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Glad its working out for you.

I've just never had good luck using mancozeb for pythium.....

I sent you a PM.
 
The best way to prevent the Phythium is to stop applying nitrogen in the summer time. I know everybody wants a green lawn, but a pythium lawn looks worse than a off colored green lawn. Get your nitrogen down early and quit trying to force feed a normally dormant lawn and your phythium problems will go away.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
muddstopper said:
The best way to prevent the Phythium is to stop applying nitrogen in the summer time. I know everybody wants a green lawn, but a pythium lawn looks worse than a off colored green lawn. Get your nitrogen down early and quit trying to force feed a normally dormant lawn and your phythium problems will go away.
People who irrigate their lawn properly do not have dormant turf in the summer. These lawns do still require proper fertilization, including nitrogen. I advise all of my clients of proper irrigation methods. When fungal disease crops up, despite proper cultural practices, I recommend applying a fungicide. Its called turf management. It is what I offer to my clients.
 
disease popping up like that on a HOME lawn should be telling you that it is mainly the customer's fault. Those areas must have been satuated to have that pythium move like that and i dam sure would not have given them a break on a curitive app. I probably would have gone with banol or daconil, mybe even heritage if i wanted to watch them faint when i told them the price.hehe. Hope everything works out with the mancozeb. I only used as a preventative on fairway and tees. But never curitive.
 
Few things

I don't know your H/O board but I know most are notoriously cheap unless their lawn is dying in front in front of their eyes. It was probably just logistics getting approval from all they needed to get things moving. Getting approval from a H/O board in one week is very quick. It wouldn't be any different if the place was on fire and they had to round up everyone to get approval to pay the fire dept before they would put out the fire, it would still take a week.

Its your job as the professional to be proactive and inform them before the season that their could be a potential problem and have their approval already in place. I think given all the facts they would prefer the better chemical and the savings in the long run.

Healthy turf is more resistant to disease. They do need nitrogen but less and slow release. I always switch to a high Potassium product with some additional Iron in about June. The turf needs extra Potassium to help defend itself against pest and disease and will also help it hold its color going into the winter. I am using a 10-8-16 with 3.5 % Iron. While we have few problems with fungi no turf likes going 10 days and the temperature never getting below 90. Our problems are Pearle scale (no chemical control) grubs, sod web worms and the clogged sprinkler nozzle.

Once again it is your job as the professional to educate them. This is the perfect opportunity. Set an appointment to speak at the next board meeting. Take some literature from your local university about pithium and turf nutrition in general to hand out. Sell them better fertilizer applications in hopes that you don't have to deal with fungus problems if things go bad but get the agreement in place so if it does you are prepared.
 
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