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Once you check your blades on a balancer, how do you go about balancing them? I've seen some with holes drilled in them, but I don't have access to a drill. Any other methods?
Blade Balancing
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Once again, what PETE said. 
But who doesn't own a drill? My brother in law who doesn't know the difference between a hammer and a screwdriver has a drill!
To balance. Sharpen till both sides are sharp. Then install on balancer. The side that drops (and how fast it drops) is the heavy side. Simply grind a few more light passes off that side. Then recheck. Eventually you'll get good at estimating the amount needed to remove.
But who doesn't own a drill? My brother in law who doesn't know the difference between a hammer and a screwdriver has a drill!
To balance. Sharpen till both sides are sharp. Then install on balancer. The side that drops (and how fast it drops) is the heavy side. Simply grind a few more light passes off that side. Then recheck. Eventually you'll get good at estimating the amount needed to remove.
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ME ME ME ME!!!Originally posted by TLS
Once again, what PETE said.
But who doesn't own a drill?
When i need stuff done with a drill i have my brother come over. he does a lot of carpentry stuff. I guess i've never really found the need for one...........until now
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you still don't need a drill. I have found that a big ballpeen hammer works quite nicely.
the "heavy end" of the blade is the "fat end" of the blade.
whack the fat end of the blade with the ballpeen hammer and it will become slightly smaller with each whack. it is only a question of how many whacks to deliver.
it helps to have a tree stump or cinder block handy to use as an anvil.
works for me.
GEO
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[the "heavy end" of the blade is the "fat end" of the blade.
whack the fat end of the blade with the ballpeen hammer and it will become slightly smaller with each whack. it is only a question of how many whacks to deliver.
it helps to have a tree stump or cinder block handy to use as an anvil.
works for me.
GEO [/B][/QUOTE]
How does that change the excessive weight on that particular part of the blade? Am I missing something? I'm not a blacksmith or anything but a grinder always works for me!
whack the fat end of the blade with the ballpeen hammer and it will become slightly smaller with each whack. it is only a question of how many whacks to deliver.
it helps to have a tree stump or cinder block handy to use as an anvil.
works for me.
GEO [/B][/QUOTE]
How does that change the excessive weight on that particular part of the blade? Am I missing something? I'm not a blacksmith or anything but a grinder always works for me!
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I would just put some of them sticky celing fan weights on the light side....or some gum...that should work.
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How does that change the excessive weight on that particular part of the blade? Am I missing something? I'm not a blacksmith or anything but a grinder always works for me! [/B][/QUOTE]
kauffman--the whacking with a hammer is an alternative to ultimate lawns drilling holes in the blade to balance the blade.
as you whack the heavy end...it gets smaller and therefore weighs less and more in balance.
no trade secrets here.
GEO
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i'm with darryl on this one!
that metal has gotta go somewhere if it's not flying apart, and if it's still there, it's still weight. i can't imagine being able to do that to a good blade though, being almost 1/4 inch thick.
that metal has gotta go somewhere if it's not flying apart, and if it's still there, it's still weight. i can't imagine being able to do that to a good blade though, being almost 1/4 inch thick.
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Just use a grinder. You have to lighten the heavy side and hitting it with a hammer won't do any good. If anything you'll end up changing the shape/dimensions of the blade making it cut like garbage. Plus, the heavy side will still be too heavy because the same amount of metal is still there. Be careful using a grinder. You can heat up the edge of the blade too much making the metal brittle.
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A tip for you guys, If you will find the heavy end BEFORE you start grinding and do it first then do the light end they sharpen easier. This is a tip from the mag-matic site.
Now me I "hand draw" the edge, that is to say I take geogunns hammer and heat the blade to red hot and beat an edge on it. Then I retemper the blade in liquid nitrogen cooling it to -173 degrees celcieus it takes a few hours for each blade.
:dizzy:
Jim
Now me I "hand draw" the edge, that is to say I take geogunns hammer and heat the blade to red hot and beat an edge on it. Then I retemper the blade in liquid nitrogen cooling it to -173 degrees celcieus it takes a few hours for each blade.
:dizzy:
Jim
FYI,
That's exactly what you don't want to do. Think about why. True, the blade will balance statically, "similar to playing on a seesaw with the lighter person moving out to compensate", BUT........ The lighter blade is "still lighter", and when you start spinning it you find a vibration. This is difference between static and dynamic balancing,
Pete
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