Cutting pavers - lay soldier row before or after cutting

[steveair]

Hello,<p>With other conversations going on, I wanted to try to get on some 'level' ground here and see how you guys lay your walks/patios out.<p>When I do a job, I usually do this.<p>After base prep, I get the base leveled perfectly where I want it and then set up my edging on top of the base. I do it this way because I can get the edging to be exactly where I want it (very picky about the curves and layout). After that, I set my pipes inbetween the edging and screed a inch of stone dust. works good because I can cut a 2x4 to fit perfectly between edging. This usually leaves about a inch of edging still for the the paver to catch on.<p>Next, I lay the solder row along the side of the edging, then snap my string line, and then lay my pattern in between. <p>When I get all the pavers in that will fit without cutting, I then begin to do my cutting. I do this by handmarking each brick and cutting it with tub saw to fit along the edges between the pattern and the soldier course. <p>This basically describes my method. <p>Am I nuts for doing it this way. I've tried other ways, but just don't seem to be as happy with overall results. <p>Just seeing how you guys do it.<p>steveair

 

[paul]

Steve it works great if you have that option of using your own edging but some times we have poured concrete as our edge, have not found a concrete guy to pour a straight edge yet most times we just screen out our 1&quot; of sandcenter up our pavers and run the pattern wild. then cut the pavers with a hand saw so the border fits they are marked with a paver marker from Probst/Pave Tech. <p>----------<br>paul<br>

 

[Stonehenge]

I don't want to get into a debate about sand in base prep, so I won't respond to that part of your post. But I will say that when it comes to cutting straight lines and curves, I'm much happier now that I 'let the pattern go wild' as Lanelle put it in another post, then mark the whole walk, and buzz through it with a 12&quot; Partner. As Paul had said in another post, you're cutting multiple brick at the same time. What this does is assures you have a smooth transition from one cut brick to the next. When you mark and cut each one, you might cut one just a hair to the left of your mark, the next just a hair to the right, and you're left with a jagged line of cuts when you're done. This way you're guaranteed a smooth line. It's light years faster (just did a 120 sq ft walk on Friday, 3' wide, very curvy. Cut 97% of cuts in 10 minutes. The other 3% were cut using the 2 tub saws, done in 10-15 minutes). I used to do it the way you mention, too. Working alone a 400 sqft patio would take me a full day, if not a little more. Going back to speed vs waste, waste is much higher this way - we burned up 20 sq ft of brick in waste. However, the time we saved more than paid for the brick, and allowed us to move on to another project faster, and start making money there.

 

[Alan]

OK,, dumb newbie strikes again! I can see the speed benefit of cutting wth a quickie saw. How do you get the bricks to stay in place so you can cut them? On first look it would appear to me that the bricks would have to set on top of the edging and would tend to bind and move as you cut.

Second dumb question: Mention was made of soldier courses. Could you explain that term? What I think this is is the outer row on each side being set with the short end to the edging and parallel with each other. Curves would result in tapered gaps between bricks. Is this correct? The pattern would be centered between the soldier courses?

Again, how do you hold the bricks in place to cut along the soldier course?

Something just hit me as I was reading another post, I was assuming that edging all had the inner flat that the bricks rest on. Apparently there is another style that has no inner lip so it could be installed after the pavers were installed and cut?

So much to learn,, and just when I thought I knew it all.

 

[paul]

Alan you bricks are tight you mark them then score line with the saw about 1/8" deep not using alot of pressure, then go back over them finishing the cut. we like to make multiple passes not using a lot of pressure this keeps the blade cool and prolongs it's life.

 

[Lanelle]

Edging that is L-shaped can be turned 'in' or 'out'. The benefit to turning the L 'out' is being able to install it last and also the spike heads don't sit high under the pavers. Some edging is triangle shaped, so placement is obvious. Just be certain to get one that is flexible enough for your curves but rigid enough not to deform along the top edge before you set it in place. Keeping it out of the hot sun helps.

 

[kris]

Steveair... try the method tha Stonhenge explained ..you will be amazed at time saved...you may be able to use some of the waste for other cuts that you can't do with this method.


Allan... soldier course is the border course. The saw may bind when you get to a tight curve so you take those bricks out and cut them seperately... they are already "scored" as Paul explained so your mark will be perfect. Yes your soldier course on a curve will have tampered gaps...you can cut these also if needed.

Paul... I am interested in the marker you spoke of ...more info please.. I also agree that you should not put pressure on the saw...I let the weight of the saw do the work.

Lanelle ....curious...have you ever used the L shaped edging any other way but "out".

 

[paul]

Kris here's the link http://www.pavetech.com/newtools/quckdraw.shtm

 

[Guido]

Like I've said before, you don't see much of a soldier row being used anywhere around these parts. We just run the pattern from curb to the other boarder or boarder to boarder. Its actually a lot more time consuming because you have no choice but to pull the bricks and cut one by one in a tub saw.

Lannelle, Paul, Stone, and Steve will tell you how long it took to get me to realize how they could cut it with a hand saw!! I couldn't visualize it because I was used to not using a soldier row. I still remember how good it felt to figure it out after Paul had to send me pictures!!

They still haven't let me use any kind of flexible edging yet. Still have to install concrete boarders (for now) but I'm going to try again in the spring!



P.S. : I don't want to start the sand / stonedust debate here either, but I can't wait for someone to in another thread. I'd like to go over that one again!

 

[paul]

Guido this tool might make it easier on you http://www.pavetech.com/newtools/p_scribe.shtm
It's not going to let you cut the pavers with a hand saw but marking them is going to be easy.