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There seems to be a lot of threads on this site for this, have you searched them?

If in the end you're still undecided, then consider Chapin Pro 8400c or 8401c so you can let me know how it is before I buy one! :laugh:
 
The Chapin has the cheaper type of main axle bearing. The end is hammered flat and a hole is drilled in it to accommodate a bushing and the axle.
The Earthway FS80 has inter changeable trays for spreading rock salt--and a height adjustable handle. Again cheap bushing.

The Prizelawn has the more expensive bearing setup. Ball bearings, (like Lesco), both cost more.

https://www.earthway.com/shop/prizelawn-70lb-stainless-steel-broadcast-spreader/
 
The Chapin has the cheaper type of main axle bearing. The end is hammered flat and a hole is drilled in it to accommodate a bushing and the axle.
The Earthway FS80 has inter changeable trays for spreading rock salt--and a height adjustable handle. Again cheap bushing.

The Prizelawn has the more expensive bearing setup. Ball bearings, (like Lesco), both cost more.

https://www.earthway.com/shop/prizelawn-70lb-stainless-steel-broadcast-spreader/
Thanks for the overview. I noticed most of the same.

I haven't spread rock salt in over 20 years considering it's harmful to pavers, lawns, shrubs, trees, and the environment. And I probably don't need to tell you salt doesn't work in extra cold temps. Calcium chloride or similar, and that comes in granule sizes very similar to fertilizer. So no problem there, especially with the SS frame.

So ignoring that on paper it seems like PrizeLawn is $200 extra for ball bearings.

BUT we all know specs on paper don't tell the whole story. So I'm hoping to hear from someone with hands on experience with it. (There doesn't seem to be a retailer around carrying the Chapin.)
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the overview. I noticed most of the same.

I haven't spread rock salt in over 20 years considering it's harmful to pavers, lawns, shrubs, trees, and the environment. And I probably don't need to tell you salt doesn't work in extra cold temps. Calcium chloride or similar, and that comes in granule sizes very similar to fertilizer. So no problem there, especially with the SS frame.

So ignoring that on paper it seems like PrizeLawn is $200 extra for ball bearings.

BUT we all know specs on paper don't tell the whole story. So I'm hoping to hear from someone with hands on experience with it. (There doesn't seem to be a retailer around carrying the Chapin.)
i only hear good things about the lesco
 
I'm going to pickup a spreader as well. Looking at the Spyker Ergo Pro Stainless version. I'm pretty sure that's what it's called. Seems pretty nice and I have a local dealer. Anyone have experience with these? Not trying to hijack your thread...
 
Does any spreader reduce the amount of media output when the deflection guard is active/engaged to match the reduced spread area?

If not and they're simply deflecting/blocking the media going in a particular direction then it seems a significant amount of extra media will be dropped (at least 25%). Considering the edges typically get extra media anyway (because each pass overlaps the perimeter), now it's like 2x extra. In this case are operators supposed to manually reduce drop rate accordingly for edge passes?
 
Of the spreaders which feature deflectors for an edge pattern--the best type also has a hole cover which blocks the correct port. Contolled by a push-pull cable. Remember the blocked opening port is usually on the opposite side of the deflector. Deflector on the right, then the blocked hole is on the left.
This is because the port on the left controls the flow of material to the right. That is--if--the platter spins counter clockwise--Lesco, Andersons, and Prizelawn. I think.
Earthway now also builds Prizelawn spreaders.
Anybody know? Do Chapin and Spyker spin clockwise? What about Toro? Steelgreen, Earthway? Actually after reviewing Allyn Haynes video--I think the Earthway spins counter-clockwise.

Myself, I am usually happy with a bit extra on the edges--that is where the most crabgrass sprouts.
 
Of the spreaders which feature deflectors for an edge pattern--the best type also has a hole cover which blocks the correct port.
Thanks Riggle. Does the hole pattern adjust in unison with the guard, or are they independent?

I'm disappointed in the lack of documentation from the spreader manufacturers. For example Prizelawn CBRIVSS doesn't even have the product's physical dimensions online(!)

Anybody know? Do Chapin and Spyker spin clockwise?
Based on images... Chapin 840Xc is counterclockwise, Spyker S60-12020 is clockwise, tow-behind looks counterclockwise.

Myself, I am usually happy with a bit extra on the edges--that is where the most crabgrass sprouts.
Same, but that's done already via the end of each pass overlapping the perimeter (combined is effectively 200% prescribed rate). The guard will add about 50% more on top. I know it's the typical process. Expected the high end spreaders would have this taken care of, but I see that some (including some lesco) don't even have a guard included, it's an optional accessory.
 
I bought an old Lesco at an auction 8 years ago. Put a few parts in it and decided it would be good enough to "get started" I mow all of my properties and a few local old timer's yards. I only treat my own properties, but that spreader is bullet proof. Buy once, cry once... Buy cheap, buy twice. A used lesco is better than a new cheap spreader.
 
For push spreader, i find the Lesco high wheel to be excellent. Have never seen a spot of rust on one and with break through agitator you save yourself some headaches. I. Have a Spyker on my ride on and it has clogged on me once, but has very fine adjustability for micro products.
 
My old Scotts/Andersens spreader had two ball bearings at each end of the axle. I was in favor of ball bearings at first--however they get rusty. It is best to replace them every year--you need four.
Large, welded "pipe bearings" with nylon bushings and grease fittings, are probably better. They do not rust.

The platter is a wear item. You may need a new one each year or two. Remove wheels, remove axle and gears, knock out retaining pin. An hours job--took me two hours.

Two years later, I heard on Lawnsite that you can unbolt and raise the hopper and therefore replace the platter (spinner, impeller) easily. In theory, a 30 minute job.

Anybody, how long does it take to replace the impeller?

In winter, we sometimes replaced the gears on older spreaders when I worked at Turgren, 1976. I found that we really only needed to replace the small gear--since it spins 10 times more often. And it only cost a dollar.
 
I was in favor of ball bearings at first--however they get rusty. It is best to replace them every year--you need four.
Large, welded "pipe bearings" with nylon bushings and grease fittings, are probably better. They do not rust.
Have you tried sealed stainless steel bearings? Roller bearings are better suited for this application than ball bearings, though I don't know if they can retrofit on these spreaders.
 
I have a shindaiwa rs76s, which is effectively a prizelawn.

Been rockin this spreader since 2014. I have the optional deflector for edges. Honestly, it puts out the same product in half the coverage spread, so you'll get some uneven application. Only I notice. You can accommodate for this by pushing faster and throwing farther. But you still need to clean off walkways etc.

Over the years, I have replaced a few roll pins and the gear case cover, only because I let the clips loosen. I grease the nylon bushes every twice a year.

My go to granual fertility is blended with calcitic lime, so you get some build up through out the day. Use a plastic scraper to clean off the lime and it will maintain it throwing consistency.

The gears are plastic and have yet to show signs of wear. I use an expensive ptfe dry lubricant in there per the manual.

The only thing I would change is some taller tires for ease of pushing and the ability to reduce the output for edge application.

Then Anderson's spreader has a provision to reduce output for use with the deflector.

I did a YouTube video a few years back on the maintenance I do on mine, it will also give you a better look at the guts.

 
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