Building Sealcoating Tank - Need Advice.

Discussion in 'Seal Coating Forum' started by WarPaint, Jan 28, 2010.

  1. WarPaint

    WarPaint LawnSite Member
    Messages: 3

    I worked five months last summer for a well established asphalt sealing business located in a large metropolitan area in Tenessee. We used coal tar and did a lot of spraying and squeegee/brush work. Im experienced on well over a hundred residential jobs and a few larger commercial jobs.

    The individual i worked for was not too strict about following the manufacturers directions on how many gallons of water and the amount of sand to be used. He used star seal and for every 100 gallons of sealer he would add 40 gallons of water and 150 pounds of sand and no additives. The star seal guys tell me he should have used 33 to 34 gallons of water and 300 pounds of sand and some latex per 100 gallons of raw sealer.

    Im seriously considering going into the aphalt sealing business but right now i dont have the money for what would be called a "proffesional seal coating rig". But what i have found is a 4 ft. wide x 5 ft. tall x 7 ft. long square tank made out of 3/16 inch steel with a open top. I have a buddy who is an excellent welder and he can build a 4 ft. x 7 ft. lid cover with a u-shaped gasket channel that will set down over the top outer edges of the tank and can be ratcheted down tight during sealer transport.

    Now this is what i need some advice on...

    Yes i know its a square tank and ill be using coal tar and sand and that would present a problem but i will mainly be doing residential and i will be using a squeegee and will not be spraying. Im wondering if the sand that settles into the bottom corners and edges during the night can be scraped loose with a large straight edge scraper and the bottom of the tank can be done the same way. Should this loosen everything up well enough to allow pumps to take over the mixing details???
    I know i will need a wet agregate materials type pump to keep the sealer and sand circulated. I am thinking i will probably need two of these pumps with one on each opposing end of the tank. Both discharges would need to be on the bottom opposite ends of the tank and both intakes near the top opposite ends of the tank. But the question is what size pumps would they need to be and what volume would these pumps need to move per minute. Im sure that coal tar sealer with sand sitting in a square tank for a couple days would be a real bear to mix again.
  2. Pat Konen

    Pat Konen LawnSite Member
    Messages: 23

    How much are you planning on spending to get up and running? has some good turn key, start-up systems.
  3. WarPaint

    WarPaint LawnSite Member
    Messages: 3

    I want to spend as little money as possible in getting started.
    I will be buying insurance because im worried not to.

    I got the square tank for free and it is in excellent shape.

    My only question is what size or g-p-m of pumps to get. I want to have one pump at each end of the tank with the discharge on the bottom and with that discharge pointing toward the opposite end of the tank. And i want the pump intakes located near the top and on opposite ends of the tank.
  4. JFGauvreau

    JFGauvreau LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,298

    The stuff I buy is already mixed from a coal tar based, so I never have any problems of adding sand or water, and the pump re circulates the sealing in the tank, so its always well mixed up, if you want to go cheaper, you can have hand agitators.

    And I recommend getting a spraying equipment, which will save you lots of time and do a better job, just shop around you will find some for about 3,000 and its like a 225 gallon tank.

    check out
  5. WarPaint

    WarPaint LawnSite Member
    Messages: 3

    Im not so sure that i would do a better job by spraying than i would using a squeegee. I have sprayed and used a squeegee and both methods work just fine. I do know the majority of customers would prefer me to use a squeegee because it appears to be more labor intensive therefore they feel they are getting more for their moneys worth by having it done with a squeegee.
  6. JFGauvreau

    JFGauvreau LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,298

    Ya but I spend 85% of my time on driveways cleaning them, filling the cracks then 15% of the time is sealing it. Yes it is much faster to seal it but most home owners that seals their driveway by them self, they don't take as much time as I do to fill cracks and to clean the driveway so all my labor shows in the preparation.
  7. omniplayer

    omniplayer LawnSite Member
    Messages: 40

    Get a star seal cube unit. They are like $1,200 and you can spray and squeegee if you want. If you don't want to fork out the money for a good rig then this is the best alternative. The pumps and everything else you will need to build your own will cost at least half anyway and then you have to worry about problems afterwords. It's worth the extra dough.
  8. noahwilliams

    noahwilliams LawnSite Member
    Messages: 2

    honestly if you are just starting out the best way to do it is to buy a simple trash pump. you can get them off of ebay for less than 250 and they include the motor and the pump. if your going to be adding sand to your sealer make sure to get one with a metal pump not plastic. since you have your tank all you will have to do is buy a strainer and your wand and hose. simple as that bud. i mean it may only last you 2 summers but it will definetly get your seal coating business off the ground to the point you can purchase something of high quality. you only need a 5 hp trash pump to do the job.
  9. Mdirrigation

    Mdirrigation LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,794

    If you are planning to go into business , and stay in business dont throw your money into a cheap plastic box or a homade rig . I bought a good used 550 gallon adgitated with a dual diaphram pump on a trailer 12 years ago for 5000 dollars . Paid for it the first season. Still have it , still make great money with it .

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