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Aggrand products

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by turfinator, Sep 16, 2003.

  1. turfinator

    turfinator LawnSite Member
    Messages: 78

    Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with Aggrand products and if so what do you think. I live in Manitoba and have for the past few years wanted to start offering organic services but the prices for product are just outrageous. Many of the companies Ive seen here suggest in their advertising they are organic and to the less knowledgeable potential customer they gobble it up. In actuality they use a combination of synthetic/organics but downplay the synthetic angle. Does anyone know of any for fert or herbicide from in this neck of the woods.
  2. turfinator

    turfinator LawnSite Member
    Messages: 78

    That last line should read.... Does anyone know of any suppliers for fert or herbicide from in this neck of the woods.
  3. Dchall_San_Antonio

    Dchall_San_Antonio LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 327

    I'm not familiar with the brand, but that hardly ever stops me from having a comment. I have a brand nearby that in many products sets the standard for organic materials. However they also have products that are "organic based," as it states on the label. In reading the ingredients carefully, they do have some organic materials, but they also have some "semi organic" and some outright synthetic materials. By semi organic I'm talking about synthetically reproduced urea.

    Now let me say this about urea. I belive the synthetic urea to be identical in chemical structure to the urea in mammalian urine. As such, I personally don't have a problem with it other than it is one HOT sumbit@h on the grass. But what I think about the product is immaterial to the issue. It is what your client thinks of the product that matters.

    If you PROMISE them a 100% organic program, then by golly (pardon my French) you should deliver it and darn the cost. They should know what they are getting into in every a$pect of the program and for sure they should know if you EVER think a deviation from 100% organic would give them a nicer garden. Keep in mind that these folks, by and large, are conditioned to expect less with an organic program. I am certainly NOT conditioned that way, but the general masses are.

    Now as for alternatives to commercially branded organic fertilizers in Canada, my Canadian e-friends use canola meal, soybean meal, corn meal, seaweed meal, and fish meal. I would stay away from the fish meal because it really will stink up a neighborhood. It depends on where they are geographically relative to the mills and what the mills get in to grind for animal feed. The retail cost for the whole ground meals should be about 1/6 to 1/10 the retail cost of the commercial brands. Look for a cost around $0.10 per pound or less.
  4. turfinator

    turfinator LawnSite Member
    Messages: 78

    Of the meals that you suggested corn and alfalfa seem to be the easiest to obtain. What would you recomend as far as a recipe? Not much fish or seaweed meal here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have used alfalfa meal on my own lawn last year with limited results. I do realize that these products do take longer to see results but the results I obtained werent really satisfactory. I know some companies selling organic products list mollasses as a main ingredient. I wonder if there would be a way to add this to the alfalfa and corn meal without using a tea mix. If a tea mix was to be used how difficult would that be to use on a commercial basis.
  5. Green in Idaho

    Green in Idaho LawnSite Senior Member
    from Idaho
    Messages: 833

    Can you tell us more about using the alfalfa meal previously? Application rate, # of apps in the season, etc?

    What was not satisfactory? No change?
  6. turfinator

    turfinator LawnSite Member
    Messages: 78

    I used about 10lbs per 1000 sq/ft and applied it in the spring mid summer and early fall. This was the first season using no synthetic fertilizers. Its not that I had horrible results its just I didnt get the same lush dark green lawn I usually have. I found I was pretty tempted to use synthetics when all the neighbors had very nice lawns last year. It seems the alfalfa had a very slow availability. I am looking for something I could use that would have a more rapid availability while at the same time not be offensive smelling or attract every animal in the neighborhood. Could be a tough order to fill???
  7. Green in Idaho

    Green in Idaho LawnSite Senior Member
    from Idaho
    Messages: 833

    10lbs of material or 10lbs of N? Given your lack luster results I have to guess 10lbs of material (meal).

    I don't know about your specific product but my reference says alfalfa has 2-3 lb N. If we can assume it is similar for your meal. Then :

    3% of 10lb is 4.8 oz of N. You probably put on about 4oz of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. Did it 3 times, so you did about 3/4 pound for the season.

    See where I'm going?

    As a standard --KY Blue needs 2-6N/1,000 per year. Using a. meal of 3%, the math says you have to apply 200lbs/1,000/yr to feed well.

    Solution would be apply more often (6+ times per year) and mostly in fall. OR also use a material with a higher N. Alternate one app of alfalfa and one of something else such as cottonseed meal 6-2-2 (ordorous) or something like the Ringer products.

    I would say to ween a lawn off chems and to start an organic program the higher volumes are needed, but then after a couple seasons the soils and mulching will take over and much less material would be needed.- Thereby the costs and efforts go down over time.

    Also it is not necessary to use only ONE organic fert. Mixing, blending and using variety are very helpful to get a better supply of trace elements too.
  8. yardmonkey

    yardmonkey LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 341

    turfinator -

    Dried molasses should be readily available at feed stores. I got a 50lb bag for about $10. Mixes easily.
  9. Green in Idaho

    Green in Idaho LawnSite Senior Member
    from Idaho
    Messages: 833

    Molasses 1-0-5.

    Even LESS N so it's not a good source to green the turf. However it is a good source for sulpher and potash, and it feeds the microbes.

    To address the initial thread. I searched for AGgrand Web site and did not find THEIR home, but several other sites selling the products. Looks like they are all liquid products and marketed for smaller scale use.

    Does apply to LCO though when a customer has a sick plant and wants to enhance or help recover the plant- i.e. using the kelp/seaweed blend.

    So within the world of organics as it applies to professionals it is necessary to consider and PLAN for wide scope needs (fertilizing every account) and narrow scope needs (curing powdery mildew on one rose plant).

    Solution: I have several good reference manuals handy.
  10. Dchall_San_Antonio

    Dchall_San_Antonio LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 327

    I use cornmeal at about the same application rate of 10 pounds per 1,000 and get really good results, specifically color and density are very good at that rate. My grass is St Augustine in a crushed limestone soil base. Can you comment on the general nature of the soil and grass you have?

    Molasses can be used to help stimulate microbial growth on the surface of the plants and in the soil. An application rate I've seen work remarkably well on cotton plants is 1 gallon per acre applied 3 times per season. That translates to 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. This was on no-till and non-irrigated cotton in the Texas panhandle. The water and irrigation equipment savings is enough each year to more than make up for any crop losses due to no irrigation. These cotton plants thrive from rainstorm to rainstorm apparently due to the vastly increased numbers of micorhyzzal fungi (university testing). So does this molasses application translate to the home? I cannot say.

    Dried molasses is wet molasses poured over chipped corn cobs or rice hulls. It will solidify in the bag once it is opened to the humidity. You get a LOT more molasses for your money if you buy it by the pound at an agricultural co-op for $0.11 per pound. A gallon will cost $1.16 in YOUR bottle. A 55-gallon drum would cost about $60-$70 in YOUR drum.

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