In the garage can you put some grow lamps up?
Brackens Brown magnolia safe in windowless garage over winter?
I have about 20 Brackens brown magnolia starter plants in 3 gallon pots that are about 2 feet tall.
I bought them from the nursery in late Fall and my planting site is flooded and needs more soil and possible some drainage pipes and need to work on the sprinkler lines so I wasn't able to plant in Fall with mulch over top.
some suggestions were to either plant them now (because there IS some ground heat that comes up) or to put them under the porch or to keep them in the garage or possibly the warmer attic.
The garage gets no sunlight and it does freeze in there, a pipe burst a few winters ago, but I can put them on a cart and roll them out to the driveway to give them sunlight during the warmer hours maybe 2 or 3 times a month or whatever's suggested, and then slowly introduce them to outside for Spring planting.
I had them in full sun in the middle of the lawn thinking that'd be the best chance over winter because even though they'd freeze and get snow and ice they'd get the most sun to melt that but people have mentioned that's a bad idea a) for wind and b) sun on frozen leaves can ruin them.
Yesterday I dug a pit next to the house in the corner near fences where it doesn't get too much wind and was planning to maybe also put a scrap plywood wall around them for wind.
But now it's like they'll be in a pool of ice when it rains. I wasn't able to pack dirt around each pot that I packed them all tightly together in this pit, instead I stuffed straw and leaf mulch between them and plenty on top (so much on top that some of the trunks are buried which I hope isn't an issue), Also what mulch/insulation does is it stops heat from passing through it - you need a heat source which is the ground heat, an un-insulated shed for example is pointless, So with the straw and leaves packed around the sides of these pots it will block the ground heat from getting towards the tops of the plants but I wanted to put something there so it's less likely to pool up from rain.
but now I'm thinking garage might be better, or to make scrap plywood sort of roof over them in the pit so they don't get flooded and open the roof on warmer days but I think the garage would be safer - I'm just concerned if the garage will not have enough sun light but I know plenty people put banana and curry plants etc in garage over winter and they survive, it just seems odd to deprive a plant of sunlight for so long because there are some rare warmer Winter days but I will cart them to the driveway some days. I will water them about a cup of water once every 10 days or so if I put them in garage.
What do you suggest?
I got a steal on these for $20 each, when they're 6 footers some places want like $300 each, but I'm just worried if a lot die the place I bought them from won't have them again in Spring. This is new jersey zone 6.5 basically. thanks
I bought them from the nursery in late Fall and my planting site is flooded and needs more soil and possible some drainage pipes and need to work on the sprinkler lines so I wasn't able to plant in Fall with mulch over top.
some suggestions were to either plant them now (because there IS some ground heat that comes up) or to put them under the porch or to keep them in the garage or possibly the warmer attic.
The garage gets no sunlight and it does freeze in there, a pipe burst a few winters ago, but I can put them on a cart and roll them out to the driveway to give them sunlight during the warmer hours maybe 2 or 3 times a month or whatever's suggested, and then slowly introduce them to outside for Spring planting.
I had them in full sun in the middle of the lawn thinking that'd be the best chance over winter because even though they'd freeze and get snow and ice they'd get the most sun to melt that but people have mentioned that's a bad idea a) for wind and b) sun on frozen leaves can ruin them.
Yesterday I dug a pit next to the house in the corner near fences where it doesn't get too much wind and was planning to maybe also put a scrap plywood wall around them for wind.
But now it's like they'll be in a pool of ice when it rains. I wasn't able to pack dirt around each pot that I packed them all tightly together in this pit, instead I stuffed straw and leaf mulch between them and plenty on top (so much on top that some of the trunks are buried which I hope isn't an issue), Also what mulch/insulation does is it stops heat from passing through it - you need a heat source which is the ground heat, an un-insulated shed for example is pointless, So with the straw and leaves packed around the sides of these pots it will block the ground heat from getting towards the tops of the plants but I wanted to put something there so it's less likely to pool up from rain.
but now I'm thinking garage might be better, or to make scrap plywood sort of roof over them in the pit so they don't get flooded and open the roof on warmer days but I think the garage would be safer - I'm just concerned if the garage will not have enough sun light but I know plenty people put banana and curry plants etc in garage over winter and they survive, it just seems odd to deprive a plant of sunlight for so long because there are some rare warmer Winter days but I will cart them to the driveway some days. I will water them about a cup of water once every 10 days or so if I put them in garage.
What do you suggest?
I got a steal on these for $20 each, when they're 6 footers some places want like $300 each, but I'm just worried if a lot die the place I bought them from won't have them again in Spring. This is new jersey zone 6.5 basically. thanks
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I don't think they need light. And probably the leaves will fall and they will go dormant.
However, when in pots the cold wind blows all around. I think the main risk is the soil freezing solid--resulting in winter kill.
There is also a chance of unusually cold winter conditions, windy below zero conditions are not good.
However, when in pots the cold wind blows all around. I think the main risk is the soil freezing solid--resulting in winter kill.
There is also a chance of unusually cold winter conditions, windy below zero conditions are not good.
they're evergreens. will need light and water
you could hill them in if you have compost/mulch
Not sure on magnolia but our local nursery lays all of their potted tree's on they're side in a large grouping, come winter.
Then cover with hay and put a poly tarp over the whole batch of trees. We consistently get minus 30 to 40 degrees with 4 or more feet of snow. They all lay dormant until spring.
Then cover with hay and put a poly tarp over the whole batch of trees. We consistently get minus 30 to 40 degrees with 4 or more feet of snow. They all lay dormant until spring.
Those are hardy here in NJ.
Outside group in a sunny well drained spot, and hill some mulch around the pots to cover the root collars. Don't let them dry out.
They will get new leaves again in May/June.
Outside group in a sunny well drained spot, and hill some mulch around the pots to cover the root collars. Don't let them dry out.
They will get new leaves again in May/June.
well, they're taking a beating today, it's been raining for a day and frozen and going to be 8 degrees and it's 20 MPH winds.
If left outside, I think the best option would have been to dig a small hole just the size of each pot so it doesn't pool around the bottom of the pot and then mulch heavy around them, and space them close but still with enough soil between each pot so it's not one pit with them all together than will pool.
Someone said full sun is bad because sun on frozen leaves is bad but I have other similar southern magnolias that I planted last year in full sun with mulch and they did fine, those are little gem type slightly different and I think brackens may be more cold tolerant but either way not make or break.
if I were able to plant these in Fall, they'd be basically in sun anyway with mulch and that's the best you can do besides wrapping it like a fig tree or something and maybe removing the wrapping during warmer days.
I think I'm going to dig these back up next week when it thaws, plant them in a more sunny area and dig just a small hole for each pot so it doesn't pool and then mulch heavy and install a temp scrap plywood wall for wind and also before it snows or rains heavy I'll put a scrap plywood roof over it. - either this or I'll put them all in the crowded garage on plywoods and drag them out to the driveway now and then on warmer days to get sun however I'm afraid that could shock them. Considering the little gems did fine over last Winter I think I'll just plant these with each pot in a small hole. Grow lights in the garage may work but I don't really want to deal with all that especially considering the little gems did fine over winter - $20 a pop is super cheap and they grow pretty fast so would be ok if some don't make it over Winter but I'm just afraid the place I got these or anywhere else won't have this specific type I of Brackens Brown Beauty I want many of these for installs.
If left outside, I think the best option would have been to dig a small hole just the size of each pot so it doesn't pool around the bottom of the pot and then mulch heavy around them, and space them close but still with enough soil between each pot so it's not one pit with them all together than will pool.
Someone said full sun is bad because sun on frozen leaves is bad but I have other similar southern magnolias that I planted last year in full sun with mulch and they did fine, those are little gem type slightly different and I think brackens may be more cold tolerant but either way not make or break.
if I were able to plant these in Fall, they'd be basically in sun anyway with mulch and that's the best you can do besides wrapping it like a fig tree or something and maybe removing the wrapping during warmer days.
I think I'm going to dig these back up next week when it thaws, plant them in a more sunny area and dig just a small hole for each pot so it doesn't pool and then mulch heavy and install a temp scrap plywood wall for wind and also before it snows or rains heavy I'll put a scrap plywood roof over it. - either this or I'll put them all in the crowded garage on plywoods and drag them out to the driveway now and then on warmer days to get sun however I'm afraid that could shock them. Considering the little gems did fine over last Winter I think I'll just plant these with each pot in a small hole. Grow lights in the garage may work but I don't really want to deal with all that especially considering the little gems did fine over winter - $20 a pop is super cheap and they grow pretty fast so would be ok if some don't make it over Winter but I'm just afraid the place I got these or anywhere else won't have this specific type I of Brackens Brown Beauty I want many of these for installs.
UPDATE: only 1 died over winter, wasn't too harsh a winter, barely snowed an inch but plenty frozen rain and these were basically in a tub of ice and I think it'd have been best to individually bury each pot so water wouldn't pool at the base but they all but one made it through fine and the one without any leaves is a bit dry the branches but sometimes it might come back from root energy. 3 cripps golden cypress 2 footers also did fine.
with the southern and sweetgem magnolias, I'm not sure yet when they're just starting if it's just a new leaf twisted or a flower bud, I have several smaller little gems scattered around and I've been picking most of the flower buds when they're just starting to form to help them use that energy to establish roots instead but sometimes a new leaf looks like a flower bud.
The plants I worried about over winter though do have some small new growth
The plants I worried about over winter though do have some small new growth
^ at that stage I know the left is a flower bud, I've been picking them way before that size, but on the right that bright sorta Nike swoop bud IDK if there's a flower bud in there yet. I like to pluck the flower buds asap so it doesn't waste energy on them but I've been doing a good job overall of letting them focus on rooting instead of flowering. Also recently learned removing surrounding grass and mulching, just from the nutrient and water competition of grass trees can develop almost twice as fast with mulch instead of grass over the roots.
The sweetbays I have are like 8 ft planted from just $15 18" single stem starters I got off eBay 3 years ago. Not very thick foliage yet though because I haven't been pruning back the lower branches which would make thicker foliage because I'm letting them do their thing growing longer with more leaves to feed the height faster, Eventually the whole lower 8 foot trunk should be skirted back to not grow any branches that height since it's next to a sidewalk and shouldn't impede anyone walking. I grew one of them multi-trunk but then realized it'll grow too much sideways and someone might butcher it back from impeding and kill it or something, but they're rather forgiving species I'd say because it's done a nice job of bouncing back from last spring I clipped all but one stem down the the roots and it's turning into a tree and I've been plucking any suckers showing up. Really does smell good, I let a few flowers develop, known for the fragrance but it kinda smells like women's soap or something but it does smell good, and in NJ not warm enough for evergreen but it'll keep its leaves about 1.5 months longer than maples/oaks etc.
The sweetbays I have are like 8 ft planted from just $15 18" single stem starters I got off eBay 3 years ago. Not very thick foliage yet though because I haven't been pruning back the lower branches which would make thicker foliage because I'm letting them do their thing growing longer with more leaves to feed the height faster, Eventually the whole lower 8 foot trunk should be skirted back to not grow any branches that height since it's next to a sidewalk and shouldn't impede anyone walking. I grew one of them multi-trunk but then realized it'll grow too much sideways and someone might butcher it back from impeding and kill it or something, but they're rather forgiving species I'd say because it's done a nice job of bouncing back from last spring I clipped all but one stem down the the roots and it's turning into a tree and I've been plucking any suckers showing up. Really does smell good, I let a few flowers develop, known for the fragrance but it kinda smells like women's soap or something but it does smell good, and in NJ not warm enough for evergreen but it'll keep its leaves about 1.5 months longer than maples/oaks etc.
How old are your Southern Magnolia? They usually do not form Flower BUDS for many years. Sure you are not just removing leaves?
They are naturally multi trunked in form.
They are naturally multi trunked in form.
How old are your Southern Magnolia? They usually do not form Flower BUDS for many years. Sure you are not just removing leaves?
They are naturally multi trunked in form.
last Fall I got like 20 brackens browns (not little gem aka dwarf and not the large mother tree southern mag), brackens browns are in-between size. They were only about 18" and don't feel well-rooted in the 3 gal pots as if they were simply started from cuttings maybe a year prior if that, but definitely at least one had a bud I picked off the other day as I watered them, it was like a rhododendron bud definitely a flower, hard to fully inspect the others for more buds because it's currently all surrounded by 3 foot no-mow-May backyard grass lol.
Sweetbay magnolia 3 years olds started from small ebay plants about 12" were budding like crazy on every branch i just picked a few days ago, rather fast grower when single-leader and replaced the surrounding grass with mulch as noted.
Last Summer I put a $80 (a bargain vs ~$250ish) 6 foot single-leader dwarf little gem which has buds on every branch I've been picking off most.
Last Spring I put a $20 ~18" 5-stem little gem which is about 2 feet now and growing but I don't think this one has budded much you're right. I'm really tempted to make it a single stem just so it matches the 6 footer on the other side but it's basically got the worst configuration of stems to try and single out the dominant one plus it's got plenty of sideways open area to grow bushier but I'd like it to match the other side somewhat.
I feed these all the same interval as the lawn basically every 5 weeks starting early spring, sulfate of potash, oceangro same as milorganite organic nitrogen and has a bit phosphorus for rooting which come to think of it I might add a bit of starter fertilizer for phosphorus/rooting instead of I added a bit of urea nitrogen now and then even though I don't want to trick it into top growth instead of rooting which urea can do. I watered them every couple days in mid summer and this spring has been dry have been watering every few days already.
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