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Best splice method for concealment

Discussion in 'Landscape Lighting' started by jlouki01, May 3, 2011.

  1. jlouki01

    jlouki01 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 453

    I am working on a project where I am mounting some deck lighting. I obviously don't want to use silicone filled wire nuts. I was thinking of solder and heat shrink but will that hold up over time? Found some Krimpa Seal connectors online and was referred to those by a friend.. Just wanted to see what you guys use.
  2. niteliters

    niteliters LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 537

    exceptional connector, exceptional performance, low profile, built to last...luilt by the working man for the working man :).
  3. jlouki01

    jlouki01 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 453

    You are the king of hidden my friend:)
  4. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    almost all deck lights I have done have long enough leads to put the connections under the deck. from time to time I have done heat shrink inside the fixture to do a long enough lead to put the connection to hub to where you can get to it. I'm just not a big fan of a connection that is inside a post or piece of trim on a deck.
  5. jlouki01

    jlouki01 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 453

    You'd have to see this deck to understand but it's a million different levels almost nowhere to hide wire. I tried some of the heat shrink butt splices, they were ok probably won't use them again. I put black heat shrink over top of them so you couldn't see the yellow-ish butt splice. Took forever to heat the butt splice then heat the shrink tubing.
  6. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    I just noticed way back in the day that nearly all lights have heat shrink inside the fixture from the original socket lead wire to the 16 or 18 guage lead wires we see coming out the exit point of the fixture itself. I have never seen any kind of locking brass connector like ace or lightingshrink inside a fixture at this connection. They mainly are just spliced, twisted and heatshrinked inside. I use 100% silicone to seal the wire coming out of the fixture. I would heat shrink whatever lead you need to get you to your hub. you can buy 16 guage lead cord in bulk 500ft rolls for about 1/2 what 12 guage is running.

    for many decks is is just easier to drill and hide 16g wire.
  7. Richie@

    Richie@ LawnSite Member
    Messages: 187

    Method I have used to hide wiring for deck Lighting with 25-30 foot Lead wire is to router out a board of the same deck material ( Salt Treated or Cedar) with 45 angle cut at the top 3 inches above where the cable exits the 4x4 or 6x6 on post mount , then stapled to post and run to under the deck for connection , then brass screws or galvanized finish nails to hold it in place , it seems to be
    the best way to hide cables if the customer is OK with it rather than drilling zig zag holes in a post , another way would be router the post an use a filler but that can be a difficult task.

  8. INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting

    INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,102

    We build custom trims quite often. Rip a 2x4x10 into 3/4" wide strips and then dado a channel up the middle of the wide side. Cut to fit on site and tacked on with finishing nails. stain, paint or finish to match the deck.
  9. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    a portable table saw is the perfect tool for this task. It allows you to rip the deck material, then cross cut it to length, then lower the blade for a dado with a few passes on the back of trim for the wire. an electric brad tacker from harbor freight pins the trim with 1 1/4 inch 18g nails and costs about 50 bucks. I also have an air nailer for longer nails if I need it, but it is just more tools to bring. my first table saw was a cheap black and decker that cost about 100 bucks new and unfortunately is just about worn out, and I will be buying a new one soon. my next one will have the wheels and stand built in and is at Lowes for about 300 bucks. It is really what I should have bought first.
  10. jlouki01

    jlouki01 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 453

    I ended up picking up a spool of 18ga and extending all my leads a little. It was way easier to hide and route.

    Then I just connected it all with 12ga.

    Used some heat shrink butt splice in some places. Kinda of hard to work with.

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