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Briggs & Stratton Oil question

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by dh500, Jul 3, 2005.

  1. dh500

    dh500 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 58

    Thanks restrorob for your prompt reply to my previous question.

    I have another question about Oil.
    When I ask for 4-stroke engine oil from my local mower shop, sometimes I am given

    "Briggs & Stratton
    OHV 30
    SAE 30 Engine Oil for
    Vanguard INTEK
    and other 4-stroke OHV engines"

    and sometimes

    "Briggs & Stratton
    SAE 30
    Heavy Duty
    4-Stroke Engine Oil"

    Both containers refer to "WARM WEATHER FORMULA for use between 5 deg C and 38 deg C+

    The label on the second container mentions SF/CC service classification.
    The first container does not mention API classification.

    Is there any difference between these products or is it just a case of someone decided to design a new label?

  2. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    I use sae 40W oil in Vanguard engines because the instructor at one of the many classes I attend recommended it because of the hot weather we have here in Florida,If your climate is about the same thats what I would recommend you run also, But the regular HD Sae 30w is fine also.
  3. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

    Well I dunno I run 10w-40 synthetic blend both in my 15hp Vanguard and my standard OHV 10hp B & S (leaf blower). They run better with the synth.
  4. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    As I posted above it depends on the climate one lives as to what oil viscosity to run in a engine.I did refer back to my Briggs site and found that the synthetic oil you run is just fine for where you live,Its just a personal preference as to run synthetic or not.
    As a retired Auto Service Technician of 12yrs.,(That was before alot of synth. oils were out) I was able to see first hand the effects of many brands of oil had on a auto engine. My self I believe in nothing but Castrol GTX,Like they say its hard to teach a old dog new tricks.
    As I said it's personal preference !
  5. Tharrell

    Tharrell LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,967

    I only use Castrol myself, in all of my stuff including my truck. I also use Lucas oil conditioner in all my 4 cycle stuff.
    30 weight with Lucas in the mowers
    20x50 with Lucas in the truck (it's high mileage Japanese)
  6. Redneckn

    Redneckn LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 294

    i use mobil 10w40 in everything. i use the lucas oil condtioner in my old Ford since i am waiting until the last possible moment to get into the engine.
  7. ArchZangel

    ArchZangel LawnSite Member
    from Florida
    Messages: 24

    those before I have to agree. Straight 30/40w mineral based is fine. Only synthetic mult-viscosity can be used. The one thing that people forget is the duty rating. Every engine has different duty ratings. like SF, or SL etc etc. Most engine (small) are all pretty much use the same duty ratings. Some don't. What duty rating is: Somewhere around the 50's they started standardising (my spelling is bad) what additives were used in oil. As the years progressed the engine manufacturers(specifically auto's) needed different additives in thier egines. Different materials, fuels and emmssions requirement changes over the years. So an engine made one year may need sb while another will need sf. Now some may say it doesn't make that big of a difference. Well from what i've seen it does make a little. Enough that i like to give the engine what the factory calls for. Just my opinion. Sorry for rambling on. heheh
  8. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

    I ran Castrol GTX for many years and that is one fine oil but I run ALL synth.blend nowadays except the truck because it burns. Far as brands, I couldn't care less today: The CHEAPEST will do because I shop around, and when I find it on sale I buy as much as I can, earlier this year I bought 34 quarts of 5w-30 pennzoil synth.blend for $1.99/quart (which I run in the cars).

    Not to disagree entirely, I think the biggest problem you saw as a mechanic was as much due to infrequent oil changes on TOP of brand-switching which likely also involved a good amount of viscosity irregularities (i.e.: customer putting in a quart of 10w-40 when it is low on oil but the guys who changed the oil used 10w-30 ... 6 or 12 thousand miles ago). But I do agree: Use the same brand / same grade for the duration of the change, only switch if you must when you change it, then run same-same until next change.

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