Deere Z950R vs. Z920M Purchase Advice

newEngland330

LawnSite Member
Hello,

Thanks for welcoming me to the site. I have a question I am looking to buy a Deere Zero turn mower. I have the following two used machines that I am looking at, both from a JD dealer with new warrantees (3 year 1500 hr):
Used Z950R with 450 hours, MOD 60" deck
vs.
Almost Brand New Z920M with 50 hours, Regular 54" deck.

The difference in price is about 2k. With the Z950R being more expensive. Both machines have the blower bagging system.

Is the increase in price worth the increase in HP (23 vs 27), MOD deck, and added hydraulics differences blade break, deck lift, cross flow hydraulics?

I am looking for peoples opinions on pro's and con's on either of these two machines.

Thanks for the input!
 

Nwatson99

LawnSite Member
Location
Winchester, Ky
Hello
I would pass on the MOD deck unless you are a commercial mower and mow smaller tracts of land.
The 950R is a very nice mower and I would have recommended it without hesitation, but JD has problems with the MOD deck.
Here is my topic where I had to return my 960R and get a new 960R due to the MOD deck.
 

southerntide

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Alabama
Definitely get the 7 Iron nothing regular about it one of if not the best deck out there :waving:
 
OP
N

newEngland330

LawnSite Member
Guys,

Thanks alot for the feedback and advice. Any comments on the difference in HP or hydraulics differences?

Or is it really those differences don't matter due to the negatives of the MOD deck.
 

Ridin' Green

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Michigan
This is a tough one to me, because the 950 is a lot more mower than the 920, especially with the cross ported hydros. But as mentioned, avoid the MOD like the plague.

I am the guy who made the deck shell swap from a MOD to a std Pro deck recently. I ran the MOD for 2.5 seasons on my 950A, and finally tired of all the QOC issues I had. I doubt you will ever run across anyone who played with as many different combinations of baffle position/blade style etc as I have/did.

The MOD deck is a great idea in theory, but doe not work so well in the real world. JD needs to stop doing their R&D work in FLA with the stiff, easy to cut southern turf grases there. In the north, the MOD is a complete waste of time and money.
If you do mostly flat lawns, you won't have any problem with the non cross-ported hydros, but if you have hills, then the cross-ported hydros are a really nice feature to help keep them cool and last longer. The R models have a higher top speed too (12 vs 10)

Here is a link to my thread where I made the swap-
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=427356


And here is another thread you may want to read through as well-

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=426258
 
OP
N

newEngland330

LawnSite Member
Ridin' Green,

Thanks for the reply. It looks like I am leaning towards the 920. Most of what I cut is flat, but it's fairly large 8-10 acres at a time. The grass is also pretty thick, and some areas are kind of "field" like, with pretty stiff weeds and plants etc...

In your opinion what is the advantage of the on the handle buttons to stop the blades and to raise the deck?
 

Ridin' Green

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Michigan
Ridin' Green,

Thanks for the reply. It looks like I am leaning towards the 920. Most of what I cut is flat, but it's fairly large 8-10 acres at a time. The grass is also pretty thick, and some areas are kind of "field" like, with pretty stiff weeds and plants etc...

In your opinion what is the advantage of the on the handle buttons to stop the blades and to raise the deck?

None, unless you have an injury that would otherwise prevent you from raising the deck with your foot. I am not a fan of the C&C package at all, and for several reasons. There's more electrical wiring to go wrong/cause issues down the road, I do not like shutting down a mower from high RPM's, and if you have to reach over to idle back before shutting down, the PTO knob is right there as well. IMO, the C&C is just a selling point that is unnecessary. If it were more useful for commercial cutters, more companies would come out with their own version.

I know there are a few who like the C&C, which is fine by me, but if you read here long enough, and talk to enough people who run their mower for a living, the foot operated pedal is a lot better for most for feathering over bumps, roots etc.

One thing I will say after reading your last post here, you may find yourself wishing for more power from the 920 under those circumstances. Try to demo it where you will use it before buying it. If they won't let you do that, move on.
 
OP
N

newEngland330

LawnSite Member
Ridin' Green,

Thanks for the opinion on the C&C. I am definitely a fan of keeping it simple and the less electrical things to go wrong the better. Also I can see where the foot petal does a better job for feathering than the binary up/down button.

WhiffySpark, Definitely cutting some fescue type stuff. I have 6+ acres that used to be a hayfield so I plan on brush cutting it with a tractor, and then finish mowing with the Deere.

Ridin' Green, the dealer did let my try out the Z920, which is why it has about 50 hours on it, it was kind of a demo unit. They are offering it to me at what seems like a good price a bit off new due to it being lightly used.
 

Top Forums



Top