Changing supply sources - approach question

Crazy 4 grass

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Minnesota
Well you certainly have a lot of different design options on the table. Which route do you plan to pursue? Regardless make sure to post lots of pics of the project.
 

enorl76

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Orlando, FL
So you have either Gould's multi stage pump or similar, I'm guessing 1.5 hp? Its a good pump capable of what you quoted, 25 GPM with really high dynamic head. I'm betting its pump discharge pressure is about 60-70 PSI at 25 GPM? You're probably using the correct pump given the elevation change at the front of the yard... the closer heads run a little "hot" but just get a valve based pressure reduction.

But yeah a floating raft would be ideal here. I believe those floating dock ballasts can be had for about 250 each. Get some marine grade lumber and build a smallish floating platform for the pump, but dont mount it over the water, just use that to prevent the pump from being submerged. As another suggested, sink a pretty tall pole into the ground a bit and use that to keep it from wandering

There's a lot of options here, depends on your budget.
And somebody mentioned a 10 foot high water tower.
 
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cooper5114

cooper5114

LawnSite Member
Location
columbia, sc
Yes yes and ill keep
You all in the loop. You’re a great group of guys. What I’m doing right now if going zone by zone testing performance hooked up to the well. I spent all Sunday afternoon fixing some broken heads — 12” stationary pipes with nozzles....most of my system is pop up type but on a couple zones in beds I went with rigid pipe. I swear 6 out of 12 for broken. Dogs? Who knows
 
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cooper5114

cooper5114

LawnSite Member
Location
columbia, sc
But one thing I’m more surprised at and I’m curious if you guys see this in the field as I’ve seen it probably twice so I’m thinking I’m my install technique is bad.

I’ve had the connection right at the valve break. The threaded portion breaks off into the valve. Going from 1.5” in this case to 1” valve. See picture. Just painful to repair.
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I don’t have a “before” picture but I did take one showing after...once I cut out the valve so you can see the wonderful SC clay. Also a picture of the broken male adapter after I removed it from the valve. I then replaced it with a 1” adapter.
 
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cooper5114

cooper5114

LawnSite Member
Location
columbia, sc
Hey...one other question. Who makes a really good but reasonably priced 220V submersible pump. I’m leaning this direction though the floating platform ...sitting on the ground and floating when the water rises...has some merit. Floating in the river I don’t think could work due to the dramatic height I’d need to deal with...15’ is totally going to happen.
 

Wet_Boots

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
metro NYC
But one thing I’m more surprised at and I’m curious if you guys see this in the field as I’ve seen it probably twice so I’m thinking I’m my install technique is bad.

I’ve had the connection right at the valve break. The threaded portion breaks off into the valve. Going from 1.5” in this case to 1” valve. See picture. Just painful to repair. View attachment 444660View attachment 444661View attachment 444662

I don’t have a “before” picture but I did take one showing after...once I cut out the valve so you can see the wonderful SC clay. Also a picture of the broken male adapter after I removed it from the valve. I then replaced it with a 1” adapter.
Better to use sch 80 TOE nipples to attach to the valves. TOE means threaded one end. These are machined from sch 80 PVC pipe. I buy 1 x 4 machined sch 80 nipples and cut them into a pair of 1 x 2 TOE nipples.
 

RhettMan

LawnSite Gold Member
Location
Texas
Yes yes and ill keep
You all in the loop. You’re a great group of guys. What I’m doing right now if going zone by zone testing performance hooked up to the well. I spent all Sunday afternoon fixing some broken heads — 12” stationary pipes with nozzles....most of my system is pop up type but on a couple zones in beds I went with rigid pipe. I swear 6 out of 12 for broken. Dogs? Who knows
The issue with rigid stationary pipes breaking is their lengthy "lever arm".
This is one reason you may often see these attached to the tee below with a threaded coupling and cut off riser.

this greatly reduced broken tee's, reducing the headache to a riser extraction and replacement.

If heads are snapping off pipes, the connections may be deteriorating.
Someone around here put in alot of the green colored cut off risers a while back.

They are quite brittle now, compared to a proper swing joint
 
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