For sake of reference, my primary mower will be a 52" Gravely Pro-Stance which measures 55" wide (chute up) and 64" long. My only other mower to start will be a cordless 21" push mower which can be folded up and stored vertically between uses.

After creating a list of total expected trailer contents along with their weights and dimensions, I've been mocking up proposed layouts in an effort to identify the ideal trailer size which will support a practical and efficient workflow for my solo operation. One consideration that became apparent after doing so was a possible issue with effective trailer length for my application being much less than actual trailer length due to the need to consider my stander's center of gravity in regard to achieving the proper trailer tongue weight.

At first I was simply subtracting the 5.3' (64") length of my stander from the overall length of a given trailer and counting the remainder of the length as functional space in the front of the trailer for storage. However, I quickly realized that loading my stander facing forward as far back as possible in the trailer will put its center of gravity behind the axle.

Driving the stander forward far enough to center the rear wheels over the trailer's axle or just ahead of it means I will be losing a good 6' or so of trailer floor space in a typical 14' trailer. That floor space will become more or less unusable due to being positioned behind the mower, and I'd be left with only 2.5' of available floor space in the front of the trailer for storage, barring a V-nose.

If I instead back the stander in, I could position the rear wheels just ahead of the axle while sacrificing only 1' or so of space in the back of that same 14' single-axle trailer. However, backing the stander in poses other logistical challenges for my ideal layout.

Obviously this becomes a non-issue if I were to add a 36" walk-behind or stander in the front of the trailer for handling the occasional gated backyard. This is something I have considered, but don't want to do until I have the clients to support it.

I would be very interested to hear from others who run a single stander or ZRT in single-axle trailers regarding what they have found regarding their center of gravity and the ideal positioning / load position for them in their trailers when taking tongue weight into account. Specifically:

1. Is this issue of usable / effective trailer length being much less than total length due to the need to load balance a single mower a valid concern?
   
2. If so, does a tandem axle mitigate the issue to some extent?
   
3. Is this issue more pronounced with the center of gravity of a stander compared to a ZRT?

I have read several other related threads which have been posted recently and gleaned some good information from them, but felt that my specific situation regarding a stander deserved its own thread. For sake of reference, I've pasted links to a few related discussions below:

• https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/single-mower-placement-on-new-enclosed-6x12-sa.495170/
• https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/loading-mowers-forward-or-backward-on-a-trailer.497459/

 

[Scott87]

I run 7x12 H&H single axle enclosed(3500 lb axle). I carry a 21" push, 36 walkbehind and a 48" stander. Al the standers weight is back of the axle and there is plenty of tonge weight so it rides ok. The deck of the stander fits under the handle of the WB. Everything would never fit if I loaded the stander in backwards. A tandem axle would help carry the weight better but if I was gonna run a tandem axle it would be a 16 footer. If Iwas gonna just bring my stander I can move it forward and still lash it down-I never do. A V-nose trailer might free up some more room to move things forward. A custom trailer with the axle moved back maybe10 inches might be the ticket.

 

[rippinryno]

I run a single axle 6x12 enclosed and i put my rear wheels right ont he axle if i'm only hauling one mower. that is a 52" stander. For what it's worth, you won't be needing a heavier axle if you're only putting 1 stander in there. THe 3500lb will be more than enough.

When it comes to tongue weight, with a small trailer like that yo won't have to worry about much unless you try to put the weight behind the trailer axle, then it might throw you around. I put a 32" stander all the way in front of my trailer and then I put the 52" behind it. My tongue weight is on the heavy side, but no problems yet.

 

[The Swamp Fox]

I run 7x12 H&H single axle enclosed(3500 lb axle). I carry a 21" push, 36 walkbehind and a 48" stander. Al the standers weight is back of the axle and there is plenty of tonge weight so it rides ok. The deck of the stander fits under the handle of the WB. Everything would never fit if I loaded the stander in backwards. A tandem axle would help carry the weight better but if I was gonna run a tandem axle it would be a 16 footer. If Iwas gonna just bring my stander I can move it forward and still lash it down-I never do. A V-nose trailer might free up some more room to move things forward. A custom trailer with the axle moved back maybe10 inches might be the ticket.

Thanks for the feedback! This is just the type of information I was looking for.

I do expect to add a 32-36" walk-behind or stander at some point in future if my client roster fills out as planned. I was thinking that would likely eliminate this problem of the load position of the stander, due to the counter-balance weight of the smaller machine ahead of it. Based on your experience, it sounds like that is indeed the case.

I am planning on a V-nose for the reasons you mentioned, and have been considering the idea of a custom build as well. Your idea on moving the axle back is a good one that I hadn't previously considered.

What is the rear ramp door height on your 7x12' enclosed? Do you have to duck to get in/out when driving your stander? That's one of the perceived logistical challenges I mentioned, as most rear ramp door heights on 6' trailers I've seen are only 5'7" or so. Needing to back the stander in to get the center of gravity over the axle for load balancing purposes while having to duck a good 6" or so while doing going through the door backwards sound like a recipe for a bad day.

 

[The Swamp Fox]

I run a single axle 6x12 enclosed and i put my rear wheels right ont he axle if i'm only hauling one mower. that is a 52" stander. For what it's worth, you won't be needing a heavier axle if you're only putting 1 stander in there. THe 3500lb will be more than enough.

When it comes to tongue weight, with a small trailer like that yo won't have to worry about much unless you try to put the weight behind the trailer axle, then it might throw you around. I put a 32" stander all the way in front of my trailer and then I put the 52" behind it. My tongue weight is on the heavy side, but no problems yet.

Great info, rippin! Appreciate you taking the time to share your experience.

When you put the rear wheels of your 52" stander over the axle, do you ever position the stander backwards to conserve storage space in front of the trailer? If so, do you find that this forces you to leave the trailer out the side door then circle back to close the rear ramp, or do you have enough clearance to squeeze by the mower and exit out the rear?

Since you run two standers out of a 6x12', I'm also curious how the rear ramp door height has played out for you. Does your trailer have a taller-than-standard roofline, or do you have to duck getting in and out? Interested to hear how much of an issue that turns out to be day-in and day-out.

I'd also like to know how much room you have left for handhelds and accessories in the front of the trailer when transporting both of your standers in a 12-footer, specifically your handheld racking / mounting solution.

I'm entertaining the thought of a 5,200 lb. axle since I expect to eventually carry two standers. At about 1,000 lb. apiece plus the 1,300 or so lb. of a 7x14 single axle, that puts me a little too close to the upper limit for my tastes.

 

[fatboynormmie]

My next Enclosed will most likely be a 7x14 All 16” oc construction with a single 5200# axle with brakes . It will have an extended Inside height and the rear door opening must be a min of 6’ . The back door must be rated for a min 3500# Load . Debating on a 40” side door or ramp . Will have drop down rear legs for when it’s unhooked from the truck so you can still move equipment in and out of it. I like a rounded /square nose with a extended tongue along with a deck box and spare tire/ mount . All led lighting . E track ran on floor down both sides about 3” off the sidewalls And on strip up the center . E track down both walls about 1’ up from the floor.

E track allows you to position the mower where ever you need it and still be able to strap it down. The 3500# door captivity allows me to carry either my Dingo or mini excavator if needed in case the job is in a spot I can’t get my Big 20’ enclosed into . Swamp Fox you seem pretty OCD about things and I’m the same way. Lol . This is clearly a trailer you will have to have custom built. Seriously the perfect setup won’t be cheap but if done right could last you a long time. Buy once cry once.

I started out with an off the shelf unit and over the many yrs (12) have upgraded my 6x12 to my liking by adding steel making it 12 oc. Added better axle and springs . Better tire combos along with all the extras I listed in my dream trailer above. In all I bet I have spent 6-7 grand piece mealing it . It now is a well equipped unit that just works like I want it to. Just wish it was a 7x14 ...lol.

I work in tight areas so the a smaller trailer just makes more sense for my mowing route set up. Prefer the single wheel over the dual wheel units any day of the week. I like having the right tool for the job. When I need to carry bigger stuff or loads I have the 20’ enclosed which is my dingo trailer setup. But I also have a dual axle dump and a 10,000lb Towmaster equipment trailer in my arsenal. It’s a sickness man...lol

 

[Scott87]

Thanks for the feedback! This is just the type of information I was looking for.

I do expect to add a 32-36" walk-behind or stander at some point in future if my client roster fills out as planned. I was thinking that would likely eliminate this problem of the load position of the stander, due to the counter-balance weight of the smaller machine ahead of it. Based on your experience, it sounds like that is indeed the case.

I am planning on a V-nose for the reasons you mentioned, and have been considering the idea of a custom build as well. Your idea on moving the axle back is a good one that I hadn't previously considered.

What is the rear ramp door height on your 7x12' enclosed? Do you have to duck to get in/out when driving your stander? That's one of the perceived logistical challenges I mentioned, as most rear ramp door heights on 6' trailers I've seen are only 5'7" or so. Needing to back the stander in to get the center of gravity over the axle for load balancing purposes while having to duck a good 6" or so while doing going through the door backwards sound like a recipe for a bad day.

I have a 6 foot door but I still have to duck because the platform on my stander is about 5 inches off the ground. Have you considered roof type yet. Rounded or flat. Some of the ones with flat roofs around here don't last much more than 8 years-snow load. As FBNormmie pointed out a 40" side ramp door is something for my next trailer. I have several accounts now where I have to take the stander off to get access to the 36" WB

 

[rippinryno]

Great info, rippin! Appreciate you taking the time to share your experience.

When you put the rear wheels of your 52" stander over the axle, do you ever position the stander backwards to conserve storage space in front of the trailer? If so, do you find that this forces you to leave the trailer out the side door then circle back to close the rear ramp, or do you have enough clearance to squeeze by the mower and exit out the rear?

Since you run two standers out of a 6x12', I'm also curious how the rear ramp door height has played out for you. Does your trailer have a taller-than-standard roofline, or do you have to duck getting in and out? Interested to hear how much of an issue that turns out to be day-in and day-out.

I'd also like to know how much room you have left for handhelds and accessories in the front of the trailer when transporting both of your standers in a 12-footer, specifically your handheld racking / mounting solution.

I'm entertaining the thought of a 5,200 lb. axle since I expect to eventually carry two standers. At about 1,000 lb. apiece plus the 1,300 or so lb. of a 7x14 single axle, that puts me a little too close to the upper limit for my tastes.

Let me see if I can find a picture of the trailer that i took when i first got it.

My trimmers are on the wall, my mowers fit with plenty of room. THe only handheld that isn't in the trailer is the backpack blower it stays in the back of my truck for ease of access, once I'm done with a lawn I put the trimmer on the rack and close the back door, i rarely access through the side door. I keep a 35 gallon plastic trash can in the V front area of the trailer with a pickup stick.

I only have a 6ft height, i was looking at the 6'6" but even with that i'd have to duck to get into the door. I duck when I go in and I don't forget, lol.