Blades for cutoff saw

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by site, May 7, 2001.

  1. site

    site LawnSite Member
    Messages: 168

    What dry blade is going to give me the best value on a 14" cutoff saw. It will be used mainly for cutting bluestone, and sometimes for brick. Some don't seem to last even though they cost a lot. I don't mind paying if it's going to last.
  2. steveair

    steveair LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,073


    I have tried a few 'specialized', more expensive blades for this but have found a new source. During the winter, I put a lot of bids in on ebay, and won a few 14" blades and a few 12" blades for around 45$ each.

    To tell you the truth, the blades last just as long as the 150-200 dollar blades I use to buy from my supplier (I use to use PARTNER brand blades).

    Maybe you don't have the time to shop ebay, but it was something to keep me entertained between snow storms in the winter. Even if you pay 75(which seems the going rate) on ebay, it seems like they are worth it.

  3. Stonehenge

    Stonehenge LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 1,276

    Paul has probably forgotten more about blades than I'll ever know. Get his input on this.
  4. paul

    paul Lawnsite Addict
    Messages: 1,625

    The blade matrix must match the material, harder material "the stuff that holds the diamonds" is for softer stone and a softer one is for harder material. This is just a guide. you might buy a real expensive blade but if its for soft stone and you use it on hard stone you'll wear it out fast. Your cutting habits also effect the life of the blade, if you hold the saw in the cut for a long time you'll shorten it's life, 30 seconds to a minute is about all you should cut with it then with it running at full speed pull it out of the cut and cool it in the air.
  5. steveair

    steveair LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,073

    Hello again,

    When cutting such things as blue stone and other types of stone, you at least know exactly what it is you are cutting. What I mean is, you can look up manufacturers specs for their blades and use that as a guide for what blade to buy. As paul mentioned, the softness and hardness is usually the big factor, and the wrong blade will wear out fast if it is not spec'd out for the material you are cutting.

    On another note, I will say that I have noticed that during retaining wall projects, I get excessive wear on the blades sometimes. My theory is that some companies do not use a 'specific' mix of aggregate in their concrete mixes for their retaining wall block. We have one company (Grinnel) who quarries their own stone for their concrete while also does a lot of 'recycling' and includes that in the mix. The way I see it, you don't know the hardness of the material in the block, therefore, its impossible to judge what type blade you should use. I've had jobs where after 30 cap cuts, the blade is almost shot, where others I go 100's and it holds up. I swear that sometimes you get a batch of block that is just 'harder' than others.

    For natural stone, however, you should be able to spec out a blade for that specific purpose.

    Also, listen to paul about letting the blade cool down, and also, if your saw is equiped, using water can add to the longevity of the blade. Most saws are including a water adapter kit these days, but even having someone hold a hose over the cut will work too.


    [Edited by steveair on 05-07-2001 at 09:36 PM]
  6. paul

    paul Lawnsite Addict
    Messages: 1,625

    I have had crews chew up two blades in one day cutting brick from a manufacture that uses recycled material, we switched to the next softer matrix and the blades lasted a week cutting. Having the right blades on a job can mean the differance in making money or losing it. We carry 4 types of blades on our trailers, plus fiber blades for ashphalt and metal, add to that 2 sizes 12" and 14" and you start running in to a lot of $$$. Go to where you buy your blades and ask for their book on blades, read it and match the right blade to the job. One more tip check the thickness of your blades and DON'T LEAVE THEM ON YOUR SAWS!!!!!!!
    Most blades wear out because they are damaged in transit a small nick that you might not see will wear out a blade fast. Check your spindles make sure they are true and when you use them on one saw don't change them to another saw, sure way to wear them out fast.

    One day I'm going to write a book on blades :)
    I've bought enough of them........$$$$$$$$$$$$$
  7. Rex Mann

    Rex Mann LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 621


    We use Diamond Products turbo blades. They are expensive but, I have never found any that cut as well or as long. This blade can be used wet or dry. We put the new blade on the wet saw and the wet saw blade goes on the wall saw.

    I like Paul's idea of taking the blades of during transit. Makes alot od sense.


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