Cleaning Glyphosate Sprayer
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Joined
·
2,748 Posts
Glyphosate is a amino acid inhibitor and is not active on soil particles.
Risate is a good place to start. (Nutra-Sol) or (Inside out) is a couple products that aren't too expensive. The label should give you a solution, however, a cup of Ammonia to a gallon of water repeated a couple times fill flush out the sprayer. On the second attempt add some dish soap to the water-shake--spray out the nozzles and line with pressure. Rinse out the sprayer one last time.
Glyphosate will become extra diluted with more water.................depending on the % you mixed and how long it stayed in the container before cleaning. Viton seals that come in roundup ready sprayers are pretty good at not holding residues..........so flush the sprayer out a few times and go.
The question I have for you is this---" What do you plan on using the sprayer for after this?" I wouldn't suggest using it for anything but glyphosate.....to be safe.
This is the reason why I own 5 backpack sprayers........one for each situation and chemical combination I use. Don't really have the time to sit around flushing out sprayers on the week ends. The skid gets cleaned out regularly though.
Risate is a good place to start. (Nutra-Sol) or (Inside out) is a couple products that aren't too expensive. The label should give you a solution, however, a cup of Ammonia to a gallon of water repeated a couple times fill flush out the sprayer. On the second attempt add some dish soap to the water-shake--spray out the nozzles and line with pressure. Rinse out the sprayer one last time.
Glyphosate will become extra diluted with more water.................depending on the % you mixed and how long it stayed in the container before cleaning. Viton seals that come in roundup ready sprayers are pretty good at not holding residues..........so flush the sprayer out a few times and go.
The question I have for you is this---" What do you plan on using the sprayer for after this?" I wouldn't suggest using it for anything but glyphosate.....to be safe.
This is the reason why I own 5 backpack sprayers........one for each situation and chemical combination I use. Don't really have the time to sit around flushing out sprayers on the week ends. The skid gets cleaned out regularly though.
I appreciate your comments. What are Risate/Nutra-Sol/InsideOut? (Ammonia, bleach, soap, I can certainly do.)
To answer your questions, I make my glyphosate a smidge stronger than label, add some surfactant, and leave it in the spray system for up to a week. (Does this makes it harder to get rid of?) I spray the ground (mostly broadleaf killer) and trees (dormant/lime-sulphur and anti-fungals).
Assuming lots of water were used, would not extremely diluted glyphosate be harmless to leaves?
To answer your questions, I make my glyphosate a smidge stronger than label, add some surfactant, and leave it in the spray system for up to a week. (Does this makes it harder to get rid of?) I spray the ground (mostly broadleaf killer) and trees (dormant/lime-sulphur and anti-fungals).
Assuming lots of water were used, would not extremely diluted glyphosate be harmless to leaves?
I used to own 1 Stihl sprayer. I would always rinse it out very well. Ammonia, soap, multiple flushing of the wand, and finally filling ip up halfway with water and spraying all the water out. I would always dry it out as well to prevent the grommets from rotting. It was probably a 15-20 minute ordeal.
Last season I killed 2 of my 18 roses while spraying a fugicide. It wasn't a potent kill, but I guess the sprayer had enough residue in it somewhere to kill it very slowly. I was able to nurse back another 2 roses and the rest were fine. The 2 that I have nursed back still aren't 100%. 1 is about 85% and the other 50%. Since the rest of the roses were fine, I assume the residual stuff was somewhere in the wand.
You need to buy another sprayer and label each spray boldly. I cannot imagine a professional having the time to do a proper rinse each spray. Furthermore, it is near impossible to get all the glyco out.
Last season I killed 2 of my 18 roses while spraying a fugicide. It wasn't a potent kill, but I guess the sprayer had enough residue in it somewhere to kill it very slowly. I was able to nurse back another 2 roses and the rest were fine. The 2 that I have nursed back still aren't 100%. 1 is about 85% and the other 50%. Since the rest of the roses were fine, I assume the residual stuff was somewhere in the wand.
You need to buy another sprayer and label each spray boldly. I cannot imagine a professional having the time to do a proper rinse each spray. Furthermore, it is near impossible to get all the glyco out.
Joined
·
19,518 Posts
Roundup or glyphosate is a problem. 2,4-D is notoriously difficult to remove completely. Just think of the risks of spraying a fungicide on tomatoes with a backpack formerly used for a three-way. Experienced people will never do it, (again.)
Back packs have an additional problem. Most have a one-pint air reserve chamber which keeps the spray going during slight pauses and the pump handle upstroke. This chamber can become filled with water (and herbicide solution). Turning the tank upside down does not empty the reserve chamber.
If you intend to use the same sprayer--you should clean it out--then test it on some sensitive plants like tomatoes, grape vines, or box elder trees. Allow 48 hours.
Sometimes hand sprayers have a similar problem. Spray solution can work its way into the barrel of the pump...leaving a reservoir of said solution that will not drain. Since the pump is not normally wet inside--the residue is difficult to remove unless the pump is fully disassembled.
Back packs have an additional problem. Most have a one-pint air reserve chamber which keeps the spray going during slight pauses and the pump handle upstroke. This chamber can become filled with water (and herbicide solution). Turning the tank upside down does not empty the reserve chamber.
If you intend to use the same sprayer--you should clean it out--then test it on some sensitive plants like tomatoes, grape vines, or box elder trees. Allow 48 hours.
Sometimes hand sprayers have a similar problem. Spray solution can work its way into the barrel of the pump...leaving a reservoir of said solution that will not drain. Since the pump is not normally wet inside--the residue is difficult to remove unless the pump is fully disassembled.
Appreciate all the responses. Meanwhile, I did some web searching, and found the following from what appear to be reputable sources.
The reason glyphosate becomes inert once on the ground is from bacterial action. That's why there is no "defuser" you can add to it for deactivation, and why if you apply it over mulch it will not automatically degrade.
Common herbicides that are much longer-lasting in sprayers, especially after sitting for a day, are those with 2,4-D and dicamba. You can get some of it out with water, commercial tank cleaners, household ammonia left overnight, detergents, the cleaner trisodium phosphate OR (better sit down) glyphosate itself. (About ammonia, you want a 1% solution of 3% ammonia, and keep it away from chlorine/bleach unless your insurance is current.)
About killing roses from a contaminated sprayer, if I did that in the boss's rose garden, she'd cut off my wand, so thanks for the warning. Are you sure you didn't once have 2,4-D and/or dicamba in the sprayer?
The reason glyphosate becomes inert once on the ground is from bacterial action. That's why there is no "defuser" you can add to it for deactivation, and why if you apply it over mulch it will not automatically degrade.
Common herbicides that are much longer-lasting in sprayers, especially after sitting for a day, are those with 2,4-D and dicamba. You can get some of it out with water, commercial tank cleaners, household ammonia left overnight, detergents, the cleaner trisodium phosphate OR (better sit down) glyphosate itself. (About ammonia, you want a 1% solution of 3% ammonia, and keep it away from chlorine/bleach unless your insurance is current.)
About killing roses from a contaminated sprayer, if I did that in the boss's rose garden, she'd cut off my wand, so thanks for the warning. Are you sure you didn't once have 2,4-D and/or dicamba in the sprayer?
Joined
·
11,854 Posts
Lorena Bobbit part deux. Sprayer are cheap, reattachment surgery isn't. I keep separate sprayers for herbicides and shrub applications as well. I use lots of sulfonylurea herbicides. Those are notoriously difficult to wash out properly and they are lethal in microgram amounts.
Do a search on member ******. He had to replace several thousand sq ft of lawn because glyphosate trapped in his backpack sprayer mingled with a lawn herbicide mix.
Do a search on member ******. He had to replace several thousand sq ft of lawn because glyphosate trapped in his backpack sprayer mingled with a lawn herbicide mix.
Joined
·
6,313 Posts
Yea, I have one backpack that SOLELY sees gly and that is it. Def don't want to be replacing plants.
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device
Joined
·
8,942 Posts
Ouch! Oh God just thinking about that hurts!!
Joined
·
11,854 Posts
I have two separate B & G hand cans for the same reason. One is used for Sureguard, Reward, RoundUp, the other is only for selective over the top herbicides in ornamentals. Traces of Sureguard will burn up mondo really bad.
I should have explained that I apply 20 to 60 gallons at a time over large acreages, and don't apply different preparations in the same week or two. That's why one large sprayer suits, and multiple sprayers would be a last resort. Hence my search for the right cleaning technique, as I'm sure farmers use on their huge rigs.
I've learned, largely through you, of various cleaners. Some of you warn of glyphosate residue, but the literature indicates more danger from "PGR" herbicides (plant-growth-regulators, commonly 2,4-D and dicamba).
And before treating leaves to help rather than kill them, I'll test the spray on my own greenery, knowing that if worst comes to worst, it's off to the sprayer store.
Anybody know about winter storage of a 12V pump? Besides getting the liquid out, I wonder if the pump would like some oil or somesuch sent through.
I've learned, largely through you, of various cleaners. Some of you warn of glyphosate residue, but the literature indicates more danger from "PGR" herbicides (plant-growth-regulators, commonly 2,4-D and dicamba).
And before treating leaves to help rather than kill them, I'll test the spray on my own greenery, knowing that if worst comes to worst, it's off to the sprayer store.
Anybody know about winter storage of a 12V pump? Besides getting the liquid out, I wonder if the pump would like some oil or somesuch sent through.
Joined
·
45 Posts
Spraying 4oz per gal of round up, mixing 100 gal. how many oz of round up do I need ? Just cheaking with the pros !
Joined
·
622 Posts
Are you an idiot? And 4oz per gallon?!?! Please put your sprayers away and call a pro... If you can't do basic math then you probably shouldn't be mixing chemicals or you haven't been wearing your PPE and the chemicals have finally gotten to you...
Joined
·
45 Posts
Problem is the chemicals have gotton to me over the yrs, not asking for me,trying to prove a point to someone else about this site,Thanks for helping me win my bet !:drinkup:
Joined
·
431 Posts
So what if I'm buying a skid sprayer used that's mainly had Non-selective herbicide in it, from a company getting out of the business?
Can I clean it out? Should I be trying to replace the tank? What other parts should I be replacing?
I'm getting a great deal on it, btw
Can I clean it out? Should I be trying to replace the tank? What other parts should I be replacing?
I'm getting a great deal on it, btw
Joined
·
1,246 Posts
I guess he was trying to prove that someone would come back with a smart ass remark to the simple question.
Joined
·
2,247 Posts
I wonder if he would get an A if he asked his 6th grade teacher the same question. The teacher is a pro too.
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
