riggle / tombo... i have to confess, i was a bit aprehensive about tombo's suggestion to apply pre-m to the entire lawn....and then scratch up the area(s) that need seed. however, riggle...you seem to support his approach so i'm opening up to the idea. my initial thought is if i apply a pre-m to the entire lawn and then prep the areas needing seed, a good rain (or several) would cause the pre-m to wash or leech into my new seed thereby preventing germination. if i was just seeding one concentrated area needing repair, i could see trying to isolate/eliminate that area from my pre-m application so i wouldn't worry about rain washing over and contaminating the seeded area. however, the repairs that are needed seem to be scattered throughout and not easily isolated or confined. wouldn't this be reason enough to forego the pre-m 'this spring' and simply concentrate on seeding early spring or even later should i need a 're-do'. i think i could take my chances with some crabgrass infestation in my 'unprotected lawn' because it's already pretty thick. as i said, i do have an irrigation system so heat/drought conditions isn't a big concern for new seedlings. ultimately, i totally agree with the idea that a thick lawn provides little room for weeds/crabgrass. at least this is my goal. as for my neighbor's (a relative) lawn, i can completely agree with all the suggestions that have been thrown out in previous replies. the plan is starting to become clear. on the topic of using good 'disease resistant' seed with a good blend of kbg, i think my original stand of grass was 'premium atheletic' from lesco....which i thought was a pretty good blend. however, FOR ME, it hasn't been terribly resistant from the 5 fungus types mentioned as i have battled with some or all each of the 4 years since it's start. i'm sure, part of the problem is with the idiot who maintain's it (tee-hee). this season, for my lawn, i'm going to try several new strategies such as: (a) 'spoon feed' fert schedule because my WALKER GHS is robbing me of important nutrient$ - clipping$, (b) mowing a little shorter than my usual 3 1/2" - 4" length during the hot and very humid months so the lawn won't maintain high moisture and breed fungus (c) apply fungicide at the proper rate/intervals and quit worrying about the cost, (d) incorporate a better, more disease resistant seed. i think i've already developed good watering/irrigation practices so that shouldn't be an issue. it's a bear trying for the perfect lawn!!!