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Before I lock it in - is this walkway OK?

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by H3AdBaBY, Jul 15, 2007.

  1. H3AdBaBY

    H3AdBaBY LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    I'm a Happy Homeowner about to complete my first hardscape project. It has been quite an education to say the least. If any of you pro's could take a quick look and point out any errors before I sweep in the polysand and lock in my blunders I'd be grateful.


  2. H3AdBaBY

    H3AdBaBY LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    great... posted in the wrong forum.. and I can't figure out how to delete or move it. sorry...
  3. tthomass

    tthomass LawnSite Gold Member
    from N. VA
    Messages: 3,497

    Looks like you did a good job. Better then some of what we see posted by 'pros' on here. I assume there is a dip in the driveway? If that is he garage to the right......you could continue across the front of the garage.

    If your base is solid and everything as should be lock it in. Good job!

    Be carefull with the poly, MIST with water.
  4. mrusk

    mrusk LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,260

    Base is not extended far enough and it looks like the edging was installed on top of the sand and not the base material.
  5. H3AdBaBY

    H3AdBaBY LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    Thanks for the comments. While there is indeed a small dip where the asphalt meets the pavers it is more illusion than reality. The house was built in 1973 (we've lived here for 3 years) and original concrete driveway had cracked (due to being 3"-4" concrete poured directly on clay?). A previous owner had asphalt applied on top of the concrete which has subsequently cracked and chipped along the edges. The pavers are level with a pitch from doorway to driveway and toward the grass. Once I get the pavers locked in I'll remove the rotten asphalt, patch and seal the entire driveway. The walkway will then be flush and level with the driveway. Not an ideal solution but replacing the driveway is not in the budget this year.

    The base extends 8"-12" beyond the pavers and the edge restraint is nailed directly to the base. I've spent too much time reading the posts on this site to make those mistakes! Haha! It doesn't appear that way because the crabgrass has grown over it a bit since I started this project in May 2006. After an extended series of unpleasant surprises that resulted in rerouting and replacing over 200 feet of drain pipe and digging out close to 10 cubic yards of broken concrete chunks, half rotted tree limbs and other debris that doesn't come close to being legit backfill, I ran out of time and money the end of October 2006. However, I am finally about to complete this project, and not a moment too soon. The wife is already planning the landscaping! I guess I'd better not put the tools away to quickly.
  6. copeblk

    copeblk LawnSite Member
    Messages: 85

    take a picture of #1 loos like your soilder course does some funky things here and #2 pull last paver of soilder course out(towards lawn) and cut in a wedge. tried to show how. other than that looks great.

  7. 1MajorTom

    1MajorTom Former Moderator
    Messages: 6,073

    Sorry, just saw this now, moved it over to the hardscaping forum you.
  8. D Felix

    D Felix LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,898

    I don't agree with copeblk's #2 suggestion at all. Leave that corner piece the way it is.

    It's hard to tell from the one pic, but if you don't have the edge restraint nailed at least every 12-14", you need more spikes! Do that before you sweep in sand and compact.
  9. tthomass

    tthomass LawnSite Gold Member
    from N. VA
    Messages: 3,497

    #1 is an outline of a landing in an arch going from wall to wall......just achitecture

    #2 would look odd......everything is solid, whole pieces
  10. D Felix

    D Felix LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,898

    Oh, one more thing- paint your SDR 35 downspout drain to match/blend with the siding! It sticks out like a sore thumb right now!!! :) :waving:

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