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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On all three of my Scag Walk behinds I am constantly replacing blade belts @ 40-60 Hrs. My dealer tells me I am the only guy he knows with this problem. The belts crack through from the inside and finally break through the outside. Any thoughts?
 

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How many have you gone through? Where are you getting them? Your dealer? I think I would be trying a different source. Also, I would think a practicle explanation would be the pulley allignment, but it is highly unlikely on two machines. Adjustment may be another. If they are a bit loose, this causes heat whick then weakens the fiber and ultimately causes premature failure.
 

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i know what you mean, last year on my 36'' scag i went through 2 blade belts in 5 months. thats crazy, i've operated scag my whole mowing career and never went through belts like that. this year i haven't busted not a one. i checked the spindles and pulleys for maybe some jagged edges or something, but nothing. the only thing different that i did was not tighten the belt as much.
 

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kevinsky said:
On all three of my Scag Walk behinds I am constantly replacing blade belts @ 40-60 Hrs. My dealer tells me I am the only guy he knows with this problem. The belts crack through from the inside and finally break through the outside. Any thoughts?
Don't know about the Scag (except that they are a fine product), but around here if you are consistantly breaking belts you are probably cutting grass that is very tall or wet. I would think this would be the case with any mower. In other words you are overworking the belt, and this would cause wear from the inside and breakage.

Sounds like since you are having the same problem with both mowers you don't have a mechanical problem, but that it would be from the grass.

Like to hear what you find out. Are you having to cut exceptionally tall grass?
 

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Very common misconception about belts is that tighter is better.

Actually you want to run the belts as loose as possbile without them falling off. You get faster blade tip speed, less wear on the engine and spindles, and you get a better cut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Runner said:
How many have you gone through? Where are you getting them? Your dealer? I think I would be trying a different source. Also, I would think a practicle explanation would be the pulley allignment, but it is highly unlikely on two machines. Adjustment may be another. If they are a bit loose, this causes heat whick then weakens the fiber and ultimately causes premature failure.
I have been going through three per season it seems like on all three machines. I compared the life of aftermarket belts to Scag stock belts and there is no difference in life. If anything, we probably run them loose, but I don't understand why that would wick heat.
 

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kevinsky said:
On all three of my Scag Walk behinds I am constantly replacing blade belts @ 40-60 Hrs. My dealer tells me I am the only guy he knows with this problem. The belts crack through from the inside and finally break through the outside. Any thoughts?
We have the exact same problem on our three scags. This started years ago when we ran scag belts,they would break under 100 hrs and shread into the clutch,pita to clean out. We were using rotary belts,kevelar for years with no problems,175 hrs plus per belt to about 275 hrs then the dealer stoped using rotary and went to "dealers brand" which is also kevelar and is "the same belt as rotary" but the best I have gotten is 109 hrs. We also are the only ones having this problem I am told. I adjust belts once a week after initial break in with one inch of deflection in the belt as told by scag rep. The best part about the kevelar is that they will chunk out and vibrate like crazy so you have time to kill your blades before they break and foul your clutch and knock off the pump belt,or break the idler pulley or as what happened last week it also took out the hydro filter. But just like you, apuzzled look and " No one else ever has had that problem."
If you find the cure,let me know and I will enlighten my dealer. I am at wits end with this problem. We have 11,000 plus on these three machines( by hr meter) and they should last awhile longer.
 

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I still use Scag belts on our 36" WB and no problem and our load is great because we mulch with plate on outlet. No adjustment on our Scag, it has spring loaded idler? Belt failures have always been cracks across the belts but sometimes they run many hours with cracks, so don't understand. I did replace the bearings in the idler pulley pivot because I could see that the Idler was not running square to the belt. I also adjusted the idler down so the belt runs in the center of the idler pulley with the unit adjusted at normal cut height. As normal maintenance I do this type of stuff on all our units. No problem on our Scag Cougar...ran two years 1400hrs on belt.
 

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Hess just brought up the fact that his 36 was doing just fine with his belts which is great. I didn't think to ask the size of the original posters decks or which deck he had. I was refering to the non advantage 52 inch deck with hydro drive,W/b. No problems with the rider's belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Steppenwolf said:
Hess just brought up the fact that his 36 was doing just fine with his belts which is great. I didn't think to ask the size of the original posters decks or which deck he had. I was refering to the non advantage 52 inch deck with hydro drive,W/b. No problems with the rider's belt.
I have two 36 Hydros and one 48 Hydro with only 60 hrs on it and the blade to blade belt broke.
 

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Are the belts actual brand Scag belts or belts from a supplier that are made to size to fit a Scag. There are many different designs in belts and many of those designs will not last long in lawn and garden applications. The small back side idlers break belts fairly quickly if the belt is not constructed properly. My guess is that Scag is using a 4" or smaller back side idler. An excellent belt for this application in the Dayco Super II. You should be able to very easily match this belt up to your mower. The constuction of this belt places the tensile cords in the middle of the belt. This reduces the amount of flexing that is required on small back side idlers. The top and bottom of the belt are also reinforced with sections of fabric. This too helps to prevent cracking. I have seen other belts that place the cord on the top section and then build up the lower portion of the belt with a whole lot of fabric sections (Bobcat/Bunton for example). Bottom line, the belt needs to be designed to prevent cracking. Most of the cloth wrapped belts can't do it for extended periods of time and 100 hours on these belts sounds about right. I hope you get a chance to try the Dayco Super II it should make a huge difference for you.

mowingmachine
 

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Don't know about the guy with 60 hours but you guys with older machines might want to check and see if the belt is just riding on the sides or riding on the middle. I had a power trim edger that was eating belts and finely asked the head mechanic at the shop about it. He told me the belts are only supposed to ride on the sides if the pulley wheels get old and worn and the belt rides on the middle they wear prematurely. Sure enough replaced the wheels and had no problem after that.
 

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This time when the belt broke( last tuesday) I took it to the dealer to let them have a look see to see if I missed something. The only thing they found was that the trim side pulley was just a tad bit low.
I won't use scag blade belts,may have to try the dayco belt once from an old fashion auto parts store,not autozone for sure:) If it weren't for the belt problems this year the machines are just fine,not perfect but are doing a fine and reliable job. Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
mowingmachine said:
Are the belts actual brand Scag belts or belts from a supplier that are made to size to fit a Scag. There are many different designs in belts and many of those designs will not last long in lawn and garden applications. The small back side idlers break belts fairly quickly if the belt is not constructed properly. My guess is that Scag is using a 4" or smaller back side idler. An excellent belt for this application in the Dayco Super II. You should be able to very easily match this belt up to your mower. The constuction of this belt places the tensile cords in the middle of the belt. This reduces the amount of flexing that is required on small back side idlers. The top and bottom of the belt are also reinforced with sections of fabric. This too helps to prevent cracking. I have seen other belts that place the cord on the top section and then build up the lower portion of the belt with a whole lot of fabric sections (Bobcat/Bunton for example). Bottom line, the belt needs to be designed to prevent cracking. Most of the cloth wrapped belts can't do it for extended periods of time and 100 hours on these belts sounds about right. I hope you get a chance to try the Dayco Super II it should make a huge difference for you.

mowingmachine
Thanks, Where can you buy these belts?
 
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