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Blending new wall to old yard?

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by 4d_POWER, Sep 6, 2009.

  1. 4d_POWER

    4d_POWER LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    What's a good type of fill I can bring in to add to my yard to blend in the old yard to the new wall I had placed last December.

    Looking to bring in some fill, and compact it down where necessary, then adding topsoil, while sloping the yard a little more to smooth it all out.






  2. forestfireguy

    forestfireguy LawnSite Senior Member
    from nj
    Messages: 601

    Was that wall done by you or a contractor? I can see it looks like it was put in to increase useable space, but why was it left graded like that above? I wouldn't bring in fill. I'd either terrace the wall with another shorter one above or grade the whole yard in a more gentle way to the top of the wall. Kind of surprised a contractor would leave it looking like that at all. If you consider the cost and labor involved in moving fill up there and then topsoil I think grading would be a better choice. Can you get a small excavator or skidsteer up on top ? If not a larger excavator could do it from the bottom.
  3. 4d_POWER

    4d_POWER LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    This job was done in January, in MD, and it was unable to be graded and filled at that time due to the weather. The wall was done by a contractor, i've tried and tried to get him back out here but to no avail. The last time I talked to him in early June he Promised Promised Promised he'd be there in 2 weeks...LOL. I guess he doesn't want to be bothered with this little job. I'm not here to cut on a contractor though. He did great with the wall. Enough's enough, time to get it fixed.

    If you look at the 3rd pic, there is a sidewalk there where the wheelbarrow is,
    that part will need some fill and slope.

    I can get a termite up on top, my plan was to grade it a little, but I'd like to know what kind of fill would be good to use.

  4. shovelracer

    shovelracer LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,008

    You came here for advice right. Here is some good advice. Rip that thing out and have it done over. There is no way that the wall has geogrid judging from the cut. Backfilling it will only add load causing it to fail faster. In addition the drain rock should be wrapped and it is not. The wall appears to already be bowing above the white car, if it is it is only a matter of time till it comes crashing down.

    Your options are:
    1) wait till it comes down, and hope that the company is still around to be sued for repair and damage.


    2) Get an engineer in there to design it right. Take the existing as a loss and shell out 3-4 times the original price to have it done properly.
  5. forestfireguy

    forestfireguy LawnSite Senior Member
    from nj
    Messages: 601

    Racer is right..........Thats good advice. I didn't want to get into the wall job and risk being insulting. Did your town require a permit for that? Here if it's over 4ft it's gotta have a permit and stamped plans from an engineer. You should ride your contractor harder, you paid him to do a job, it's not done. If he made a concession in price thats the only way I could see letting it go, BUT, I wouldn't want people seeing a job I did finished like that. If you go ahead on your own a teramite is not the machine for the job, I'd prefer a mini ex, a track skid would be my second choice. Anyway, good luck......
  6. 4 seasons lawn&land

    4 seasons lawn&land LawnSite Gold Member
    from NY
    Messages: 3,613

    you came to the wrong place... most will try to bash the taj mahal if they didn't build it. Get ready to sort through some BS.

    Any aggregate stone is fine, it looks from the pic that you would be fine to go ahead with top soil from there but you cant tell exactly from the pic.
  7. 4d_POWER

    4d_POWER LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    ok hold up ya'll are freaking me out..

    If by geogrid you mean square looking plastic like fabric. The wall is geogridded every 2 courses at least 4 feet behind the wall.
    There was drain line buried and also some of the lower blocks were holesawed and have pvc drain pipe in them.
    The base course was sunk in almost a whole block.
    As for wrapping the drain rock, I have no idea about that.
    Everything looked like it was done in a professional manner with a knowledgeable builder.
    The builder is very experienced and has over 200 walls in the tri-state area using this system. Maybe that's why he hasn't come back, too busy building more walls.

    Looking at the wall up close I can see no bowing at all.

    Thanks for your advice. I appreciate it.
  8. shovelracer

    shovelracer LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,008

    Got any pics of the construction?
  9. Lite4

    Lite4 LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,173

    If it were me I think I would build a second shorter wall above the first and use the area in between as a real nice planter. The grade just looks too high still from the top of the soil line to the top of the wall to really get a usable grade on it. However, if this is the course of action you are leaning towards I would put in either a good drainable gravel or some clay based subsoil and pack the heck out of it with a wacker about every 8-10" you fill so you don't have much settling when you start watering everything. It still looks like you have about a 5-6' drop from the sidewalk to the top of the wall. My 1st recomendation is still just another short wall behind the first one.
  10. 4d_POWER

    4d_POWER LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    here's another pic, the distance on the tape is 14 feet at the widest point.

    Also I put up a pic of the wall.



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