Coral Bark Maple--Split Limbs

Discussion in 'Tree Climbing, Pruning, Felling' started by Guest, Feb 19, 2013.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest
    Messages: 0

    Not a problem, glad to help. The only problem with cabling a young (small tree) is you are encouraging the defect to remain without getting any better. Included bark, such as you are discribing, is normally caused by two leaders of equal (or close) size both growing at about the same rate. To make the situation better I have found it is best to slow one down (through proper pruning). This will allow one to overtake the other making for a better union. And the bolts will be there to assist. Now depending on how far it is from the crotch to the top will determine if temporary canopy support is needed. Temporary = non-invasive. No sence in harming the tree long term for a short term gain.

    Well lunch is over gotta go. will share more later
  2. Guest

    Guest Guest
    Messages: 0

    stansoph without seeing a picture it is very difficult to perscribe a solution to your problem. I will give it a stab though. From what it sounds you have a relitively young tree with a serious defect that needs to be corrected. First thing is first, you never want to remove callus wood (scab) from a wound or area. Even if it means you will not get the crotch completely closed. I will explain later why it is not a huge deal. Next the support system you are describing was last used when cave men were around :D, it is very out dated and harmful. What your objective is, is to close the gap at the crotch, and that must be done at the crotch (you can use temporary help above to close, but not perminant). This accomplished but adding bracing rods through the crotch area to support the weekend union. Now sizing and placement of these is critical to big = stress on the tree, too small they wont hold, wrong placement could make it even worse. Now once this is complete you have mitigated the defect. But you are not done yet, when thinking about the long term health of the tree. It needs to be pruned now.

    I am out of time, I have to go to work, but if you share pictures and a few measurements I will help you through this. Also if you look in the picutres section, you will find a large linden bracing I did this last summer. That should give you a large scale idea of what you are looking at. But please dont follow the sizing and placement (that was an extremely large tree) there are standards that will say sizing and placement. Thanks catch up with you later.
  3. Guest

    Guest Guest
    Messages: 0

    stansoph, you may want to check your Private messages. Sent you an email address and a question. Digging a bit deaper, I was not as farmiliar with the species of maple and I found its is a small tree to begin with (sounds like its pretty much mature size). those pictures would be cool to see. Being of mature size significant reduction pruning to one side is probably not the best option. There are very cool options though if this is the case. Thanks
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest
    Messages: 0

    Thank you for the quick reply flying squirrel. I looked at the pictures of the Linden that you braced; very nice. I hope I don't need ten bolts of bracing. lol. I will get some pics up for you today so you can have a more detailed look. I hadn't thought about the bracing technique. Will the tree still need support with cables(s). I guess you will have a better idea with pictures to see the actual wound. Thanks again for you volunteering your time and knowledge.

    Will post pics soon.
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest
    Messages: 0

    Hello. I am a Lawnsite member and LCO. I have a dilemma.

    In my personal yard I have a 25'-- 7" caliper Coral Bark Maple with a split at the "Y" of two main limbs. The split is roughly 12 inches long and running pretty close to vertical. The limbs are approx. 4" in dia. and are originating from the main trunk. The lower part of the split is starting to progress into the trunk abut 2"-3". The split has scabbed over about 6" of the split from the start of the split towards the area of new damage. I plan on using light cable and turn buckles in two different places to prevent any further damage. With the cables, I can cinch up the turn buckles to close the gap in the split.

    The split has scabbed over about 6" of the split; from the start of the split towards the area of new damage. I plan on making the cable supports a permanent part of the tree to prevent further damage. There is no evidence of the wound weeping sap in the area.

    My question is: Should I scrape the area that has scabbed over and draw the limbs together to aid in healing further up the split? Leave the scabbed area and only support the slit without closing the gap? Close the gap as is and leave the area as is?

    The tree overall is in extremely good health and doesn't appear to be in any stress because of the injury.

    This is one of my favorite trees and is priceless as far as replacement is concerned. Too large and definitely too expensive.

    I might call an arborist to have a look to see what could/should be done.
    The tree is worth that much to me.

    Any thoughts or ideas?

    Thanks for the help.

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