Is it better to dethatch before overseeding or aerate? Which one gives a better seed prep?
spitfire3416
The downside of aeration in the spring is it also benefits perennial weeds in the same way it benefits existing grass roots . Your best option in spring is slit seeding.
If the lawn has heavy thatch then you may want to dethatch first.
If the lawn has heavy thatch then you may want to dethatch first.
I’m doing several de-thatch, aerate, and overseed packages for clients this spring. First year doing all three so I’ll let you know how it goes. I know fall is better; tried to tell them that and they still wanted it done this spring
Aeration in my view is faster because the machine can be driven faster. And aeration does not require that dethatch residue be removed. However, only about 2 percent of the soil is actually disturbed. You will seldom see aerator manufacturers promote their machines for the purpose of overseeding.
A dedicated overseeder like a Billygoat, Lesco or Ryan is specially designed for the purpose. And...you do not have to rake up the residue.
Of course, fall is better; do not omit starter fertilizer and apply plenty of irrigation. Top quality seed, at a high rate per thousand sqft and warm soil temperatures are critical. Application of mesotrione (Tenacity) for weeds and crabgrass is very important, too.
Some pros include annual rye--because it comes up so quick, customer satisfaction is increased.
Pre-germination of seed? Something to think about. I have not heard about anyone pre-germinating seed locally.
Of course, it is rainy, but cold in Coopersville this week. Only 20 miles west from me.
And...if you are on a low budget...
The Agri-Fab or Brinly-Hardy is an option; probably only a small percent of the seed falls into the slits. Under ideal conditions many of the seeds on top will germinate, even if not in the slits. Use more seed to compensate for less than ideal seed placement.
A dedicated overseeder like a Billygoat, Lesco or Ryan is specially designed for the purpose. And...you do not have to rake up the residue.
Of course, fall is better; do not omit starter fertilizer and apply plenty of irrigation. Top quality seed, at a high rate per thousand sqft and warm soil temperatures are critical. Application of mesotrione (Tenacity) for weeds and crabgrass is very important, too.
Some pros include annual rye--because it comes up so quick, customer satisfaction is increased.
Pre-germination of seed? Something to think about. I have not heard about anyone pre-germinating seed locally.
Of course, it is rainy, but cold in Coopersville this week. Only 20 miles west from me.
And...if you are on a low budget...
The Agri-Fab or Brinly-Hardy is an option; probably only a small percent of the seed falls into the slits. Under ideal conditions many of the seeds on top will germinate, even if not in the slits. Use more seed to compensate for less than ideal seed placement.
My thought is if you are going to seed now. The results will be poor. I wouldn’t go at 10 lbs per k with a rye fescue mix. It will be 100% rye. Just put down some perennial rye now and over seed it correctly in the fall.
I think your plan should work. I think 10 pounds per thousand sqft will work very well. Be sure to charge the customer for the needed additional seed, and explain why it is needed.
The seed bag might say use half as much seed for overseeding--I think you should ignore that. Use the full rate per thousand.
The seed knows what to do--it will germinate, (if the soil is moist) when the soil hits about 50 degrees--about the week of the first mowing. About the fourth week of April. Crabgrass will be along about 2 weeks later.
Tenacity (mesotrione) is a new special herbicide--it is friendly for grass seed--yet blocks the germination of crabgrass. Also blocks or kills a few broadleaf weeds.
Do you have clay soil in Coopersville? Remember that thousand of turds or cores will litter the landscape. Mowing may be a bit bumpy. If needed, rake or drag to help break up the cores.
The seed bag might say use half as much seed for overseeding--I think you should ignore that. Use the full rate per thousand.
The seed knows what to do--it will germinate, (if the soil is moist) when the soil hits about 50 degrees--about the week of the first mowing. About the fourth week of April. Crabgrass will be along about 2 weeks later.
Tenacity (mesotrione) is a new special herbicide--it is friendly for grass seed--yet blocks the germination of crabgrass. Also blocks or kills a few broadleaf weeds.
Do you have clay soil in Coopersville? Remember that thousand of turds or cores will litter the landscape. Mowing may be a bit bumpy. If needed, rake or drag to help break up the cores.
One problem with clay aeration is that it is difficult to penetrate if it is not fully moist.
On the other hand, in one of my tests a 2 inch deep hole had the best germination, as compared to one-inch and 3-inch. So you need more holes--not so deep.
Be sure to sow disease-resistant seed--and charge a bit more for these top quality cultivars.
I would like to see some side by side germination comparison tests. Aeration? Slit seeder? Power-rake first? Remove residue, or leave residue? Add compost? Topdress?
Very difficult research; do you get graduate students out there to count the new grass sprouts on a square foot?
Try to protect yourself from customers that do not water enough. For instance:
plant some of the seed in a coffee cup on your desk--send Ms Customer an email photo showing germination after 7 days. Drive out and check the lawn twice a week to be sure it is moist--take photos of the moisture meter reading--just in case you have to show it in court. Lend the customer your moisture meter. Maybe ask the customer to send pictures of the moisture meter reading every day.
Shove a screwdriver into the dirt--if it will not penetrate--take a picture.
On the other hand, in one of my tests a 2 inch deep hole had the best germination, as compared to one-inch and 3-inch. So you need more holes--not so deep.
Be sure to sow disease-resistant seed--and charge a bit more for these top quality cultivars.
I would like to see some side by side germination comparison tests. Aeration? Slit seeder? Power-rake first? Remove residue, or leave residue? Add compost? Topdress?
Very difficult research; do you get graduate students out there to count the new grass sprouts on a square foot?
Try to protect yourself from customers that do not water enough. For instance:
plant some of the seed in a coffee cup on your desk--send Ms Customer an email photo showing germination after 7 days. Drive out and check the lawn twice a week to be sure it is moist--take photos of the moisture meter reading--just in case you have to show it in court. Lend the customer your moisture meter. Maybe ask the customer to send pictures of the moisture meter reading every day.
Shove a screwdriver into the dirt--if it will not penetrate--take a picture.
In the PNW we mostly do lawn revovations in the spring. If a lawn has heavy moss or thatch It will need to be dethatched followed by aeration then compost topdressing/seeding or slit seeding.
If the lawn is thin we can aerated and overseed or slit seed.
If the lawn is thin we can aerated and overseed or slit seed.
The spike aerators aren't really aerating anything and a waste of money. Core aeration is best and it can be done in a crosshatch way or even 3 passes.
I would much rather put the energy, time and money to dethatch into additional aeration passes. No material to clean up but more importantly I think the benefit is much greater.
We only do a handful of aeration n seedings in the spring, with mesitrione of course. But we do over 450 jobs each fall.
We only do a handful of aeration n seedings in the spring, with mesitrione of course. But we do over 450 jobs each fall.
Probably a dumb question but-after overseeding, should you take a break from mowing that lawn for a certain amount of time? like a couple weeks? Or can you keep going on the schedule no problem?
I mow short before overseeding and then stay off it until I see good new growth. I'm never on it before 3 weeks. Rye germinates in ~7 days, Fescue in ~14 days, Bluegrass in ~28 days.
Overseeded yards last Sept: one was fescue (heavy shade), other was bluegrass (full sun). I stayed off both for 4 weeks.
Overseeded yards last Sept: one was fescue (heavy shade), other was bluegrass (full sun). I stayed off both for 4 weeks.
I will cut the grass far below suggested cut height (honestly not following the 1/3 rule at all) and aerate, then aerate, then some more aeration, and then throw in some more aeration for the heck of it.
Seeds expensive....... but time, peace of mind, and re-doing a job is even worse. So i also adhere to using more seed than suggested seeding rate. Hasn't failed me yet. If it says 6 / 1k (then i'm using 10) for example
I only go back to mowing once the existing turf reaches slightly below it's original height prior to my "super super short cut".
Some things I've learned along the way
1) seed needs contact to soil
2) seed needs moisture
3) seed needs sunlight
I also believe there is less damage done to the freshly germinated seed by mowing (either footprints or tire tracks) than having less sunlight for the "later" germinating seeds.
that's my .02
Seeds expensive....... but time, peace of mind, and re-doing a job is even worse. So i also adhere to using more seed than suggested seeding rate. Hasn't failed me yet. If it says 6 / 1k (then i'm using 10) for example
I only go back to mowing once the existing turf reaches slightly below it's original height prior to my "super super short cut".
Some things I've learned along the way
1) seed needs contact to soil
2) seed needs moisture
3) seed needs sunlight
I also believe there is less damage done to the freshly germinated seed by mowing (either footprints or tire tracks) than having less sunlight for the "later" germinating seeds.
that's my .02
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