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Autofill Valve Problem Need Help???

Discussion in 'Water Features' started by FNCPonds, Aug 13, 2007.

  1. FNCPonds

    FNCPonds LawnSite Member
    Messages: 46

    Ok, So here i go. The past few ponds i have put in i went ahead and added a fill valve just cause it get to 100 here regularly. But, my problem has been every sprinkler line I hook it up to winds up only working when the sprinklers are on. And since you can only water your yard 2 twice a week that is alot of water lose. The last one I just went ahead and hooked the fill valve up to the water hose. So is that going to be like that all the time or do you guys know of a way i can check to see if the line stays pressured or what? ANY AND ALL replys would be greatly appreciated.
  2. landscaperbob

    landscaperbob LawnSite Member
    Messages: 41

    I usually just bury a real good quality hose to my skimmer box along pond perimeter to an outside faucet. Put fittings on so you can easily disconnect @ skimmer box for winter & drain. As far as checking for pressure....hold down your float ? I really don't think you need a lot of pressure.
  3. LandArts

    LandArts LawnSite Member
    from 7b
    Messages: 20

    If the customer has irrigation we put the water feature on drip. It might take two or three emitters to do the job.
  4. steve5966

    steve5966 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 210

    If it's new construction have them add a valve and a dedicated line to the pond. Existing yard you can add a valve and a line it's a pain and can be pricey.
  5. bobw

    bobw LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 807

    I've pulled many dedicated lines to pond systems so that they can be connected to float valves. It can be a major pain in an existing irrigated yard to get a dedicated line installed, but as you've discovered, not using one just doesn't work.
  6. n2h20

    n2h20 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 503

    I would add another valve to the rest of the sprinkler valves. Or you may be able to remove a faucet add a tee, replace the faucet/spickot and run a dedicated line to the pond.
    I like adding a few drips lines to the pond. Easy and you dont have to worry about the floater valve sticking or getting damaged and killing the fish.
    You shouldn't be loosing more than 4-6 inches a week.... yes even with 100+ plus temps daily... Unless you have an unordinarily "splashy" waterfall.
  7. mdvaden

    mdvaden LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,946

    If you are already on a backflow device, go right to the mainline which should always be pressurized.

    My mother in law is on a well, so I took 100' of the thick drip line tube and connected to a faucet. Likewise, I added an extra sprinkler to her lawn zone and dedicated it to the water feature body of water and misting the rocks to keep the moss greener.

    If the water feature is within short reach of several zones, you can route a line for dirt cheap from each zone to fill it and water the rock. As long as the zones are not already maxed-out.

    Many autofill valves have an intake for the 1/4" tube. As well as similar float valves at hardware stores for evaporative coolers etc..

    The 1/4" tube I put on the brass parts to the pressurized side of a system with a backflow device, just needs a clamp. There is thin tube and thick tube. That's the thick stuff. The brass fittings and "T" were matched up at Lowe's plumbing department.

    Or, the other option is the float valves that use 1/2" or so PVC on the inlet, and just route that to the pressurized side of the line.

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