Deep Fried Scag Mower Deck Spindles

pjm123a

LawnSite Member
Location
FL
A few years ago my Scag Tiger Cub caught fire and was pretty much completely destroyed. With some help from a donor mower that had been in a highway wreck I rebuilt the burned mower. Between the 2 of them I have accumulated a fair collection of spare parts. I am currently going through the mower spindles originally on the burned mower. One spindle was OK but on the other 2 the bearings were toast. It is nearly impossible to spin the shafts. I have read the threads in here about how it is not worth rebuilding the spindles as new ones are not that much. Still I could not see tossing these heavy duty OEM spindles because of some seals and bearings. So I am trying my hand a rebuilding them. If this works I will end up with some usable spares instead of some junk that just takes up space. I am planning on using just hand tools as I don't have a press. Will report back how things go.

IMG_0453.jpg
 

ericg

LawnSite Silver Member
Remember, Scag had two different spindle designs. One had sealed bearings and the other utilized tapered roller bearings. As BigFish has eluded to in previous threads, if you have tapered roller bearings in your spindle, you have to preload them when reassembling. That is why those spindles have crush sleeves.
 

BigFish

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
chesapeake, va
That is why those spindles have crush sleeves.
Actually, they don't have crush sleeves.
If you look at the parts cut in the pic, you will see a ring that is part of #37. Fits on the spindle just below #42 in the pic. That is what sets the pre-load or clearance, when you buy a "set".
When using individual parts, sometimes ya gotta add a shim or sand down the spacer#42 or ring#37. Takes patience and time to get em right. Even using a factory preset "set" you should check the clearances/pre-load.
I always pre-assemble the unit bone dry and check the clearances.
 

ericg

LawnSite Silver Member
Actually, they don't have crush sleeves.
If you look at the parts cut in the pic, you will see a ring that is part of #37. Fits on the spindle just below #42 in the pic. That is what sets the pre-load or clearance, when you buy a "set".
When using individual parts, sometimes ya gotta add a shim or sand down the spacer#42 or ring#37. Takes patience and time to get em right. Even using a factory preset "set" you should check the clearances/pre-load.
I always pre-assemble the unit bone dry and check the clearances.
BigFish, thank you for the clarification. I always call that specer a crush sleeve since it is potentially used to set clearance.
 
OP
P

pjm123a

LawnSite Member
Location
FL
Finally got around to finishing this up. Attached are some pics. It all went back together fairly easily. Some large size sockets come in handy for banging in bearings and seals. The only thing I messed up a bit on was the top seal. I pounded it in a bit too far. It should sit flush with the top of the housing but I got a little carried away and it sits lower than it should. I probably have enough spare spindles to last for a while now :)

IMG_0482.jpg


IMG_0483.jpg


IMG_0484.jpg
 

Red Riley

LawnSite Member
Location
Kountze, Texas
Actually, they don't have crush sleeves.
If you look at the parts cut in the pic, you will see a ring that is part of #37. Fits on the spindle just below #42 in the pic. That is what sets the pre-load or clearance, when you buy a "set".
When using individual parts, sometimes ya gotta add a shim or sand down the spacer#42 or ring#37. Takes patience and time to get em right. Even using a factory preset "set" you should check the clearances/pre-load.
I always pre-assemble the unit bone dry and check the clearances.
I took mine apart and removed the ring and built another ring with a smaller gauge wire and they run a very long time!
 
Top