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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
model- 42A707
type- 2653 E1
code- 9803315A

Its an opposed twin and it will run at a constant rpm but it runs rough like its flooding out and it's burning way too much gas and when I took the carburetor off there was a puddle of gas in the intake manifold. I put a carb rebuild kit in it last year and its done this ever since but its just got worse lately. The float and needle valve seem to be fine.
 

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Travis Followell said:
model- 42A707
type- 2653 E1
code- 9803315A

Its an opposed twin and it will run at a constant rpm but it runs rough like its flooding out and it's burning way too much gas and when I took the carburetor off there was a puddle of gas in the intake manifold. I put a carb rebuild kit in it last year and its done this ever since but its just got worse lately. The float and needle valve seem to be fine.
Hold the float with your finger and thumb and briskly shake it and make sure it doesn't have fuel in it. Then reinstall it and hold the top upside down and make sure the float is parallel with the gasket surface. Actually it wouldn't hurt if it was just a little higher, That would lower the fuel level just a little.
Also the brass seat insert is replaceable I have seen problems with these in the past. If the other two check fine this just may be the next step.
Btw, You can purchase the needle valve separately to remove all doubt.
 

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The part number for the needle valve and seat is 394682.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
About middle ways through the summer last year I put the rebuild kit in it and it came with a new needle valve and brass seat. I decided to put the new needle valve in it but the brass seat looked hard to get out so I left it alone. I've already checked the float and it doesn't have any fuel in it but i'll put it back on and check the position of it this afternoon when I get a chance. Thanks for the help.
 

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Travis Followell said:
How can I get the brass seat insert out? It seems to be in there pretty tight.
Tap the hole with a 1/4x20 tap, Get a 1/4 x2" screw thats threaded all the way and screw a nut on it then a 1/4 flat washer. The service manual says to use part#94047 fuel tank spacer and screw the assembly into the seat.
Hold the screw head with one wrench while tightening the nut and it will jack it right out. I use a 1/2" long piece of steel brake line I had laying around in place of the tank spacer. To install the new one put a nut on the same screw or another then grind enough threads off so it will fit inside just a little ways and have the top touch the nut, Use this assembly to tap the new one in place.
If I lost you along the way just shout back,I tried to find a on-line service manual to post this page but couldn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I got it tapped but how far do I need to screw the bolt into it? Do I just barely screw it in or do I screw it all the way in and then tighten the nut? I wanna make sure I do it right so I don't strip the threads. Also should the washer be resting on top the two little holes where the float pin goes through because thats a good size washer and it won't fit between there. Thanks for the help.
 

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Travis Followell said:
I got it tapped but how far do I need to screw the bolt into it? Do I just barely screw it in or do I screw it all the way in and then tighten the nut? I wanna make sure I do it right so I don't strip the threads. Also should the washer be resting on top the two little holes where the float pin goes through because thats a good size washer and it won't fit between there. Thanks for the help.
Tap the old seat as deep as possible then snug the screw as deep as possible, And it sounds like you forgot to put the 1/2" long tubing on the screw for the washer and nut to rest on while tightening the nut.
The tubing must be large enough for the old seat to pass through but small enough to fit between the float pin tabs.
Jump back up top and reread the other post again,I know it can be confusing but I found no on-line Briggs service manuals to post the page but I'm sure you will get it done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I got the new seat put in and put the carburetor back on but its still doing the same thing. Runs rough and when I engage the deck the rpm's drop quite a bit and there's a puddle of raw gas in the intake manifold. Its on a 42" murray lawn tractor.
 

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Travis Followell said:
Well I got the new seat put in and put the carburetor back on but its still doing the same thing. Runs rough and when I engage the deck the rpm's drop quite a bit and there's a puddle of raw gas in the intake manifold. Its on a 42" murray lawn tractor.
Ok, From your discription lead me to believe it was a carb. problem, Thats one of the problems with this site we don't have the luxury of seeing or hearing these problems. Have you replaced the spark plugs ? Do this test;
Leave the plug wire boots loose on the plug and start the engine give it about half throttle and with rubber handle pliers remove each wire one at a time and listen for a RPM change, You may have a dead cylinder which would also give the same symptoms. If you remove one of the wires and the engine dies that is the problem, Then leave that wire off and put a screwdriver in the wire on the dead cylinder and hold it near the head and check for spark.
Post back your findings and we will go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I done what you said. I pulled one wire off and absolutely nothing happened so I put it back on and pulled off the other one and the engine died. looks like I found the problem. Anyway I checked the spark with a screwdriver and the one that I pulled that killed the engine had a very strong and loud spark so i checked the one that didn't do anything when I pulled it and it just barely would make a sound and I could just barely see the tiny spark so I checked it at the tip of the plug and it just barely would do anything so i'm gonna get a new ignition madule and put on it. I don't have a repair manual for this engine so what should the gap be? I checked it with a feeler guage and it was .005. but i'm thinking thats too close. I know on the single cylinders they recommed .006-.010.
 

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You can got to www.briggsandstratton.com and download a free owner's manual and parts manual for your engine. Always a great thing to have on hand.

The correct gap for that motor is 0.030". If your gap was 0.005" no wonder the plug wasn't firing, that's almost closed. I would try new plugs, correctly gapped first before the new module just in case, it's much cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wolf Creek said:
You can got to www.briggsandstratton.com and download a free owner's manual and parts manual for your engine. Always a great thing to have on hand.

The correct gap for that motor is 0.030". If your gap was 0.005" no wonder the plug wasn't firing, that's almost closed. I would try new plugs, correctly gapped first before the new module just in case, it's much cheaper.
Thanks for the info.

I was referring to the gap between the ignition module and the flywheel. I have the plugs gapped at .030" :)
 

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Travis Followell said:
Well I done what you said. I pulled one wire off and absolutely nothing happened so I put it back on and pulled off the other one and the engine died. looks like I found the problem. Anyway I checked the spark with a screwdriver and the one that I pulled that killed the engine had a very strong and loud spark so i checked the one that didn't do anything when I pulled it and it just barely would make a sound and I could just barely see the tiny spark so I checked it at the tip of the plug and it just barely would do anything so i'm gonna get a new ignition madule and put on it. I don't have a repair manual for this engine so what should the gap be? I checked it with a feeler guage and it was .005. but i'm thinking thats too close. I know on the single cylinders they recommed .006-.010.
Glad to hear we have finally gotten to the root of the problem, I know I could have found this just by listening to it run.
Sorry again about the carb. chase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thats ok about the carb chase. I was almost sure thats what it was until I done the spark test like you said. That actually crossed my mind when the problem started about it maybe not getting a spark to one cylinder but when I looked through the carb and saw the puddle of gas in the manifold. Oh well, we live and learn. Thanks again for all the help. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I talked to the guy that owns the mower and he is telling me that it still isnb't running right and using too much gas. I checked the new module after I put it on and its now running on both cylinders but isn't running right. Sounds like its missing but it cant be ignition system realated can it cause its got new plugs and ignition module.
 

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Travis Followell said:
Sounds like its missing but it cant be ignition system realated can it cause its got new plugs and ignition module.
It's possible a piece of carbon broke loose and got stuck under a valve, You have already covered the carb. and ignition. I would suggest a cylinder leak-down test which would be best but a compression test would show you a drastic difference between the cylinders should this be the problem.
 
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