Crabgrass Killer

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by D-Man, Feb 6, 2001.

  1. D-Man

    D-Man LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    Has anyone had any experience with the new Crabgrass killer that allows spring turf seeding? I think it's a post emergent spray.
  2. bob

    bob LawnSite Platinum Member
    from DE
    Messages: 4,260

    Are you talking about "Drive". It was something like $85 a bottle at Lesco. I didn't but it.
  3. lawnboy53

    lawnboy53 LawnSite Member
    from Neb
    Messages: 69

    I've used Drive for post emergent problems for the last 2 years, it works great. It will knockout big crabgrass and foxtail, use a sticker with it also. Have not tried it on new seed in the spring, check the label.
  4. GreenQuest Lawn

    GreenQuest Lawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 822

    Drive is great! havent tried it for seed but it is supposed to have about a two week residual effect. its also compatible with alot of other products so you can mix with your normal product and we have found it gives better results on most weeds.
  5. D-Man

    D-Man LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    Thanks for the info. The stuff I briefly read about in a KSU extension report is Tupersan (siduron).
  6. This is the product you would use when reseeding in the spring. It does not harm to the "good" grass.
  7. Mscotrid

    Mscotrid LawnSite Bronze Member
    from USA
    Messages: 1,456

    Tupersan is overpriced and has a short residual. You would be better off to get your seed in the ground as early as possible and after germination come back in with Dimension.

    Dimension has pre-post emergent control
  8. This is really bad advice. You need to go and read the label.

    Exactly where did you get your pesticide license?

    In a Cracker Jack box?
  9. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,969

    From the Dimension label: "This product may be used on seeded, sodded, or sprigged lawns and ornamental turfs that are well established. The grass must have developed a good root system and a uniform stand, and have received at least two mowings following its seeding, sodding or sprigging before it can receive its first application of this product."

    When establishing a new lawn in any climate prone to crabgrass, in the germination time frame of crabgrass, it is better to prevent the growth of the weed, rather than try to play catchup after it has germinated. For each crabgrass plant germinated, a number of desireable grass plants are smothered or not allowed to germinate. While a number of post emergent products are available, using this strategy can result in a weak stand of grass.

    Tupersan is a trade name for the active ingredient siduron, which has been the only pre-emergent control for crabgrass in a new seeding for many years. Cost is truly 2-3 times most other preemergents, and only effective for 30 days, so in warmer climates repeat applications may be necessary. However when the success of the seeding can be dramatically increased by 1 or 2 applications, this is an economic step to take.

    In our area, a spring seeding in a crabgrass prone setting will usually need just one application of siduron to allow for good start of the turf. Of course the siduron application is not made until prime germination time in our area, after the fading of lilac blossoms. For us to seed April 1 and apply siduron at the time of seeding would be a waste of product - by the time crabgrass germinates the chemical is well on its way to being ineffective.

    Another problem with other preemergents after a new seeding is that almost all pre-ems, with the exception of Ronstar - which can only be used on commercial and golf turf - are root inhibitors. We will not even use any other than siduron as a pre-em in a lawn seeded last fall, in order to enhance root growth. It is my experience that use of root inhibiting pre-ems, even on recently sodded lawns, reduces rooting dramatically.
  10. Mscotrid

    Mscotrid LawnSite Bronze Member
    from USA
    Messages: 1,456


    I take great exception towards your post. I'm not sure how you run your your business in Pennsylvania but I can tell you here in Kansas this procedure works rather well.

    I can seed lawns in Feb/March depending on weather and by the time the annual grasses rear there head June/July our lawns are growing quite aggressivly. I can come back in with Dimension and have terrific results. I have not seen any root inhibitation as touched by the "groundskeeper". I'm not saying that does not happen, I just hav'nt had any problems. Try not to be to harsh about something you might not be familiar with.

    One thing I have learned about this industry, There are 100 ways of doing something and 99 of them are probably correct.

    Let me ask you a question? have you ever sprayed round-up over the top of junipers? Have you ever used Round-up as a controled growth regulator?

    Good luck to all of you with your seeding efforts

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