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Application volume for "hose draggers"

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by PHS, Nov 3, 2007.

  1. PHS

    PHS LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 724

    1st Question: I'm planning to rebuild a couple spray rigs this winter and I'm wondering what the typical application rate (gals of solution/1ktft2) is for the "hose draggers" here. I'm guesstimating around 2-2.5 is what I would use.

    2nd Question: Do you guys apply the same amount (gals of solution/1kft2) for all treatments (pre-m, post-m, fert, insct, fung, etc) and mix accordingly or do you adjust the volume as well.

    Lawns treatments are only a portion of my business (I plan on focusing on this service next year) and so far all are small, most are <4000ft2. I have just been using an electric backpack sprayer with a boom attachment and applying 1 gal/1k for everything except the occasional fungicide treatment (2 gal/1k). I recently sold some larger treatments for next year 10k, 12k, and 18K so now I have some motivation to get my rigs rebuilt.
  2. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,497

    2 gal./M is sort of a standard, and is a safer mix. I'm not sure, but I BELIEVE that is about what the big green companies use. They tend to use this so the rocket scientists they hire as "techs" don't burn or damage surrounding stuff so easily. When I pulled, I pulled at 1 gal./M which when I was taught,....I was well informed and made to know that this was a HOT mix. The benefit of mixing and calibrating it hot like this is of course to get more sq. footage per tank (less refills). this is especially important if you are running anything under a 300 gal. tank. (Anything under 200 is simply just too small for turf applications).
  3. MStine315

    MStine315 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 789

    I run at 50 GPA, (1.25 GPM). This is out of a 200 gal. tank, so I get 4 acres per fill. I know of a company in my service area that is at 1 GPM, but like Joe said, it's tricky, especially for trim areas. Of course this is all based on having a fert. solution in the tank. Weed control only? You can get crazy low, but with fert. 1.5-2 GPM is in a safer range. Anything above that and you almost need to go to 1/2" hose to carry volume, and that opens up a whole can of worms on pulling a much heavier hose and being much less efficient. I stay at the same range for 90% of my treatments, but there is the odd occasion to adjust.
  4. PHS

    PHS LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 724

    Thanks for the help guys. I'll plan and calibrate for 2 gal and then adjust with experience. Right now I don't have the volume of lawns to worry about the number of refills. Hopefully that changes shortly. I have a 300 gal tank (Bean R2020) on one one rig and the other rig (Bean R1010) is the one I'm deciding on. It had a 150 on it but I didn't like the tank design and a couple 30gal cone tanks. Thanks for mentioning the hose size and volume. In a previous life I was dragging 3/4 and 1/2 so I am looking forward to 3/8 :).
  5. MStine315

    MStine315 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 789

    You could also do a search of this forum regarding hose size. There are lots of good opinions and ideas regarding this. I cut my teeth on 4 piston bean pumps. They are bullet proof. Good luck!
  6. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,727

    As Mark said, if you are applying fertilizer in the solution--it is very different from when you are applying weed killer only.

    I learned at early days of TruGreen--we used 4 gallons per minute, half inch hose and Bean 1010 or 2020 pumps. You need the high volume to reduce the chance of feriliizer burn. Hot weather and low volume increase the chance of fertilizer burn. At low volume you need to use some kind of costly liquid slow release--OR--you need to cut way back on the fertilizer in the mix. In hot weather half a pound of nitrogen per thousand is about the maximum. I am not sure what TG is doing now.

    Myself i use 3.25 gallons per minute. But I discovered I cover at least 1300 sq ft per minute walking slow--so I am only applying about 2.5 gallons per 1000 sq ft.

    Be sure to calibrate correctly for your walking speed, and take the temperature into account. Of course, fine fescue and bentgrass are more sensitive.
  7. PHS

    PHS LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 724


    They've always been in the back of my mind but I haven't really given too much thought to liquid ferts until now. I personally like very slow release ferts and typically use urea-formaldehyde formulations for other landscape uses. I've been looking into the UMaxx formulations and that might work well for me. They are spendy but 80% of my accounts are Centipedegrass that has a very low fertility requirement and .5#N in the spring and .5#N in summer may work well and keep the material cost reasonable.
  8. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Messages: 5,954

    Our liquid fert costs have jumped through the roof the past year or two. Dry fert is less expensive for us. We prefer 1/2 inch hose cuz the initial burst coming out of the gun is not so bad compared to 3/8 inch hose. We spray two gallons per 1000 sq ft. Back in my ChemLawn days (not TruGreen), we sprayed 4 gallons per 1000 sq ft using 3/8 inch hose.
  9. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,727

    remember, to double the flow through a hose you have to quadruple the pressure. Two gallons per minute is fine. It is very difficult to get 3 gallons per minute through a 3/8th hose. ( You might need 200 pounds pressure.)Smaller diameter hose has a much greater friction loss per hundred feet of travel--less pressure and flow rate are available at the gun. The hose manufacturers can explain this to you. They have charts to calculate proper hose diameter, based on length, maximum flow rate of pump, and pressure.
  10. MStine315

    MStine315 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 789

    I agree with American, liquid based ferts are much more expensive. However, the situations I'm using them in are mainly little islands at strip malls, strips of grass I can drive and spray, hills that are to steep for a machine, etc... It is certainly not the basis of my fertility program, but it does have its place.

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