Cub 33" drive cable workaround.

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by dishboy, Jun 14, 2009.

  1. dishboy

    dishboy LawnSite Fanatic
    from zone 6
    Messages: 6,040

    With 49 hours on my Widecut 33 the drive cable where it mounts on the handle bar started to fray. I knew this was going to be a issue and no way was I going to be into a new cable every 50 hours so I robbed the Bell crank, Bell crank support and rods that ran the blade engage off a old duel idler Exmark Viking. While I was at I rotated the handle to the other side of the bar and disabled the brake that locks the tranny if you release the drive without the blades running which was a major inconvenience. Big improvement in ergonomics and operator comfort!


  2. dishboy

    dishboy LawnSite Fanatic
    from zone 6
    Messages: 6,040

    I guess there's not to many cub owners eh?
  3. greenred

    greenred LawnSite Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 916

    Nice ingenuity
  4. Richard Martin

    Richard Martin LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,699

    Why did you buy such a lightweight mower?

    I mean, that a nice job you did upgrading it and all.
  5. kaferhaus

    kaferhaus LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,444

    Actually I (the champion of ONLY buying commercial equipment) just bought (stole) one of these used with 12hrs on it. The reason being is we have a few residentials with large back yards that only have a 36" gate that has required 2 guys with 21" mowers to cut it in order to keep up with the guy on the ztr doing the front yards. Now all three guys are getting finished cutting at about the same time which has cut 10 minutes off of those jobs as all three can then go to trimming, edging and blowing at about the same time.

    The mower leaves a good cut, is faster than any 21" walk behind both in area cut per pass and ground speed. It is NOT a commercial grade mower but is constructed better than the average residential mower and with the limited use we'll be putting it through should last a few years. I paid half of what a new Honda 216 would have cost.

    I'd like to see more pictures of your modifications to this mower... the top mounted handles are a PITA and make the machine a bit awkward to operate. In fact my first thoughts were on moving the controls under the bar. I did not realize it had a transmission brake at all.... that's likely the other isssue with manuverability. Pulling the machine backwards without shifting it into reverse is a PITA. Did your disconnecting of this cable solve that issue?

    I'd appreciate any other mods or solutions you come up with. I've only bought this thing last week from a guy who started up a service and quickly found out he couldn't compete (IE: wasn't as easy as he thought it would be).
  6. Jason Rose

    Jason Rose LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,858

    dishboy: Great upgrade! That's how they SHOULD come from the factory. Looks just like the old design troybilt used now. I know the mower will be 100% easier to run now.

    Also, the old machines just had a brake for the drive on the same lever that also was the blade kill lever. It worked well as a brake and to move the machine with the blades off you just hold down that presence control.
  7. TomberLawn

    TomberLawn LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,299

    I'm starting to have the same problem with mine. It's got about 50 hrs, I think. The hour meter is no good anymore, because I put a pull start on and just turned the key switch to ON. Friday, the cable end on the drive cable starting cracking and pulled out. I flipped it to the other side of the handle and it works ok for now, but I need to do something to it.

    I'm just wondering, how hard is it to grip the lever with it on the bottom side? I like them being on top so I can just use the weight of my arms to hold them down and not really grip the handles that hard. It seems like the levers are pretty tight.
  8. kaferhaus

    kaferhaus LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,444

    I'm thinking the spings can be either loosened up or swapped out with lower tension springs. The spring tension is likely what's destroying the cables to begin with.
  9. dishboy

    dishboy LawnSite Fanatic
    from zone 6
    Messages: 6,040

    This machine has two cables, shown on my picture that go from the drive lever and blade lever to a disk brake on the tranny. So put it in high gear to transport or load with out the blades running and release the drive and the machine comes to a ABRUPT stop. I hated this feature so I pulled the drive brake cable all the way out and wire tied. I may use a clamp instead or bailing wire on the actual arm . Since I do not think this machine is suited to hills and it does not run away otherwise I see no reason in my application for this feature.
  10. dishboy

    dishboy LawnSite Fanatic
    from zone 6
    Messages: 6,040

    Spring tension does not seem to be great, I think that melting lead over cable in the shape they do is the issue. Selling cables every 50 hours to naive users is not bad for a company's profits. `

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