Dirty water heads

Discussion in 'Spray Heads & Rotors' started by LawnCruiser, Aug 13, 2019.

  1. jdmccay

    jdmccay LawnSite Member
    Messages: 20

    Hey no shame in that. And I'm not annoyed don't worry about that.

    So the only concern I have about your setup is that 1" is too small I think and I think you'll have way too much friction loss. But as a rule of thumb I never have an outlet larger than my inlet. The last thing you want is to pump water faster than your pump can suck in. That leads to cavitation and burned up pumps. If possible I would maybe increase the inlet size to 1.5 so that you can run your 1.25 pipe successfully. With that distance and elevation rise you should plan for around 8-10 psi loss at the highest head if you use 1.25 the whole way. That's a very high ball park estimate not knowing how many heads on a zone.
    LawnCruiser likes this.
  2. OP

    LawnCruiser LawnSite Member
    Messages: 7

    I really only need 4 heads at a time, total of 12 heads on this area but another 12-16 up near the house next year. I will step up the main line to at least 1-1/2 as suggested. My collection of pipe is really starting to pile up now and would like to get some of this in the ground before leaf season!
  3. OP

    LawnCruiser LawnSite Member
    Messages: 7

    I stepped up from 1.25” intake to 1.5” intake. mesh wrapped the foot valve and added a 50 mesh filter to the pump outlet. This goes 120’ up hill about 15’ head through 1.25” poly to the temporary valve. Yeah, it’s a harbor freight pump but I’ve had good luck with it on the other pond. Now I have 6 pop-ups working at a time and could probably add more.

    Do you think the filter is adequate for the RB5000 rotor heads?

    If I want to go further up hill can I just tee off the main line or would the additional head hinder the performance of the lower heads due to higher static head?

    Thanks for the advise guys.



    Last edited: Sep 9, 2019

Share This Page