Bucket vs Tank

Discussion in 'Seal Coating Forum' started by joeE, Jan 22, 2006.

  1. joeE

    joeE LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 286

    Some may want to start with min envestment, while others may choose to invest a little ( or a lot ) more. If you want to try 10-20 drives, this season, buckets might be the way to go. If you are going to do more than 20, you may want to get a tank. Having a tank ( steel cylinder )
    gives you the ability to grow with demand. If you start out wanting to do 20 drives, and on 1/2 of those the guy next door wants his done to (not uncommon) your up to 30. then 1/2 of that 10, now your up to 35 drives. If the avrege size is 2,000 sq ft, your looking at over 700 gal or 140 buckets. Starting with buckets is the least expencive way but it will put limitations on you. Every bucket needs to be mixed, moved twice & disposed of.
    You could buy a $10 (junk) broom for every job or you could buy a nice $50 3ft & $20 18" broom and keep them all season in a $200 broom box.


    I was doing a 12,000 sq ft drive in my first season when a guy asked me to give him a bid on 2 commerical lots, totaling over 100,000 sq ft. I got the job. If I did not have a sprayer I couldent have done those jobs.
    Now my little brother would have done it with a broom. He would have brought his tent & sleeping bag and stayed until it was done but he is way tuffer than me.
    I bought an old $800 striper for my first season and it worked pretty good until the 5hp briggs took a cr*p. So I put it in the back of the garage and bought a $3500 line lazer. I know that sounds exprnsive but it has paid for itself, and saved me a lot of time. Anyway, without that old striper I would have had to sub out the striping job.
    Beleave it or not, while doing one of those lots, another guy asked for a bid on a 40,000 lot. I got that job too. I do all 3 every 2 years.
    Most of us dont know what to expect when we get started, so its a tuff call on how much to invest. I chose to split the differance. I did borrow some money but I built most of my equipment. That requires a torch, welder and lots of know how. Aswell as lots of time.
    Wether you use buckets or a tank I would suggest the following at least.

    18" & 3ft broom...................$70
    broom box..........................200
    BP blower (homelite)............180
    weed trimmer (hl).................60
    steel broom.........................35
    100ft chalk line...................40
    V squeege.........................40
    2ft squeege........................30

    Iam sure Ive forgot something or two. I hope this is helpful.
  2. keepoffthegrass

    keepoffthegrass LawnSite Member
    from Ontario
    Messages: 212

    Thanks JOE, it is these kind of posts that make me come back here!
  3. Watkinslawnservice

    Watkinslawnservice LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 378

    Great post! But what is a broom box? A sweeper maybe?
  4. Watkinslawnservice

    Watkinslawnservice LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 378

    I see by one of your pther posts that a broom box must be something that you can keep water in and put your brooms in it to keep them soft. Is this correct?

    One more question for you JoeE, What do you recommend for patching and crack filling? Does the cold patch really work or does one have to get the equiptment for the hot patch stuff?

  5. joeE

    joeE LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 286

    Yes a water box.
    In the snow belt areas, the only thing that will stand up to the freeze-thaw cycles is hot rubber. Cold app filler may be ok if you only have 1 or 2 small
    (1/4") cracks. Some spider cracked areas can only be filled with cold filler because of so many cracks so close together. For that I use gator pave, thats the best cold filler Ive used. Even so, all cold fillers will need to be toped off in the spring. You will lose about 10-60 % in the winter. You should cover that under your wty. If you have a torch & welder, you can make a kettle & pour pot for about $350. Ive seen a product called crack stix that seems cool but pricey. You put the cold rubber in the crack and heat it with your burns o matic. Ive also seen some that looks like 3" tape but I havent used either.
    A pot hole or spider area should be cut out & hot patched. Since I dont do that, Iam not the person to give you the best answer (see NPCA). The local asphalt plant gives me lots of seal work so I give them the hot patch work.
    I do offer my customers the option of cold patch & or gator as a bandaid until they can afford the hot patch. I have had good luck with cold patch when installed correctly.

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