Cost effectiveness depends on how you look at it. If your soil is low in SOM, then there is no quicker way to build it back up than with compost. There are a multitude of other benefits that come with it as well, so "cost" is relative. I would start a yearly seed and compost top dress program after taking some soil samples.

 

That is what I was thinking. Would it be best to overseed and put a layer of compost on top of the seed or would it be better to one before the other?

 

That is what I was thinking. Would it be best to overseed and put a layer of compost on top of the seed or would it be better to one before the other?

Centipede grass moves around with stolons much like zoysia or burmudagrass.
With a flat edging spade, cut a couple pieces of it away from an inconspicuous area of your lawn, and piece them into those 1-2 sq ft areas you mentioned.
Any little gaps you may have will slowly fill in over time.

 

I noticed you use a Walker with GHS. you should STRONGLY consider getting a mulching deck for your Walker. We still use GHS for some of our lawns (for various reasons) but bought a new Walker mulching deck for this year.
If you put down compost or other light-weight organic treatment, you run the risk of sucking it up before it has been fully effective. Additionally, the folks here all agree that grass clippings left behind are a good source of organic matter.

 

I would test the soil first.

Mow the lawn low and bag (Mow low JUST this time, mow high and leave the clippings the rest of the season.)

Does it have a buildup of thatch? Centipede lawns commonly build up thatch, especially if it hasn't been cared for properly in the last few years. If so, then it is important to dethatch. But, It would be best if it wasn't necessary.

When the thatch layer is too deep (in excess of a half inch), the lawn will begin to thin. Lawns with heavy thatch tend to have a shallow root system, making it harder to maintain the grass. Thatch can keep water, air and nutrients from getting to the roots and promotes insect invasion. Additionally, lawns with excessive thatch are more likely to have problems with diseases.

Is the soil compacted? If so, you will get a huge benefit from aeration. Try to get at LEAST 20 holes per square foot. When the soil is compacted, nutrients and water are slow to get to the roots, further weakening the lawn. (We try very hard not to do both. De Thatch and Aerate. If you can get by with JUST one of the choices. Choose Aerate)

I would then over-seed. It is best to do this when soil temperatures are at least 70 degrees and there is no danger of freeze. Apply between 1/4 to 1/2 lb of Centipede seed per 1000 sq. ft.

If you did not Dethatch or aerate, you MUST scratch the surface well after seeding, so the seed falls in. We scratch before and after seeding. As Centipede seed WILL NOT GERMINATE if just thrown on top.

FEED the soil, seed and established Centipede grass with Fulvic Bloom!

Cover with a thin layer (1/4 inch) of compost, Compost is BOTH - the best soil amendment AND the best fertilizer for revitalizing and maintaining your lawn! It provides beneficial bacteria and fungi to support microbes essential to growing a healthy lawn. It adds micro-organisms to the soil giving them both shelter and nutrients, in addition to improving the soil structure, balancing pH and supplying essential nutrients for plant growth, making your soil noticeably richer AND self reliant. An organically active soil will successfully fend off threats of disease, rot, canker, fungus, die-back, weeds, etc.

Centipede seed is SLOW to develop so be patient, it may take 3 months to begin to notice an improvement.

Water, fertilize and mow as normal for the rest of the season.
(Make sure you water as recommended on the seed package for germination)

Once the seedlings are established, mow as HIGH as possible so the grass can shade the weeds. A Mulching Mower would be best.

Leave the clippings on the lawn. Fulvic Bloom will aide in the decomposition of the clippings, and the clippings provide beneficial nutrients! Fulvic Bloom's microbial activity helps aerate the soil naturally which aids in moisture retention and prevents compaction. Microbes also clean up toxins in the environment and biodegrade organic matter into compost.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you use our FULVIC BLOOM for this lawn's nutrition program for the rest of the season. I believe you will be thrilled with the results.
Please visit our web site www.FulvicBloom.com and you will see why.

 

Crazyblonde,


What are all the essential minerals and nutrients in fulvic bloom? I was only aware of 17 elements needed for plant growth.

 

I noticed you use a Walker with GHS. you should STRONGLY consider getting a mulching deck for your Walker. We still use GHS for some of our lawns (for various reasons) but bought a new Walker mulching deck for this year.
If you put down compost or other light-weight organic treatment, you run the risk of sucking it up before it has been fully effective. Additionally, the folks here all agree that grass clippings left behind are a good source of organic matter.

I do have a GHS deck on my ztr but I have made it so that I can disconnect the blower belt and have made a piece to cover the plastic chute that sucks up the clippings so I can use it to mulch also without sucking up the clippings. It is actually a Bob-Cat but is identical to the Walker GHS so getting a mulching deck from Bob-Cat is not an option for this particular mower :hammerhead: , believe me I looked!! I mainly only use it to bag when there are lots of leaves but I do appreciate the advice on not sucking up all of the organic matter that I put down, I will probably use the 21'' for awhile on this lawn after I put down the compost :weightlifter:.

 

Centipede grass moves around with stolons much like zoysia or burmudagrass.
With a flat edging spade, cut a couple pieces of it away from an inconspicuous area of your lawn, and piece them into those 1-2 sq ft areas you mentioned.
Any little gaps you may have will slowly fill in over time.

Ok that sounds good, that was going to be my plan if I didn't figure out anything else so I am glad I was on the right path. Thanks Marcos

 

CrazyBlonde-
I am in the process of getting a soil sample tested. There is not any substantial amount of thatch buildup on the lawn but the soil definitely seems to be fairly compacted so it could surely use a good aeration. So I will 1) await the soil test results and cut and bag the yard once 2) aerate 3) fill in the bare spots with a few patches of the good turf (thanks Marcos!) 4) overseed and apply the compost/fulvic bloom and then continue to mow high and mulch the clippings back into the soil. That sounds like a good plan I am excited to see if I can get this yard turned around for this upcoming season.

Thanks for all of the advice guys am I missing anything here??

 

Cash, Best wishes to a great success with this property, it sounds like you are doing all the things needed to succeed.

What are all the essential minerals and nutrients in fulvic bloom?

Fulvic Bloom™ has an abundance of micronutrients, minerals, and elements as listed below.

From a chemical perspective the following minor and trace elements are required for quality plant growth. These essential elements are all found in Fulvic Bloom™ in the following minimum quantities, in addition to the high strength Fulvic and Humics.

Minerals & Nutrients

Micronutrients

0.117 ppm Boron
6.010 ppm Copper
0.278 ppm Iron
0.082 ppm Manganese
0.213 ppm Molybdenum
40,000 ppm Carbon
297.0 ppm Sodium
0.116 ppm Zinc

Macronutrients

122 ppm Calcium
30.3 ppm Magnesium
21.7 ppm Phosphorous
5,270 ppm Potassium
20.8 ppm Sulfur
890 ppm Nitrogen

6.0% minimum Fulvic and Humic Acid
6.2 - 7.3 pH

Proprietary: Fulvic Bloom™ includes other beneficial trace elements, minerals, and micronutrients that naturally occur in soil and bio-organic composting processes that helps plants and crops grow to their full potential. Fulvic Bloom™ includes a total of 60 other trace elements and micronutrients making a total of 74 in all.

Thank You for asking Grasssales2001, the above info is available at www.fulvicbloom.com
Click on the LEFT BOX labeled Minerals and Nutrients.

 

Proprietary: Fulvic Bloom™ includes other beneficial trace elements, minerals, and micronutrients that naturally occur in soil and bio-organic composting processes that helps plants and crops grow to their full potential. Fulvic Bloom™ includes a total of 60 other trace elements and micronutrients making a total of 74 in all.

What are the other 60 and how/why are they beneficial?

 

I'm not going to list them Kiril, if you wish to discuss it CALL please.
It is our PROPRIETARY blend.
They are derived as stated.
They are "the secret sauce" so to speak, so ask KFC, and Bush's Baked Beans about their proprietary recipies and see how far you get.
They ARE BENEFICIAL, we have NO NEGATIVE RESULTS OF ANY KIND! And neither does anyone else.

So far, the ONLY comments we have heard have been "ASTONISHED" "REMARKABLE" "AMAZING" "WOW" "LOVE IT" "MORE PLEASE" so you should try it for yourself Kiril, I'm POSITIVE you will be PLEASED!

We were just invited to participate in a horticultural study, because they had heard how wonderful the results are, and we went and met with them yesterday to provide the product.

We brought our ongoing test plants, and photos, and the group was so excited and they too used the words "REMARKABLE" and "AMAZING".

Last year at our local Home and Garden show, our before and after samples, and our test plants, grass samples, and vegetables recieved rave reviews. Customers who purchased from us last year are repeatedly purchasing more. As I said, NOT ONE COMPLAINT.

Distributing Companys have heard about the product (BEFORE WE ADVERTISED IT) sought us out, initiated contact with us, and have ordered product to take to Home & Garden Shows in several states.

We are pleased to provide an organic feed that has been very well received.

 

How are micro-nutrients proprietary?

 

I did not say they are!
I said we have our proprietary blend.
Which means we combine (blend) our desired amounts to get the desired effect we want.

 

I did not say they are!
I said we have our proprietary blend.
Which means we combine (blend) our desired amounts to get the desired effect we want.

I didn't ask for the blend. I just asked what other micronutrients are available from whatever you put in your product.

 

I didn't ask for the blend. I just asked what other micronutrients are available from whatever you put in your product.

Where did you ask that question?

 

As far as the blend goes it's a secret!

 

As far as the blend goes it's a secret!

I was in the midst of composing an answer to Green Way when your post came through. Sorry, I didn't ask the original question. OK. Here's what really bothers me. (I can't speak for any other member of this forum.) I like the enthusiasm you have for your product but we are not consumers here. We are professionals. It's fine to include testimonials but if you want to state facts, then state facts. If you are touting "x" number of nutrients and micronutrients, then let's hear what they are. If it's not relevant what they are, then don't tout a number. I'm not asking for the blend or the percentages.

 

I was in the midst of composing an answer to Green Way when your post came through. OK. Here's what really bothers me. (I can't speak for any other member of this forum.) I like the enthusiasm you have for your product but we are not consumers here. We are professionals. It's fine to include testimonials but if you want to state facts, then state facts. If you are touting "x" number of nutrients and micronutrients, then let's hear what they are. If it's not relevant what they are, then don't tout a number. I'm not asking for the blend or the percentages.

If there are not consumers here then why have I received 8 calls this week from blogs posted on this site?

 

My web-site has info about the product. So ANYONE that needs additional info on the product, other than what I post here, or on the web site, can give us a call during business hours, and we will be happy to discuss it with you.

We are professionals also. We run our Fert services EVERY DAY, that's how this buisness with Fulvic Bloom started for us. Always seeking a better product. We are thrilled with it's results in our Fert Service, Our customers are thrilled, and give us lots of referrals!

We can fill up our tank with the mix, and apply it to EVERYTHING! Lawns, Gardens, (flowers and veggies) Trees, Shrubs, Ornamentals, SOIL being prepped for use, we sell quarts to our customers for houseplants, so do some of the other fert guys, as we give them a good deal on the quarts. We are NOT just SELLING it. We use it EVERY DAY. We get new distributers carrying the product all the time, and it's growing due to it's performance.

So we know what it has to offer to the professional.

 

I thought I would post a few pics as some of the people on this site like to put down other company's products even if they haven't tried it. Here are just a few of the many results we have seen with Fulvic Bloom. It really only makes sense that you try a product before you go on the attack. I suppose those of you who are attacking us and our product will be the first to go after this post.

Dense green grass from seed in under 3 weeks!

I only sprayed the left side of this daisy bush once, these are the results after only 10 days.
http://greenwayspray.com/images/proof/daisy copy.jpg

After 1 treatment and a few weeks time the scaling on this pine tree is totally gone.
http://greenwayspray.com/images/proof/pine copy.jpg

From almost dead to new sprouts everywhere in under 3 weeks!
http://greenwayspray.com/images/proof/spruce copy.jpg

Homeowner wanted me to pull this Weeping Cherry until I gave it a Fulvic Bloom treatment. The left (before) pic was taken in the middle of July. The right hand pic was taken at the end of August.
http://greenwayspray.com/images/proof/cherry copy.jpg

Vegetables planted the same day with a quality soil. The Fulvic Bloom vegetables have grown at a much faster rate.
http://greenwayspray.com/images/proof/vegitables copy.jpg

 

Cash, Does your customer have irrigation? And be careful with the low mowing it can sometimes lead to greater weed pressure especially if done too early in the spring.

 

AS grasssales says, the low mowing can increase the weeds. So IF you are not de thatching, Or are not aerating and over-seeding, you would not want to mow too low. The seedlings need light, and you don't want to shade them too much. Otherwise don't mow too low, that a good point, I'm glad grasssales mentioned that.

 

Recommended cutting heights for centipede is 1/2 - 2". Vary the cutting height based on environment, site conditions, area use, and any other cultural/management constraints.