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Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by DanaMac, Jan 28, 2009.
No swing joint?
That'd be a b*tch to repair!
You forgot to mention SCH40 fittings into metal and no unions.
The one I most wish I had a photo of was a homemade popup body for a brass impact head. It was welded together from thick-wall aluminum tubing and plate.
Wow, there's one no-one thought of - need a quick valve box? Cut the bottom out of your Irribucket.
Teflon tape instead of paste on pump connections
Paste instead of tape on valves
NO wire connectors on solenoids
Greenskeeper - used to have a friend whose mantra was "do the math"
NO conduit on control wire, just tack it to wall
Rain sensor mounted on PVC pipe in watering area
No concrete pad under pump - wood or dirt
Sleeves installed at bottom of concrete so you have to 90 up into them
Water meter boxes poking several inches up from grade
Backflows in middle of lawn
Rotors on risers in plant beds
Rotors throwing into corners with no spray to pick up the slack
Jumbo boxes with (2) 1" valves in them - no names mentioned
Rotors on risers in beds? Get thee to a Texas exam. Impact heads on risers do yeoman work in all sorts of applications.
Not impacts, not shrub bodies - pop-up rotors on risers so they can shoot over plants and get some turf. You forget - this is Florida irrigation
Have you seen how well a 5' riser bends when a rotor is working on top of it, and it's not attached to a wall or fence? Pretty funny.
Not if you use the CSR method.
Hmmm, not something I see much of, but I have included a hidden hipop rotor in a shrub, when it was otherwise going to stick out like the proverbial thumb. Beyond impacts, and Toro 300 stream rotors, you don't get much close-in watering from a popup rotor on a riser.
I've used hi-pops (12") in beds also, especially liriope or jasmine, but I'm talking about regular 4" pops on white risers above the plants.