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Compaction strategy raised paver area

2517 Views 51 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Mitty87
Doing a big job where the lower section is retaining wall and 25x25 paver area. The top is 4” base and bottom is 22”, so about 10” average really.

it’s way in a backyard and down a bit of a hill. I do have a 17g excavator there now so with a chain I can move around a compactor, but want to be fairly efficient.
Basically need a machine that can cover 8” lifts if possible. Does anyone know what machine I can rent that can do that?

or should I just do a jumping Jack machine on the bottom 200’ sq where it’s the deep road base
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Jumping jacks aren’t good for stone, only dirt.
I’m not really sure what you’re asking. You want to pack 8” at a time? There is no shortcut to packing a base. It just takes time.
well it’s just a long treck from driveway to backyard and was wondering most efficient way to compact. I’ll probably end up just spending a full day shuffling piles around and using the 300lb machine with 3” lifts
I have yet to come up with a good solution to situations like these either. Doing it the slow way is probably the best. Even with a heavier machine, you might be able to go to 6” or 8” lifts, but when terrain and access has you limited, it just means it costs more to do!
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What brand of blocks?

I just have trouble following your questions. I think it’s just a word picture issue if that makes sense. When you say raised patio, I think wall blocks to make it raised, filled with stone or heavily compacted fill, then a paver patio. Is this correct? Or do you mean a wall around the patio? Perhaps a sketch or a picture would help me.
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This is a pic from the internet, and what I picture from your description.

Plant Window Road surface Brickwork Asphalt
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Just to share something, Belgard now has patio pavers with built in drainage. They will drain into the base, and you can use tile to collect the water and get it out of the base. Just wanted to share that. I have not used any. Just had a meeting last week with a Belgard rep, and he was telling me about them.

I don't think you will go wrong just making it flat. Flat will drain, but I understand not wanting puddles, which can happen. If I was going to slope it, I would either crown it like maybe 1/2" in the center (or at the rear depending on shape) and slope to the wall from there, but I wouldn't crown it much. You could always put a drain in the center if you're worried about sag, I probably wouldn't for the size you stated. It doesn't take much to make water flow.

Are you building any type of rail or wall to keep people from walking off the 5 block high point?
I also think if you don't use sand for screed, but some 1/4-10 or whatever you call it up there, and no poly sand (unless it is the permeable type) pavers will drain quite well without any pitch.

There was no issue with ponding, flooding which I primarily attribute to the 1/4-10 screed base. That was 15 months ago...
I think you are spot on with that. That was something else my Belgard rep and I talked about, not using sand as a screed, but instead using #12 or 1/4-10 (whatever it is called in your area) because sand doesn't drain well. Belgard now suggests like #8 washed stone with a #12 screed. (Again, rock size terms seem to vary place to place.) We had been using rock instead of sand, so I felt good about what we have been doing. I am new to Hardscapes, so I pay a lot of attention to what I hear from others and from reps. Good to hear from someone else doing it the same way. Another thing that was mentioned along side of the better drainage on the finished product, was that it also drains with no pooling during construction. You can get a large rain with no ponding and go right back to work. Also, you can compact the #12 and walk on it without messing up the site, so staying off the prep area isn't a concern. It really makes sense.

Excellent job by the way!
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I’m gonna have to look at that HF saw. Sounds like you guys have had good luck with them.

@Mitty87 Looks great!!
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