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B&S INTEK 10 hp on Little Wonder blowers - FAIL!

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by DaHapster, Oct 23, 2008.

  1. DaHapster

    DaHapster LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    Hi all,

    I'm new to this cool site. I'm a mechanic with a large firm in Ohio.

    Today's query is this: What is up with these Briggs motors? We're two weeks into leaf cleanup here and I have three Little Wonders in here with siezed exhaust valves, bent pushrods, a valve seal that popped out, etc. This has been going on for two seasons now, since I started here.

    I've shortened the service interval to 15 - 20 hours and governed the machines down a bit and this has helped, but not solved this issue.

    I've called B&S twice now to get an answer or solution, but they are acting like they never heard of this. Little Wonder simply gave no answer at all and directed me to B&S.

    Anyone else experience this?

    I'm about to remove these engines in favor of Hondas, but if there's an updated head out there for the INTEK I'd like to save the cash.


  2. All_Toro_4ME

    All_Toro_4ME LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,578

    The B&S Vanguards are the commercial engines. Thats whats on my chipper and havent had any problems. Not familiar with the Intek B&S, but I dont think thats commercial grade.
  3. jkason

    jkason LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 546

    The Inteks are the replacement for all the other engines they used to make.
    They have an Intek Pro, which is equivalent to the old I/C rating.

    I think that they push out so many Inteks, that QC suffers a little.
  4. DaHapster

    DaHapster LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    Anyone have a TSB for this? How about a casting nuber for a head that doesn't fall apart?
  5. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 963

    I'm not too heavy into additives, but you might add a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil or a bit of 2 stroke oil to the fuel (200:1?) to try to prevent the valves seizing and thus bending the push rods

    Not a fix, but it might keep them running when you need them!
  6. edward sprocket

    edward sprocket LawnSite Member
    from uk
    Messages: 13

    it sounds like your engines are over heating for what ever reason. check your valve tip clearance is correct. head bolts are tight. check carb/ air filter/ block gaskets. carb is adjusted correctly, check for no loose or holed exhaust.check plug colour. what fuel are you using.
    bent valves alone point to valve timing or piston valve contact due to over revving but im not sure if this would be poss on bs engine but poss. if valve clearance way off i suppose. valve seats coming lose on the old engiines was commom when they were working hard. that would over heat the valves. hope this helps some.
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2008
  7. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 963

    The problem isn't over revving.
    The valve sticks open, which results in too much slop in the valve train. So, instead of the "ball" fitting into the "socket" on the rockers/push rods, it catches on the edge. Next stroke of the push rod and it tries to push the valve further open, but the valve can't move any further,
  8. ricky86

    ricky86 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,123

    The problem was a clear cut defect. Your regional distributor will do everything in their power to reject any warranty. Problem was excessive heat building in the upper end. New head has better oil circulation,more fins and different shroud. But there is probably severe overheating of the cylinder. Ones I've done, maybe 2/3 suffered from excessive oil consumption after new head. Just remember the brand. We sold a ton of Giant-Vac with that engine on it. The same problem you have, along with broken cranks (internally) Can you say KAWASAKI
  9. viper00085

    viper00085 LawnSite Member
    from NC/VA
    Messages: 237

    i too have seen a bunch of moved valve guides and popped out seats in our service depts across the southeast. Of course anytime a guide or seat comes out it can be blamed on overheating. The alum expands faster than the steel guide or seat and bam you loose your interferrence fit and they come loose.

    Now with the overheating i cant say that we can blame the operator, maintenece or use for every failure.. But if your engines are running lean (slightly clogged carb or gasket leak) the cylinder head temp will go up quickly and may be a cause also. A really white or reddish insulator color on the plug is a good indicator of lean running. BUt also For a while briggs was replacing heads with complete upgrade kits (part#698040). it included a head, gasket set, new blower housing, and the air shield that bolts over the head. They also covered quite a few of them under wty. This tells me they had a cooling air flow issue, and with those new parts they were trying to get more air to the head to cool it. I remember doing most of these on 2005-2006 engines. Seems the 07+ are not having much issues. Unfort that 698040 is not avail anymore, but it is superseded to just a new head (793009). I cant say for sure if they changed anything on the head but i would believe they prolly changed some of the press fits for tighter clearances, air flow and oil flow areas.

    If you do have older 04-06 engines, with a little bit of homework we can prolly find the new blower housing and cyl shield numbers of newer engines and you can install them with the 793009 head and hopefully eliminate any futher issues. Or if you can get through to briggs and explain you kind of know there was an issue with a certain range of engines, they may be able to goodwill some wty or parts.
  10. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

    Well at least now I don't feel so bad...
    I had problems with my 10hp Intek I/C on my billy goat blower since day one,
    every single season I had either down time or below par performance, every fall!
    Long story short, after dealing with this *&%^ for 5-6 years it got to the point
    I wanted a reason to replace it.
    So I 'forgot' to service the oil towards the end of one season both as the
    ultimate test of synthetics and, if it blew, I had my reason.
    And, one day as it was running on maybe a 1/2 pint of very black oil...
    It blew :p

    I replaced it with the 10hp Intek Pro I/C, OHV, LOS, Recoil Start
    Right away I was like WTF!
    Way better engine, the entire design is a much better fit,
    even a fool as myself could see right away THIS is the engine
    that should have been put on THIS blower in the first place!
    It's the glove that fits the hand, for real.

    So what bugs me today isn't so much the Briggs side of the coin,
    because that the I/C is a POS is bad enough, but all right, fine.

    If customers have noticed this problem...
    WHY do LW and BG keep plopping these POS engines on their blowers!??!
    Hell the Pro doesn't even cost more, if maybe 20 or 50 bucks, on a thousand dollar blower who cares?
    That's my beef.
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2008

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