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Bulk Material Bins

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by MWM, Mar 30, 2002.

  1. MWM

    MWM LawnSite Member
    Messages: 102

    OK, 1 more post regarding questions for my new shop/yard. We use quite a bit of bulk soil and mulch. Does anyone have specs for
    bulk bins?
    1. I plan on having a concrete floor. How thick is needed to handle a semi backing onto it to offload with a walking trailer floor?
    2. I have seen alot of diferent ways to build the sides. As a cost saving measure I thought about using railroad ties and covering the inside with plywood. Has anyone tried this. Any other good ideas that may be cost effective (cheap).
  2. Cheese burger

    Cheese burger LawnSite Member
    Messages: 33

    don't know where to get them or how much they cost, but i recently saw someone using concrete jersey walls, like the ones used for temporary high-way construction

    SCAPEASAURUSREX LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    Yeah .. Those concrete blocks are like 4000lbs each... You can get them from a concrete manufacturer.. They make them with the leftover concrete each day... Not sure how much they cost but they are very reasonalbe .. A local guy here used them to make his bins... No concrete floor though ? just gravel/dirt...
  4. kris

    kris LawnSite Bronze Member
    from nowhere
    Messages: 1,578

    Ours are out of old raiway ties (about 4' high)...no need for plywood IMO.

    I like the idea of concrete floor but we dont have it, so there is a bit of waste of material.
  5. Stonehenge

    Stonehenge LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 1,276

    We don't have bulk bins, but virtually every supplier around here that does has the concrete block type - about 2'x2'x6'. But on asphalt, not concrete. More cost effective that way, I think.

    The nice part about doing it that way is, you can move the block around, if you decide you need a larger bin for mulch, smaller bin for a certain type of stone, etc. And they're so big and heavy, that stacked you really can't deform the bins when loading materials with a tractor or loader.
  6. Henry

    Henry LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 548

    here in north Jersey those blocks go for $25 each picked up. If you have the equipment to move them it's a great deal. I don't know the actual name for them but I've heard mafia blocks from a few people.
  7. jeffyr

    jeffyr LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 876

    Mafia blocks ! That's great.
    My friends Vinney "the fish" and Joey "Boots" can get them easily. Wonder why ?

  8. MWM

    MWM LawnSite Member
    Messages: 102


    I planned on using concrete just because I was sure I could pour it thick enough to handle loader traffic and dump trucks/ semi's backing onto it. That is why I'm posting here to save any money I can and still have an A-1 finished product. I'm not made of money but plan on only doing it once the right way.


    I thought of facing the insides with plywood just so soil or mulch wouldnt get stuck in between. I also thought with the loader pushing into the sides it would be asier to replace plywood that gets scarred than the actual ties.


    What kind of weight would these have. Without getting outside help my only loader is my 773 and I don't think it would move what I'm picturing. But for $25 each I may save enough in labor and lumber to bring in some help.
  9. Loosestrife

    Loosestrife LawnSite Member
    from PA
    Messages: 80

    One of our suppliers does not have concrete for the floros of his bins, just dirt. What he did to alleviate the problem of his loads getting dirt in them was to place a section of railroad track in the bottom of the bin. The loader bucket won't go any deeper than the piece of track. You may need a few if loading from a large bin with a bobcat.
  10. LawnLad

    LawnLad LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 738

    If you can get the concrete blocks for $25 a piece, that sounds like a great price. If not, you can make them. Some guys just use simple blocks. The better ones will have a groove (bottom side) and notch (top side) of the block with two pieces of rebar bent to form eyelets so you can sling and place the blocks. What's nice about the the grove/notch deal is that the blocks lock together. 2' tall by 2' wide by 4' long. Take a lot of them, but well worth it.

    Build your own forms (could be labor intensive) and either have the concrete truck come to you (saves labor for hauling), or leave the forms at the concrete yard and have the drivers dump them into your forms when they return with a partial load (quality control won't be as high).

    For the concrete pad, I would imagine 6" would be fine with the proper base, as this is the typical driveway apron construction. 4" for residential drives would be too thin. Depending on size of equipment, you might need 8" in high traffic areas. But don't know for sure.

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