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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
guys,

you with the bullrider sulkies, i need some info... in your experiences, have you found the bullrider to contribute to excess rutting? I have a few props where my junglewheels are leaving their wheel marks, while the mower isnt. I cant see how going to a sulky with smaller wheels is going to help this situation. What do you guys think? worth the money? can you zero turn with one at the end of a row if you only circle the peremiter only once? Thanks guys.
 

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Originally posted by MacLawnCo
guys,

you with the bullrider sulkies, i need some info... in your experiences, have you found the bullrider to contribute to excess rutting? I have a few props where my junglewheels are leaving their wheel marks, while the mower isnt. I cant see how going to a sulky with smaller wheels is going to help this situation. What do you guys think? worth the money? can you zero turn with one at the end of a row if you only circle the peremiter only once? Thanks guys.
Mac,
Do the math. The tires are the same, in fact the Bullrider wheels are the same width, but a tad smaller in diameter...... SO, if the Junglewheels rut, so will the Bullrider.
However, the Bullrider will zero, plus you have the choice of running fixed or castored any time you want. Also, they don't shimmy back and forth like the Junglewheels.
How much to do you weigh?????????????
 

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can you zero turn with one at the end of a row if you only circle the peremiter only once
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I guess that depends on the machine it's hooked to. I've got mine on a Toro 36" and with it installed the overall length is close to 8 feet. In order to zero turn at the end of rows, I've got to make at least 2-3 passes.
 

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Originally posted by Rick Jones
can you zero turn with one at the end of a row if you only circle the peremiter only once
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I guess that depends on the machine it's hooked to. I've got mine on a Toro 36" and with it installed the overall length is close to 8 feet. In order to zero turn at the end of rows, I've got to make at least 2-3 passes.
Any hydro can true zeroturn with a bullrider. "NO" belt drive can zeroturn, period. However, a beltdrive can "fake" a zeroturn, by turning on a very small radius.
 

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Belt driven walk behind mowers are not designed to perform zero turns. They have their place in the mowing arena, but zero turns are not what they're for. I have a Scag 48 belt drive WB and it has served me well for 7 years and more than 3500 hours without so much as a hick-up. The mower is a Godsend on steep lots where a ZTR couldn't even think of going. I'll never be without a good walk behind mower for a lot of reasons.

As far as the sulky is concerned, I have a velky X2 on my Scag and I don't have a problem with ruts. The soil here in Florida is sand and ruts are rarely a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pete, im only 175ish. can you z turn on your 54 when you only make one pass around the peremeter?
 

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Simple

Is the distance from the center (3 blade deck) or left (2 blade deck) to where you stand longer than your width of cut?

If yes, the answer is no. If no, the answer is yes.
 

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Originally posted by MacLawnCo
Pete, im only 175ish. can you z turn on your 54 when you only make one pass around the peremeter?
Mac,
I'm not sure what you mean, but I'll say this. After I've done a spot (nice property) that I've gone "back and forth" (striping style) on, I usually do "two" passes around the perimeter to make things looks "just right". However, I "can" do just one pass around a crummy property, and have enough room to zeroturn at the ends without leaving uncut grass. This does take a bit of a technique......
Pete
 

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I have a BullRider on a 36" Exmark hydro. The sulky wheels track directly behind my mower drive wheels (why I bought the BR!). I've seen very limited rutting with the sulky wheels. If the ground is very wet and soft (rare when I mow this way), the mower will already make heavy marks.

My machine is too small to use in caster mode. The BR is just too heavy, providing too much feedback to the mower to allow me to drive it properly. Caster mode was my intended use, but I had to switch to trailer mode. However, having said that, buying the BR was the greatest $300 I've spent this season! My productivity has improved greatly on many properties, and has saved many, many miles on my 62 year old legs! Less walking has permitted me to work more hours per week. The BR replaced a single-wheel Velke (used it sparingly because of the wheel mark down the middle of the pass).

I've learned several different ways of making turns, depending upon the turf, the terrain, dampness, etc. But, I cannot make a zero-turn. The BR "hits the peg" before the inside wheel will stop. The turning radius is about 6-10 inches, on the outside of the tire. Typically, I don't use that type of turn anyway, rather using a two-part turn.
 

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When I used my walkbehind (52" JD) with a trailering type two wheeled sulky, I would either have to do two perimeters (simplest and neatest way to set straight rows) or if I did do only one border, I would have to jump off the sulky at the end of every row just after the first part of the turn to "swing" the inside turning part of the mower back a bit to make the tighter turn.
 

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im curious to know if it handles like the castering 2 wheeled lesco sulky? i purchased one early spring, very comfortable, but.. it was to heavy to chain up like my single wheele velkie, i could not back off my trailer because the standing platform was to close the ground, it took up to much trailer space when attatched to the mower , was much to heavy to muscle in and out of the truck at every stop, and severely affected the performance of my hydro w/b when going across slopes, ditches ect. and going down small inclines. i couldnt back up without stepping off. much to many cons for my liking, so i returned it to lesco , only had it two weeks. does the bullrider share any of these inconvieniences?
tim
 
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