1. Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
    Catch up on the conversation about fertilization strategies for success with the experts at Koch Turf & Ornamental in the Fertilizer Application forum.

    Dismiss Notice

Converting to a pump

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by Southern Sky, Feb 29, 2008.

  1. Southern Sky

    Southern Sky LawnSite Member
    from Georgia
    Messages: 13

    My residential irrigation system is currently connected to city provided water. In Georgia, we are in the midst of a total outdoor watering ban (from city provided water sources) and I am lucky enough to have a 2 foot deep creek at the back of my property. I own to the middle of the creek bed and current Georgia law allows me to draw water from creek. With all of this said, I am looking at the feasibility of installing a pump that will supply my irrigation system only (house will remain connected to city water). I was hoping that some of you pump experts could help me select a pump...

    Here are the specifics:
    My irrigation system has four zones (3 rotor zones @ 15 gpm and 1 drip zone @ 4 gpm) run on 1" main line (1" valves) and 1" laterals. All four zone valves are in the same location set-up as a manifold. From the point where water would be drawn from the creek to the manifold set-up, there is a distance of 200' linear and 30' of elevation change (the manifold is 30' higher than the creek bed). There is a 10' lift from the creek bed to where I would like to put the pump and then a 20' elevation change on the discharge side of the pump. I would like the pump to be 50' linear away from the creek bed, which would leave 150' linear on the discharge side to the valve manifold. I would like to have about 50-55 psi at the valve manifold in order to get good pressure to the rotors. I was looking at the 1.5 hp Goulds jet pump, but I am not sure if it will work or not.

    (1) Is there a pump that will meet my needs?
    (2) I have read a lot about pump cycling and with a range of 4gpm to 15gpm usage, is this going to be a problem?
    (3) Will I need to install a pressure tank as well?

    Thank you in advance for your help. If you need more specific information, I can provide.
  2. AI Inc

    AI Inc LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 26,998

    The closer the pump is to the water source the better. Pumps are made to push water not pull it.
    I would consider a goulds j15.
    With that big of a differance in gpm by zone I would install a pressure tank.
    Dont just jump on my advice , listen to others and make your own decision.
  3. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 50,581

    The Goulds J15S pump is about as good as you can get. Don't skimp on the pipe sizes for the inlet and outlet. Keep the suction lift as low as practical.
  4. Sigman

    Sigman LawnSite Member
    Messages: 12

    Check the pump curve on the specs to match your total feet of head on the system. One foot of head equals about a half pound of pressure. As for the pressure tank. You will need a large enough tank that the pump will not be cycling on and off too often because of pressure build up. 33gal or more. You may also consider a Cycle stop valve that will regulate the discharge flow regardless of the total output. (Then you can wash down the kids or the dog with the ditch water out of the hose. They won't know the difference!)It allows the pump to run constantly. Ive used these on deep well applications. Works great. From 5gpm to 110gpm. Or use a pump start relay and let it run. Also make sure the size of power wire to the pump is sufficient for the length and voltage. 230v single phase I presume? A filter before the spray heads might be a good idea depending on what type of suction you are using. And remember, let's have fun!

Share This Page