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Bobcat ZT 223 Kawa Not Starting

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by sdunlimited, Jul 21, 2011.

  1. sdunlimited

    sdunlimited LawnSite Member
    Messages: 16


    A family member recently picked up this mower used and got about 8-10 sessions in before it decided to not start.
    Turning the key switch yields nothing. Here's what I'm finding:

    Key switch has 12V on the red wire coming in
    Turning the key to on or start causes the 12V to come off that pole altogether and no other poles have 12V on them

    I thought it was a bad switch at first but installed another today and got the same results.

    Both fuses from under the seat were cut out by the previous owner. They're just taped off w/electrical tape and don't terminate anywhere.
    I've got two new fuse holders to put in there but haven't done it yet -- the mower was running fine without them previously but I'd like to get the wiring back to stock for ease of troubleshooting in the future.

    I've got the wiring diagram for this from the manual but I'm honestly not sure how all the safety switches play into this issue if at all.

    Can anyone give me info on what to look for or how I can go about tracing this back to the component that's causing the trouble?
    For example, if everything is as it should be for startup - rider in the seat, parking brake on, steering bars out to the side - What is the correct route for 12V getting to the starter?

    Any help, info or direction is greatly appreciated. I'm stumped so far but have the tools and ambition to get this fixed.


  2. sdunlimited

    sdunlimited LawnSite Member
    Messages: 16

    After reading this post (http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=356067) about a near identical problem, I just tried shorting the two posts across the top of the solenoid - she sparked real good and I didn't hear the starter move at all.

    I've got 12V coming into the solenoid on the big wire directly from the battery - and that post reads 12V. That second post that links to the starter reads ~0V. I'm guessing that second post is grounding out due to a safety switch...? Or is that not normal?

  3. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

  4. sdunlimited

    sdunlimited LawnSite Member
    Messages: 16

    Thanks for this - it will be helpful for letting me know what it should look like. The wiring is a little hacked up from the previous owner. I'll start tracing back one piece at a time and hopefully find the culprit.
  5. pugs

    pugs LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,024

    This is the start circuit for your machine.

  6. sdunlimited

    sdunlimited LawnSite Member
    Messages: 16

    Thanks for this diagram - should be much easier to trace now!
  7. sdunlimited

    sdunlimited LawnSite Member
    Messages: 16

    I'm still having some trouble trying to track down this issue. Here's what I'm finding now:

    I get a solid 12.6v on the Red wire going into the starter/key switch
    I get 12.6v to the solenoid via thick red cable
    I tested and got ground at:
    -- Orange wire out of the starter/key switch
    -- Orange/brown wire leaving the PTO switch
    -- Purple/Orange wire leaving the RH control lever
    -- Orange/Purple wire leaving the LH control lever
    -- Brown wire leaving the brake switch
    -- same brown wire as it terminates at the starter relay

    Where I'm having trouble - and I don't know why this is or what's causing it - is the Yellow wire coming out of the starter/key switch.
    With the key in the OFF position, testing the Yellow wire at the switch has the mulitmeter jumping around in the mV range - basically indicating nothing's there.
    When I turn the key to the START position, the reading drops to zero. Shouldn't this read 12v in the START position?
    This happens with the existing starter/key switch and a brand new one I just picked up.

    I think I've isolated this to somewhere between the starter/key switch and the starter relay but I'm not sure which one is necessarily causing the problem or if I'm missing something.

    Also, I was able to get the starter to turn over by jumping the Yellow wire at the solenoid directly to the positive battery terminal. This indicated to me that the starter and solenoid where still OK.

    Any ideas?
  8. pugs

    pugs LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,024

    All of that wiring gets 12 volts when the key switch is in the ON or START positions. And if you dont have 12 volts flowing through all of them, it will not energize the starter relay and you will never get 12 volts to the starter solenoid.
  9. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

    uhm, nvm, disregard this entry pls.
  10. sdunlimited

    sdunlimited LawnSite Member
    Messages: 16

    @pugs - I thought the purpose of that circuit was to provide a ground when all the safety switches were confirmed to be in the correct position. When I tested and got ground at all the points mentioned, I thought this was telling me that the safety switches were all functioning normally.

    Am I reading it wrong that the Yellow wire should be getting 12v when the key is turned to Start, therefore providing power to the Start Relay and triggering the solenoid/starter?
    For some reason, with the old and brand new starter/key switch, I'm not getting a 12v reading on the Yellow wire when the key is turned to Start.
    When I turn the starter/key switch to Start, the pole on the switch itself and the Yello wire slowly drops down to a reading of 0.0v on the multimeter. I'm thinking I should be getting some kind of voltage there to trigger that start relay...

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