Applying liquid iron to St. Augustine??

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Ron95gt, Sep 2, 2004.

  1. Ron95gt

    Ron95gt LawnSite Member
    Messages: 24

    Just built in the country, on what used to be a peanut field. Soil is very sandy. I've been moving LARGE plugs of St. Augustine into the yard and noticed that while decent green color when transplanting them, they are getting yellow tips on them shortly after. Never seen that before, but read up online, and it points to iron deficiency. So, I ran and got a 32 oz. bottle of chelated.
    At the moment I only have a 2 gallon hand pump sprayer. My questions are:
    1)that oz per 1000 square feet math confuses me. How many ounces per gallon is what I'd like to know?
    2)How heavy should I apply it to the St. A areas?
    3)Do I water it in, the same day? Just a drink or heavy sprinkling?

    The transplanted parts of the yard had a high nitrogen slow release fert. put down a couple months ago. Greened up quickly, then lost it. I have no idea what the PH is.
    4)Any other advice is welcome also.
  2. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,370

    On established St Aug lawn you can put straight liquid iron in hose end sprayer and set it at mid range rate. Lightly spray the yard keeping iron off concrete. Usually works best in south when grass is wet. It will green up in a few days.
  3. sniggly

    sniggly LawnSite Member
    Messages: 190

    You sound like someone that deals and operates on specifics....which is a good thing.

    Personally, I would pay the 12 bucks to get a soil profile done. I know what I would expect to see in a soil test here but I have no idea what you would see up there. Sure, liquid iron is going to get a fast green up.......but if you have other problems (e.g. PH, element deficiencies) is all you are going to get. Do a search here on amending sandy soil......that might help too. Some of the members on this board are very good at 'soil 101'.

  4. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,969


    If you pour about 4 to 6 oz of Milorganite in the hole before plugging you will have great success plugging St Augustine.
  5. Green Dreams

    Green Dreams LawnSite Senior Member
    from Texas
    Messages: 593

    Mr. Ric, I hope you ride damage free thru this bad mofo heading your way....again. I never would have thought of the milorganite with plugs. What else do you use milorganite for that most of us probably never thought of?

    I had this idea that if you made a mix of elemental sulfur, milorganite and some ammonium sulfate that you would have some mean shrub fert for acid lovers.

    What if you drilled holes around pine trees and filled the holes with this mix?

  6. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,969

    Green Dreams

    Walmart has the best price on Milorganite at $ 5.97 a 40 lb bag in my area. I use enough of it to shop for a good price. Every install job I do gets Milorganite in the hole on all plants except palm trees. It does not burn roots.

    Ammonium sulfate is proven to give better color on Turf Grass than Urea. Howeverb it is also a fast release and would burn if applied to heavy. BTW it doesn't take much. Sulfur is a great element but once again it depends on your soil. There are better acid loving fertilizers on the market that your mix.
  7. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,969

    Green Dreams

    I just re-read your post and my answer. First I was tired and didn't pick up on the PINE tree. I hope you mean evergreens. Pine trees really don't need any more fert in my area and are rather dirty.

    I said acid loving fertilizer and mean Acid forming fertilizer for acid loving plants. Now as a general rule (not Always) any fertilizer with a 2% Chlorine will be an acid forming fertilizer. If the chlorine content is higher then it is not always acid forming. Chlorine is a by product of cheaper element forms that are used in Fertilizer.
  8. goforgreen2

    goforgreen2 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 57

    ron, generally when applying with low volume sprayer, you mix at a rate of one gal. a thousand ie. 3 oz. per thousand would equal 3 oz. per every gal. you want to spray (remember, this is estimated). I agree with the others about the PH. If you have access to your County Extension Office, they can do a PH test for around 3 bucks and a pretty quick turn around time. Before you keep throwing money and time at it , find out what you are dealing with, get it corrected. It will be a whole lot easier.
  9. Ron95gt

    Ron95gt LawnSite Member
    Messages: 24

    Thanks for the replies everybody. I will definately try to find out where to get the soil tested. I've dealt with transplanting St. "A" for over 20 years, so I thought I was pretty cocky in knowing how to nurture it. But, I bring 8" square plugs over here, about 100 at a time, and within a week, they get light green with yellow tips. Don't seem to croak, just look unhealthy. Wonder how they treated the soil here when they grew peanuts? Maybe I can look that up. Anyway, I found a jug of premixed iron, nitrogen, etc. called Ironite. Gonna try that on one of the more establishe patches. I'm ashamed to say how small of a dose of iron I tried on a dozen plugs with the pump sprayer yesterday(after reading the dose "goforgreen" suggested), lol.
    But, it's alot of work transplanting these bastards from 36 miles away, and I wanted to error on the side of caution. Definately a new and intriguing puzzle, after all these years of messing with St. "A". But, I'm determined to show these country folk what manicured acres of this stuff looks like compared to their scalped, field grass yards. :cool2:
  10. heritage

    heritage LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,351

    Did a little research on Peanut Culture on Va. Soils and learned that Peanuts use a lot of Calcium from the soil as they devolop. Now I have seen the whitish brown tips on new seeded lawns where the builders sold off the topsoil and then seeded on graded subsoil without doing a soil test and adding the elements in short supply.....Here in north-central new jersey calcium is often one of the elements needed, sometimes 100 lbs per acre.
    When Calcium is low, Aluminum is more available to the plants and TOXIC to grass plants. As everyone else here has suggested Go to your local cooperative extension with a cup full of soil taken from 2-3 inches below and have it tested as this will help you find the problem. Also Peanuts have Nematode (microscopic worms) problems and certain herbicides used to prevent weeds during peanut production may be causing problems as well.
    Your cooperative extension agent will know history of the farm where you planted the St.Aug. Plugs, and will help you find the answers you need.
    Ric's idea about the milorganite is great and by the way milorganite has Calcium and Iron in an available form in it, so while you are figuring out what the problem is with the soil , why not pull up a few of those troubled plugs and follow his recommendations and see what happens,
    Enjoy the new learning experance,

    Pete D.

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