Dirty water heads

jdmccay

LawnSite Member
Location
Colorado
This a new area I’m working on now. Different pond and pump from the one running 5 maxis.

On this area I have a 1” foot valve through 15’ of 1” pipe at 5’ head to 1” inlet and outlet on the centrifugal pump. Here’s where I need to decide between 1” and 1-1/4” pipe to run another 150’ distance and another 15’ head. From there I plan on 3-4 zones, running mostly horizontal and back down the slope.

I have read enough to know I’m going to do this by the book, so I guess trial and error is my only course of action. It’s a fun project for me, not an occupation. I know this may annoy the experts and for that I apologize, but I don’t have 5k to drop on my side yard at this time. I do however have tons of water and some ingenuity on my side!
Hey no shame in that. And I'm not annoyed don't worry about that.

So the only concern I have about your setup is that 1" is too small I think and I think you'll have way too much friction loss. But as a rule of thumb I never have an outlet larger than my inlet. The last thing you want is to pump water faster than your pump can suck in. That leads to cavitation and burned up pumps. If possible I would maybe increase the inlet size to 1.5 so that you can run your 1.25 pipe successfully. With that distance and elevation rise you should plan for around 8-10 psi loss at the highest head if you use 1.25 the whole way. That's a very high ball park estimate not knowing how many heads on a zone.
 
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LawnCruiser

LawnSite Member
Location
Connecticut
I really only need 4 heads at a time, total of 12 heads on this area but another 12-16 up near the house next year. I will step up the main line to at least 1-1/2 as suggested. My collection of pipe is really starting to pile up now and would like to get some of this in the ground before leaf season!
 
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LawnCruiser

LawnSite Member
Location
Connecticut
I stepped up from 1.25” intake to 1.5” intake. mesh wrapped the foot valve and added a 50 mesh filter to the pump outlet. This goes 120’ up hill about 15’ head through 1.25” poly to the temporary valve. Yeah, it’s a harbor freight pump but I’ve had good luck with it on the other pond. Now I have 6 pop-ups working at a time and could probably add more.

Do you think the filter is adequate for the RB5000 rotor heads?

If I want to go further up hill can I just tee off the main line or would the additional head hinder the performance of the lower heads due to higher static head?

Thanks for the advise guys.

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Sprinkus

LawnSite Silver Member
Location
San Antonio, TX
What's the TDS of the water that you are using? I have a site where the suspended solids come out of solution and plug up the filters in the bottom of gear driven rotors, usually at the ends of the zones. The rotor zones that I have converted to check valve heads have proven to require less maintenance in this regard.

On a side note, it's amazing how much better my brain works in temperatures below 90 degrees.
 
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LawnCruiser

LawnSite Member
Location
Connecticut
I haven’t tested the TDS but have been running 5000 prs rotors with check valves at the suggestion of rain bird customer service. So far so good. Do these not have filters like the non check? He couldn’t explain why but said they worked better with “dirty” water.
 

That Guy Gary

LawnSite Gold Member
Location
SW Idaho
I've never tried, it's probably not worth the effort. Here's a pic of one all gunked up by lake water. They are fairly tolerant, by the time they stop rotating the gears are probably damaged.

 
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LawnCruiser

LawnSite Member
Location
Connecticut
That’s pretty bad, I’d be interested to see what mine look like after just one season. My intake is practically sitting in mud right now. I currently have a 50 mesh screen, from what I’ve read it should be more like 100. I’ll be swapping that out next year, starting to shut down for the winter.

Kinda bummed the seasons over, I like watching the grass grow:)
 

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