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cv18s Kohler

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by tal320, Sep 10, 2006.

  1. tal320

    tal320 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    Bought a 1995 Wheel horse 246h cheap. Runs and cuts on full throttle but some smoke.

    Did std stuff to get down to one cyliner at 150-180 PSI, other cylinder at 0. Removed valve covers and the appear to function ok. Dont think a valve is stuck. Dead cylinder has piston at top of head but does slide if pushed with screw driver via plug hole. In process of removing engine.

    1 - Have not replaced a piston or rings before. Once i have the bottom apart will i need to remove the heads to replace the connector rod, piston or rings?

    2 - Do i need to do both cylinders or is the 150-180psi one ok?

    Hoping to make the :confused: horse run a long time.
  2. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Yes the head must be removed, The piston has to come out the top.
    You should go here; http://www.kohlerengines.com/index.jsp and down-load a PDF Service Manual to properly repair this engine.

    And I would suggest going ahead and installing new rings in the other cylinder just so they don't go out anytime soon.

    Good Luck
  3. pugs

    pugs LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,025

    1. You will not get the bottom apart without pulling the heads. The pistons will come out the top.

    2. I would do both if you want long life. Honestly I would look into a shortblock or new engine.

    However depending on when that Kohler was made...Some of the older ones did not have iron liners. They had iron impregnated into the aluminum. These ones cannot be be bored out as much. Even if they could...its borderline wether to just break down and get a new engine. Depends where you live as far as the labor costs go. Here it just doesnt make sense...
  4. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Am I missing something here ? Care to elaborate pugs ?
  5. khouse

    khouse LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,465

    are you saying that in the bad cylinder your piston does not move when you turn the engine over?
  6. tomo

    tomo LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 660

    hello, leak down test?
    1/any way"0" compression can be as a result of carbon coming loose when plugs r removed and then lodging under valve.
    2/you did a compression test dry type and not accurate enough..
    ,one cylinder at a time ,remove plug and reinstall back into lead and
    earth to engine block.
    Crank the engine the same amount of time 4 each cylinder u will hear /feel the compression on comp guage. Prefer screw in type guage.
    3/ wet comp test will seal up rings but not valves. Remove guage after dry test and squirt 3or 4 pumps from your oil can into cylinder ,then retest, if comp comes up u have bad rings.
    4/ALWAYS CRANK THE ENG THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIMES 4 EACH CYLINDER. ACCURACY!!!!!!!! Greater than 10-15% diff in readings can mean eng problems and nessesitate a repair or o/haul.
    5/ rebuild the complete engine both cylinders
  7. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Thats what I gathered when said he could push the piston down with a screw driver :confused:
  8. khouse

    khouse LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,465

    tomo - that's what i didn't understand about the post. it seemed like he was saying that the piston only moved when he pushed on it. we know that would be a connecting rod. so i asked him if the piston moved when the crank is rotated. i guess we will see.
  9. pugs

    pugs LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,025

    If you want the pistons out...I figured he would want to completely pull it apart. I would consider rods/pistons part of the bottom end.
  10. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Gotcha, I looked at it as not being able to remove the crank, cam etc. without removing the heads, pistons and rods, I have replaced a few bent cranks without removing the heads.

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