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Complete renovation

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by QLC, Apr 3, 2000.

  1. QLC

    QLC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 25

    I just got a call to bid on a complete renovation for an old yard. I was wondering what the best way to do this was. Round-up then slit seed. Round-up, aerate, then slit seed or does it need to be tilled to get rid of the old grass and weeds. Need help please!!<p>Brook Haynes<br>Quality Lawn Care
  2. Starling Lawn

    Starling Lawn LawnSite Member
    Messages: 170

    my answer,roundup,till,then seed...if you seed right after the till.you shouldn`t have to aerate.
  3. Alan

    Alan Member
    Messages: 1,185

    The renos I've done required a lot of grading, so I brought in topsoil to fill the low spots, then tilled the whole thing and hydroseeded same as new installation. No Roundup though and it seemed to do OK.
  4. cjcland

    cjcland LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 278

    i would do the above except for seeding i would really push for sod instalation, make a little extra money and you get the &quot;LOOK&quot; much sooner<p>----------<br>CJC Landscape Management<br>Winter Haven, Florida
  5. Ssouth

    Ssouth LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 436

    I plan on totally renovating my lawn in two weeks. First I will Roundup the whole lawn. Then I plan on tilling and raking out all of the old grass that I can. Fill any low spot with new topsoil. Then seed. I have done this in the past and it worked well.
  6. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,969

    QLC, your Roundup, aerate, slitseed is the very best route if the site does not need extensive leveling. If the site requires extensive leveling, then go the Roundup then tilling route. Removing the dead grass & weeds is a waste of time and effort; if they are dead, they will just decay anyhow.<p>If slitseeding, remember to mow the dead grass first to 1 to 1-1/2 inches shorter than you will be mowing the new turf. That way it will not show when you mow in a couple of months. By slitseeding instead of tilling, you are way ahead by having a stabilized surface and a shelter for the newly germinating seeds. No need to worry about washouts in a heavy downpour.<p>If you are going with cool season grass, wait until last week of July to Roundup, check for touchup Roundup in 10-12 days, and seed around Aug 15-20. This is best time to start cool season grasses. Then you just have to baby them for a couple of weeks, and they are germinated and ready to roar into their prime growing season.<p>----------<br>Jim<br>North central Indiana
  7. OP

    QLC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 25

    Groundkprs,<br>I live in Central Ky and will probably be using a fine blade fescue. If August is the best time to seed what do I tell this potential costumer? I haven't looked at the yard yet, but as you know we had a bad drought last year and I'm sure the yard is just spotty. Would it be a waste of time to go ahead and seed now?<p>QLC
  8. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,969

    For cool season grasses, mid-Aug is best: As stated earlier, seed germinates right before fall growth spurt. Also has spring growth to establish before summer stress. Cool season planted now just gets started and then has to survive summer - can survive, but what if this summer is rerun of last? If so, your new seeding will be belly up by July. If someone wanted me to do a quality job, and it looked bad now, I would just slitseed rye now, so you don't waste a lot of money, then do the Roundup, aerate, slitseed in Jul-Aug.<p>Remember the life cycle of cool season grasses is Labor day to Memorial day. What they do during the summer depends on what happened then. They just survive during summer, unless heat & drought is too much. Had most of my bluegrass lawn die in '96, because of extended heat and lawn sloped into sun. Had enuf water, sometimes you can't do anything to save it. But advantage is that I now have much newer varieties, looks better.<p>----------<br>Jim<br>North central Indiana<br>
  9. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,969

    One other important consideration in slitseeding: is there heavy thatch? If so, it must be removed for successful seeding. Seeding success depends on seed/soil contact. I will always check 6-10 places on site, but you can still miss a area of heavy thatch. Core aeration, beside giving more soil for contact, also lets you see thatch depth over entire site.<p>----------<br>Jim<br>North central Indiana
  10. ADMServices

    ADMServices LawnSite Member
    Messages: 68

    Have any of you guys tryed a sod cutter rather then tilling? We round up, sod cut, re-grade with topsoil, then sod/or seed.<p>Andy<br>www.ADMSERVICES.Com

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