I built a pull plow this fall. It has worked really well, and i was able to save myself $ 2000.00. Anyways it lifts up higher than the daniels pull plow, has both down pressure, and float mode. Building a pull plow is easy there isn't much to them, untill ya try to make them angle or have a trip edge. My pull plow has boxed sides and doesn't angle or trip. I wouldn't attempt to build a front plade or a sander to go on a truck. I might build a plow to fit on a very small tractor.<p>Geoff
The rear plow we now use costs 1600.00 installed. Powder-Coated. And this thing makes a Daniels/Snowman look like a Fisher-Price plow. No hydraulics. (We use Clutch-Pump Systems.)<p>I didn't know other reap plow manufacturers were so expensive.<p>Also, we used to build our own front plows using the Meyer design before we used Boss plows. It's really fairly simple, it's just so time consuming when you don't fabricate full time.
Ebling & Co. here in Michigan, he sells them all over the state. He installs a new rear bumper on your truck and then this plow. It's a quick-disconnect to release the plow and I'm more than satified with it. <p>A hitch reciever would not be an adequate platform in which to mount a rear plow the way we use them. (diplomatic version)<p>I must add that this does price not include the hydraulics. I think they put on a Monarch or Barnes electric pump/valves for another 700.00 or so.
Well, if you catch anything on the outside edge of the plow (even something small, like uneven concrete) you have all that leverage on only 1 center point. You easily twist the hitch sideways.<p>Furthermore, a pick-up (or 1 ton) plow truck weighs 6-11,000 lbs. with all equipment. There isn't a Class III receiver that can withstand a shock-load with that potential weight/speed.<p>I've actually never tried to plow with one, (a hitch-only mount) but based on all the different back-plows I've seen since 1975 (almost everyone in my area has a rear plow) and all the ones I've seen come apart, any receiver-only attachment just wouldn't hold up. I suppose a more conservative plowing approach would help.<p>We've also saw plows that have the cylinder attached in the reese hitch and 2 more reese inserts connected with a bracket on the back of each frame rail that spread the shock over a larger area. Those seem to hold up okay.<p>I thought the hitches we only rated at 500-1000 lb. tounge weight. A rear plow downpressure will support the weight of the back of the truck (30-40% or that 6-11,000) and when you go over uneven ground will pick the rear tires off the ground. (We had one that picked the back tires off on level ground - had to adjust it) <p>Anyway, I feel that's just WAY too much (potential) stress to put on one point of 2"x2" of 3/8" tube steel.<p>
I recently converted an old early 80's western plow to to the newer uni-mount set-up. I ended up modifying the old a-frame to make it wider, and also had to weld on tabs for the uni-mount style lift frame. It actually went pretty smoothly, and is working fine. The only downside is that I am using the cable operated pump, so I don't have the advantages of being able to pull the electrical plugs, and easily disconnecting the set-up. Nevertheless, it saved me a lot of $$.
Our volunteer F.D. recently aquired an old meyer 8' 4 spring plow with no pump, mount,or hydrulic lines.They were concerned about the cost of putting the plow in working order. Our mechanic, a very clever guy, said he could do it...and did. He set up the hydrulic system in a unique way. He got a hydrulic valve, with two 2way levers. A ram unit, and a power steering pump; a standard unit. I and everyone else was amazed at how well it works. The cost was almost nothing but a little labor intensive. After winter is over, I will post any problems that developed, and the corrections made. It is a trick unit.